No pro mind ya, but this is my take on it as I have been there.
1.)Remove the crossover pipe (4 Bolts)....watch those eyes for falling crap
2.)Remove trans inspection cover (4 Sheet metal screws)
3.)Remove pan bolts. You will most likely have to use a small wrench on the ones behind the frame crossover member, not fun, and my favorite was the nut on the stud that the trans cooling lines are attached to the whole stud will most likely turn and not the nut, clearance is a minimum, patients is required.
The pan can be a bear to get off, turning of the crank will help get the lobs out of the way, easier with plugs out, and some have had to unbolt motor mount and jack up the motor a little to get it out.
4.)I replaced the pickup pipe, it’s cheap.
5.)I'm not sure about doing the crank bearings one at a time. I have been told to loosen all the caps to take the pressure off. They are on there at 100ft/lbs, cheater bar is good unless you are the Hulk. Use caution not to scratch the crank or bearings.
You can do a search on here and find many suggestions and most will tell you to pull the motor and do it the easy way. Most claim to be able to pull the motor in 2 hours or so. I'm guessing they have had a lot of practice and all the right stuff in place too.
They make one over and under replacements as well as straight up stock. I like the felpro cork pan gasket put a small skin coat on the pan and attach the gasket to the pan, place upside down with some weight and let it sit over night, that way that puppy will stay in place when you are fighting it back on. Read about the rear main seal proceedures also Enjoy!
http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/engine/enginepage.html
Good stuff and just about everything you need to know if ya didn't already.