questions about ESC module

[wbzautocustomiz]

1) location, 2) What is the function? 3) Can you check them for correct operation? or is ESC same as Ign module? Im asking since I have been trouble shooting a "bad break up at high rpm" and have replaced/repaired a lot of parts especially the usaul suspects cam, maf, map,ecm, fp, fpr, ign module, coil, fuel filter, tighten intercooler hose, set cam, new inj, chip, etc etc, I havent changed crank sensor yet since it is in spec. as far as pass thru on blades go, so reading some post I have seen talk about ESC module and got curious to see if I found the "oh thats what is was all this time?" My car has given me the blues for over 2 years now, if I take to shop I will lose my a** in hours of labor tracking down problem. Thanks

 

[hootowl]

The ESC module location is on the passenger side inner fender panel as shown in the attached pic. and separate from the IGN module. Its general function is to monitor the knock sensor. If knock is detected, the ESC output goes to the ECM and timing is retarded. The amount of retard depends on how severe the knock is. Easiest trouble shooting is to replace, hopefully with a borrowed unit to test. If it is detecting knock (actual or the sensor is bad), it should only retard the timing and thus cut engine power but not cause misses.

Hope this helps,

Mel

 

[Phoneguy]

Make sure you have a good ground to the heads and to the coil mount. Make sure your balancer bolt is tight. What brand of coil? What spark plugs and gap? When you say high rpm's what are you reading on the tach?

Bryan

 

[wbzautocustomiz]

Grounds on pass head cleaned & reterminated, all other gronds checked and cleaned up and repaired, balancer bolt tight, plugs are cr43's gapped from a tight .035 and have even ran them a little tighter to see if would help, brand coil original was ac delco did swap out for a BWD brand but no change even did the type II ign swap stsrts breakin up @ 4300-up rpms on scantool reading

 

[TurboBuRick]

Have you tried running in batch fire?

 

[wbzautocustomiz]

Sorry but havent ever done batch fire before but can it be a dyi with scantool? Help if possible Thanks

 

[trbojo]

batch fire is running with cam sensor disconnected...start the car with it connected, then disconnect while running....take it for a spin and see what happens... just a little note...i've been chasing a "high rpm breakup" for a year...would have sworn it was electrical...turned out to be valve train....something to think about.... valve springs maybe??

 

[Phoneguy]

Have you checked to see if your ECM has gotten wet? Re seat chip? Other than that I would start looking at valvetrain. 4300 is not a very high rpm for it to be breaking up at. Bad lifter, wiped lobe, broken spring. Do a compression check, may have blown a head gasket into the valley. Plugs look ok?


Bryan

 

[wbzautocustomiz]

chatter in drivers valve cover

ECM not wet have a t top car relocated do a safe dry place went throuh a few ecms before I got smart and moved it ,Plugs are fine pulled them rechecked gap 2 days ago, but as far as compression test cant do for about a week no spare time. Now that I see valvtrane into the subject I do get some chatter on dr side valve cover but when I had car at anderson auto in balt, md they told me dont worry about it so I didnt I will probably pull valve cover and take peek to see if anything out of place

 

[trbojo]

i had 4 brand new comp cam lifters that wouldn't pump up fully before install...i took a chance, figuring they'd pump up with oil pressure...they did...problem is, under full load, they would collapse, not allowing the valve to open... when i pulled them out, i could push the plunger down 1/4 inch by hand....my 84000 mile originals that were sitting in a bucket for a year were still pumped up solid.. my breakup was occuring at 4500 to 4900 rpm... sounds to me like you may have a lifter problem too, or weak springs...

 

[wbzautocustomiz]

how do you tell if bad spring or lifter? R & R? i do have some noise in drivers valve cover

 

[KevinB]

Try a tighter gap. Most higher HP guys run .022-.030.

 

[KevinB]

Have you swapped coil pack and module with a known good one?

 

[wbzautocustomiz]

Gapped at .030, .032, .035.all ran the same then Swapped with a spare ign module/coil that was fine just sat on shelf a while but same problem still there I then did the type II ign swap and car ran well for about a hour parked drove next day car back to bull again , now can my car "eat up" modules and coils? Also CE light flashes when car breaks up almost identical as the flash unfortunatly I don't want to fork over $350 for new ign module & coil and still have problem and I'm in wash dc area and don't have anyone else that has TR that I could swap and see. Thanks

 

[TurboBuRick]

If you have not already checked it, make sure the harmonic balancer is tight. As tight as you can get it with a 2ft jack handle on a breaker or a good ratchet. Yea, that tight and you have to clamp the flywheel to do it right.

Next check the crank sensor itself. Make sure it's not loose. Make sure the wheel is not contacting it. Rotate crank/balancer and check all three blades as they pass through the sensor. Check and double check.

 

[wbzautocustomiz]

I did check balancer bolt but I will do so with "handle help" and sensor pnch bolt tight the blades passed thru ok but will recheck, Thanks

 

[TurboBuRick]

To run in batch fire, start the engine then unplug the cam sensor. The ce light will come on. Don't be alarmed. Take the car for a ride and see if problem is still there.

This is after you make sure the crank sensor/balancer is all good.

EDIT: Reading back, just noticed blinking ce light. This could be chip or ecm too.

 

[wbzautocustomiz]

will do

 

[wbzautocustomiz]

is this something to do with it

I also have the issue that when car get up (4000-up rpm) my check engine litter flickers with the break up/stutter at the same time could a malfunctioning crank sensor area be associated with the flicker and if I stay in it for a second "buck,break up,stutter,etc" let off gas and pow a backfire exactly the same if you let it happen. I have a TT 5.6 chip matched with injectors (bought this about 5mos ago) and I believe chip has been set to 18lbs of boost but on autometer boost/vac gauge only showing 10-11lbs of boost (vac between 16-18) could I be getting too much fuel from chip and not reaching correct boost setting? Could my break up/stutter too much fuel? I have made sure of chip seated correctly, prom, and alot of other stuff too. Thanks