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Putting engine back together after nearly 10 yrs and have some ???

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coldair85GN

fast85GN
Joined
May 29, 2001
Messages
254
Its been a long time and my memory doesn't provide the answers so I'm asking all you guys.
Engine is a built 20 bolt 3.8 with stock bore/stroke. Forged pistons, stock rods and crank, RJC girdle. Weber Racing hyd. roller cam is installed. Short block is already assembled, timing set, front cover, new oilpump are installed, girdle and oilpan are already done. I tossed around the idea of Cometic or RJC headgaskets but ultimately decided to go with standard gaskets because they are cheaper and easier to replace than the crank and rods. The ARP studs are already in the block and I'm ready to assemble the top-end. I picked up the Felpro HS9441PT head gasket set and basically wanted to know....other than cleaning of the surfaces of the block and heads...do I need any sealant to install these gaskets (I honestly don't remember even though I've done this several times in the past). Heads are factory irons (ported/polished with bigger valves). NEXT....the cam and new springs came as a set from Weber along with new pushrods and roller lifters so I am assuming I won't have any issue with changing the springs out. I bought Harland Sharpe roller rockers new and have already clearanced the pedestals for them....other than setting the lash properly can I just go ahead and install everything or are there any other things I need to consider? Finally...once I get the valvetrain squared away..I bought RJC valve cover spacers to clear the rocker arms...anyone have any suggestions on how to seal them up with gaskets?
 
Shouldn't need anything on the headgaskets but clean surface as you are and I think you need custom pushrods with roller rockers or at least check them installed to make sure the ends aren't too far over or too far before the center of the valve. I think install height on the springs needs to be checked as well.
 
The Harland Sharp rockers are designed for stock heads and should accept stock pushrods. Double check them though just in case since you have done some work to the heads. Great set of rockers!
 
Make sure the threads of the studs that screw in the block by the water jackets have a little sealant ( silicone) on them so antifreeze does not leak out past the studs.
 
The Harland Sharp rockers are designed for stock heads and should accept stock pushrods. Double check them though just in case since you have done some work to the heads. Great set of rockers!

It all depends on if the heads or block was decked during the machining process. It needs checked to be sure. Never install different rockers without confirming pushrod length. It's good insurance.


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Clean everything
Yes 100% with brake clean and a lint free towel. ( no red shop rag) also coat the head gasket with copper spray ( makes for a 100% seal ( all gaskets have flaws)
I only ever use 30wt oil on the head stud (in the block) never in 15yrs had one leak
And don't forget. To put a dabb of silicon in the head to block corners before installing the intake good luck hope to see u up and running again.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
dont need spray on composition gasket

no idea what fastcobra is talking about... oil is not a sealer .. all bolts on the 109 go into coolant passages so they need sealer on the threads into the block

to say that those rockers work with stock rods is not true , many things affect pushrod rod length including the cam base circle and the lifter choice and desired preload ..as mentioned you need to check dont assume


depending on what springs you were sent , if they are behive style and you have standard springs you will need new retainers and locks and the springs should be checked and shimmed as needed depending on your installed height

right stuff the spacers to the heads , and you will need the thick cork gaskets with the harlands and those spacers
 
The Harland Sharp rockers are designed for stock heads and should accept stock pushrods. Double check them though just in case since you have done some work to the heads. Great set of rockers!

Stock pushrods will not work with roller lifters no matter what rocker set up is used. :confused:
 
.......................right stuff the spacers to the heads , and you will need the thick cork gaskets with the harlands and those spacers


I always agree with Paul as he is very good at what he does with these cars, but in this case I personally would make a slight change by sealing the Right Stuff and spacers to the valve covers rather than the head?

If there is a "malfunction", I would rather deal with the VC's and Right Stuff on the bench, rather than on the heads in the car! :)

I recently had a GN that some "genius" that sealed the oil pan gasket with the Right Stuff to the block instead of the pan, and it cost the customer extra for me to deal with that mess it in the car instead of on the pan. :(
 
dont need spray on composition gasket

no idea what fastcobra is talking about... oil is not a sealer .. all bolts on the 109 go into coolant passages so they need sealer on the threads into the block

Yea what he said.
Your are correct oil is not a sealer.
But when u retap the block threds and clean the studs
Oil is all ( I EVER USE )
I don't use sealer and I use copper spray I run 25lbs of boost and never had a head leak or have blown a head gasket.
Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
wouldnt matter even stock doesnt work
im sure you could crank the screw and make it seem that way but read the instructs on the rockers and they should need new pushrods
 
Guys the weber racing roller cam I bought was a package deal....billet hydraulic roller cam (made by comp cams I think), comp cams hydraulic roller lifters, NEW hardened pushrods, and NEW comp cams springs. I never said I was reusing the stock pushrods. The roller rocker arms were purchased separately. I did have to grind all of the rocker pedestals for the rockers to fit but they fit nicely now and don't bind. All of these parts (except the roller rockers) were ordered for me by a well known reputable local Buick tuner so I want to assume he wouldn't order me a bunch of incompatible parts. I'll go ahead and use the spray on copper for the head gaskets (because its extra insurance against leaks) and bolt down the heads tonight. Anyone wanna tell me the best way to assemble the valvetrain where I can check clearances? I'd like to get this motor in the car in the next week.
 
Could anyone give me a good number to torque the ARP studs to once I put the heads on? All I'm finding in the resources is torque specs for stock Buick headbolts.
 
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