Quick Spool Turbine Housing Flapper Valve - Need help!

[charlief1]

How'd you come up with 14 degrees Donnie? I figured you try for a little less than that. Maybe around 8-9 degrees.

 

[Alky V6]

How'd you come up with 14 degrees Donnie? I figured you try for a little less than that. Maybe around 8-9 degrees.

I'm just following Kinsler's lead. They have a long history of building throttle bodies and have found 14 degrees to be the best for sealing and operation without sticking.

 

[Alky V6]

Progress is moving along. I need to pick out the fasteners next.

I went with .002" shaft to bore clearance.

Shaft is 316 stainless steel and the blade is 304 stainless.

 

[Alky V6]

more pics...

After the valve is fastened I can weld in the dividing wall, and trim and fit the valve to the wall.
The dividing wall will only need to be about 1/3 of the thickness of the adapter.

 

[Alky V6]

As can be seen in the pics, the shaft has been streamlined to the absolute max.
I'm looking at button head socket head capscrews 8-32 to fasten the blade to the shaft.

Does anyone have any good sources for stock type actuators?

 

[Alky V6]

Note on the shaft material. Make sure to run plenty of clearance with this stuff. It very easily galls.

 

[ijames]

Stainless on stainless, both the same alloy, is the worst for galling. Stainless on mild steel isn't nearly as bad . Oh, going from 100F to 500F with a 3/8" 316SS shaft and a 3/8" hole in mild steel the clearance will shrink 0.0005" (half a thousandth), plus whatever warpage occurs . I still think tacking the plate to the shaft in two places would be better than screws.

 

[Alky V6]

I went with 1/4" long screws. Perfect.

The valve is done. All that's left to do is the actuator arm and the actuator.

 

[Alky V6]

Stainless on stainless, both the same alloy, is the worst for galling. Stainless on mild steel isn't nearly as bad . Oh, going from 100F to 500F with a 3/8" 316SS shaft and a 3/8" hole in mild steel the clearance will shrink 0.0005" (half a thousandth), plus whatever warpage occurs . I still think tacking the plate to the shaft in two places would be better than screws.

On final assembly, I'm going to tack on the ends of the screws, or just tig it enough to melt the ends so they can't back out.

 

[Alky V6]

I found an actuator that requires 31-32 psi to fully stroke a distance of 5/8". It makes for a very short lever. I'll be using CO2 pressure to stroke the actuator and close the spool valve, while the same pressure source opens the BOV. When the pressure is relieved, the BOV will shut as the spool valve opens.
All that's left to do is make the bracket that will hold the actuator to the adapter flange.

 

[Alky V6]

pic of progress to date.

 

[Turbo1dr]

I found an actuator that requires 31-32 psi to fully stroke a distance of 5/8". It makes for a very short lever. I'll be using CO2 pressure to stroke the actuator and close the spool valve, while the same pressure source opens the BOV. When the pressure is relieved, the BOV will shut as the spool valve opens.
All that's left to do is make the bracket that will hold the actuator to the adapter flange.

Can I ask....what 's the purpose of using CO2? Reaction... like being able to apply peak pressure before the engine gets to full boost?

 

[charlief1]

I'm looking foward to see how well it works Donnie. This may be just the tirck for what I'm mulling over in my head.

 

[Alky V6]

Can I ask....what 's the purpose of using CO2? Reaction... like being able to apply peak pressure before the engine gets to full boost?

The purpose of using the CO2 is to have some control over the action of the valve. Not just depending on boost pressure to open it.
Control pressure will be used to close the valve and the actuator return spring pressure will be used to open the valve, as control pressure is relieved. Having finite control over the control pressure will allow me to open the valve at anytime or rate that I feel is necessary. This makes the spring pressure of the actuator less critical. Just as long as the spring will open the valve is all that is needed, making the cracking pressure for the actuator unimportant.

With control pressure being used to close the valve, less time using the control pressure will be needed, saving on the pressurized gas. The control pressure will only be needed during the short period just before and after the launch. The alternative of using control pressure to open the valve would mean more time that the control pressure is needed to keep the valve open throughout the run, using up more pressurized CO2.

That lever arm is still a bit bulky. I have some more wittling to do on it.

 

[Adam Connell]

Well the results I have seen so far on this kind of housing/valve showed a reduced spool up time of roughly 33%... Not sure if this is going to be the universal number or just the results he got.

Either way 33% isnt bad at all!

It's lookin good as always Don!

 

[charlief1]

Leave the arm like it is for now Donnie. You'll be better off with it big until you test it a little. Then you can cut it down. Test the stregnth first then worry about how pretty it is.

 

[Alky V6]

It's done.

 

[Alky V6]

More pics...

 

[Turbo1dr]

Excellent work and as beautiful as a top notch manufacturer!

 

[Alky V6]

Video of the valve in action.

YouTube - Turbo spooling valve