Random Questions

[charlief1]

The way the top plate is made it should be straight up when it's open and the lower part will be angled toward the back. The actual throttle plate will be pointing directly at the seperator in the throat of the back 2 barrels.

 

[mat231v6]

The top air flaps open up about 60 degrees stock. All you have to do is go on the choke side of the air valve shaft and grind off 1/4" or so.

You dont have to go to far though. A 231 CID at 2 BAR (15PSI) only flows 630ish CFM. Thats done with calculations out of Doug Roes Qjet book. Used a volumteric efficiency of around 1.75 assuming slightly less than 15 PSI and a motor that isnt up to 100% VE.

Basically what Ive done for mods is loosening up the set screw on the air valve shaft to open the seconaries up qicker, drilled some holes in the seconary well pickup rods and opened the secondary flaps a bit.

The throttle plates on the secondaries are fine, no need to mess with.

Hers just a general link that is nice to have.

QUADRAJET AIRFLOW RATINGS

The way the top plate is made it should be straight up when it's open and the lower part will be angled toward the back. The actual throttle plate will be pointing directly at the seperator in the throat of the back 2 barrels.

so, will putting a spreadbore holley just correct this issue all together?

 

[charlief1]

so, will putting a spreadbore holley just correct this issue all together?

Call Aj since he's the holley guy around here.

 

[dr_frankenstein]

I cant say it will cure the issue, that depends on your tuning skills.

the holley is EASIER to reach the said performance goals in terms of ease of tunability, major adjustment and CFM rating.

I prefer the holley cause I can change boost reference settings, and fine tune the curve to match rate of spool but you have to know how to do these things.

A.j.

 

[FlintBuick4Life]

Has anyone ever tried those Pulstar spark plugs? They are expensive as hell, but they have a lifetime warranty They are supposed to be better than other spark plugs, for that price($10-13 ea), they better be:biggrin:

 

[MNcarbturbo]

NGK Ur5's.

Im sure those plugs are good, but Id prefer to put in a plug that is verified and are out there.

For me, plugs don't stay in for much longer than 10000 miles. I have 6K on the set I have now. They are getting replaced. I dont see why everybody has such a big problem changine plugs.

 

[FlintBuick4Life]

I looked for the ur5`s before and no one had them, I will check here and see if they have them. My uncle says the NGK Platinums are the best for MPGs... he was only getting 20 mpg in his Scion and said "wtf! this aint right" so he put NGK Platinums in it and he was getting about 30 mpg Just thinking MPGs right now.

 

[charlief1]

Stick with AC or NGK copper Jase. They work well and are cheap. Going with a fancy plug will just cause you a problem in the end.

 

[83turbomon]

Stick with AC or NGK copper Jase. They work well and are cheap. Going with a fancy plug will just cause you a problem in the end.

Autolites work best for anything. Cheap, reliable, and tough. My friend has a 69 chevelle SS 396 with some basic Autolites and hes pushin 500+ hp. I was going to go with NGKs but they just dont seem worth it, then again who put 35 cent spark plugs in a mercury:biggrin:

 

[83turbomon]

Boost and Knock Guages

will these work for boost and knock guages

Amazon.com: Tinted Electronic Boost & Air/Fuel Combo Gauge: Automotive

Specializing in automotive interconnect and wiring systems

GBodyParts.com Online

http://www.google.com/products/cata...og_result&ct=result&resnum=3&ved=0CDAQ8wIwAg#

 

[WarWagon]

Yeah, will work. The Knock gauge requires a working ESC.
the first boost/afr gauge is junk from amazon

 

[FlintBuick4Life]

Don`t get the Autolite 23`s... 3 of them cracked, only had them on for a couple weeks.

You can get a boost gauge at AZ for $25

 

[charlief1]

They usually crack from installation Jase, not use. You either had them cracked when you got them or did it while putting them in.

 

[83turbomon]

we were debating on this in school today... is there a way to quote "close" a rear end, or do you need to put in a locker??? (LSD)


Another question... Blowby... Theres lots of it in my car. Whenever the vents are open, the compartment fills with oil smoke. Me and a friend let the car run and idle and (besides the exhaust leak) there is alot of smoke coming out of the oil fill cap. I replaced the breather filter and routed the oil smoke hose (lets just call it that) to the airbox, and put the elbow back on the carb and airbox so it captures the smoke into the carb. From my little experience, this is how the factory did it, but its not right. could it be a clogged PCV? the oil smoke is going the wrong way I was told, its coming out of the breather instead of the PCV. I would like to take the airbox out and run a filter straight to the carb... how would I rectify this?

One last question, water sending units... mine is completley busted and I need it to do some wiring. Autozone doesnt have it, and NAPA looked at me like I was insane.

 

[mat231v6]

we were debating on this in school today... is there a way to quote "close" a rear end, or do you need to put in a locker??? (LSD)


QUOTE]

yea, weld the spiders.

 

[WarWagon]

we were debating on this in school today... is there a way to quote "close" a rear end, or do you need to put in a locker??? (LSD)


QUOTE]

yea, weld the spiders.

No don't do that. Ramone there is a spool that you can replace the ring gear carrier with. And there is a mini spool that installs inplace of the spider gears. These are not good for the street. A LSD is the way to go on the street or a locker.

 

[mat231v6]

No don't do that. Ramone there is a spool that you can replace the ring gear carrier with. And there is a mini spool that installs inplace of the spider gears. These are not good for the street. A LSD is the way to go on the street or a locker.

he didnt ask it is alright to do. he just asked it it can be done. :tongue:
plus, a spool on the street is going to be a royal pain.

 

[Jobi-Wan]

Here's a cheap boost gauge that you can pick up for 12 to 15 bucks with coupons. I did a quick search and found a thread on volvospeed that confirms it reads accurate side by side with an autometer. I'm sure it's not the best and the nitrous logo is cheesy, but would be better than nothing for cheap. I've not used one, but would be willing to if I needed a gauge. T-top pod would be cool. I think I have a single A pillar pod lying around if someone needed it.

2" LED Lit Boost/Vacuum Gauge

 

[mat231v6]

Here's a cheap boost gauge that you can pick up for 12 to 15 bucks with coupons. I did a quick search and found a thread on volvospeed that confirms it reads accurate side by side with an autometer. I'm sure it's not the best and the nitrous logo is cheesy, but would be better than nothing for cheap. I've not used one, but would be willing to if I needed a gauge. T-top pod would be cool. I think I have a single A pillar pod lying around if someone needed it.

2" LED Lit Boost/Vacuum Gauge

if you giving away the a pillar pod i will take it.
it doesnt look like a bad gauage at all.

 

[charlief1]

No don't do that. Ramone there is a spool that you can replace the ring gear carrier with. And there is a mini spool that installs in place of the spider gears. These are not good for the street. A LSD is the way to go on the street or a locker.

I agree here with Adam. You can also get a device that takes the place of the spiders that works just like a locking differential. It's called a lock right and you don't have to disassemble the carrier to put it in. Around $400 if I remember right and you can get it at summit.