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87 WE2

Active Member
Joined
Jun 28, 2002
Messages
1,147
I have a GN chassis I am restoring and have a few questions.

I am using stock front control arms, but I put in Eibach 1" drop springs, I have my spacers I took out for the upper control arms usually I put these back in when I do this work and my alignment it dam near perfect to stock specs however with the drop spring's I imagine the geometry will change a bit. I know every car is a little different but is there any way to know while assembling it what I should put in there as a ball park guess almost for spacers?

Another words with the drop spring would it increase the amount of spacers/shims needed or decrease the amount needed to get the proper caster/camber numbers? I am just looking to start out closer to being right then with nothing I would like to drive to the alignment shop without it being completely out of whack.

Also why I have your attention, is there any better caster/camber numbers to shoot for with the alignment for street driving than the factory specs?

87 GN chassis under a 1980 Malibu wagon with a GN driver train. Eibach 1" drop springs, Bilstien shocks, stock upper and lower arms, stock spindels, moog replacement bushings ball joints, 15" t-type wheels stock size tires.

Thanks guys
 
You can get it in the ball park with a camber tool. You take the grease cap off the spindle and it aligns with the hole in the end of the spindle. You won't be able to do to much more that use a tape to get close to toe setting of 1/6" toe in and get the camber close to zero since you really have no way to check caster. Here's a link to alignment specs but please read the whole thing. I think it should help you some. It's not just about specs for a drag car.

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/threads/g-body-drag-car-alignment-settings.290592/
 
If you want a solid steering wheel that "snaps" back to straight, put as much positive caster in as you can, this will also give you the most high speed stability. The more shims you stick in there are going to give you more negative camber to.
 
Thanks for the reply guys, I have been looking at the shim kit GNS sells, if I were to purchase this kit. Any idea what shim I should start with? There are (4) 1/16" shims, (4) 1/8" shims, and (2) 1/4" shims in the kit.

GNS
 
They look nice and change camber easily enough, but to change the caster you need to add more shims to the rear of the upper control arm. You can get the regular shims at napa. You will need to have a proper alignment done to get it right, casters not a big wear angle and for the most part you can eye up camber, but if the toes not dead on you will wear the hell out of tires. You may be able to use the kit Scott sells, and add some regular shims to the back to increase caster. What are your goals for the car?


Just noticed your from the philly area, what part? Im movin back this weekend to bucks county :)
 
Its a street car, not much track use. I guess I'll save some coin and just buy new standard shims. I'd like to find some that are stainless steel so they won't turn crappy rusty looking.

I'm in Delaware county.

Be sure to join MAGNA when you get settled.
 
You might be able to get some made, or make them yourself. Or just paint the shims black ;).
 
Things must be getting bad if you're moving back home Dave.

Here's some links that may help you and it's pretty good info from what I see. I'm suprised that this is as simple as it is but it seems to work well

Wheel Alignment Machine, Tools - Wheel Alignment Equipment - Eastwood

Wheel Alignment Machine, Tools - Wheel Alignment Equipment - Eastwood

YouTube - Eastwood presents Fastrax Camber/Caster Gauge

YouTube - DIY Alignment - Part 1

YouTube - DIY Alignment - Part 2

YouTube - DIY Alignment - Part 3
 
You got no idea Charlie :eek::eek::eek::D

Been there myself Dave. I really do have an idea of what you're going through. One of the reasons I moved back to Texas after all. I wish everything works out and call me if you need to talk bud.:smile:
 
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