Re-application of Belt Molding

[turbo39151]

While I'm not a fan of the stuff, and prefer the smooth look; I am trying to restore a car to perfection right now. It came with belt modling so it needs to go back on. The stuff I took off was horrible and I think I may have pitched it. It's the glue on style and not the one with the rivited channel.

So the questions are:

1. What molding to use (I saw Kirban has a roll for $45 bux-claims its as clost as it gets)

2. Any particular technique to install?

3. Any particular measurements to be aware of?

4. Any other suggestions, recommendations or observations???

 

[TURBOV8R]

Run a line of blue painter's tape as a straight edge.The factory height on mine is 8 inches below the top body line to the top of the belt moulding.Let the roll sit in the sun flattened out to warm it and get flexible to make it easier to situate on the car.

 

[turbo39151]

Anyone mind posting pics? Maybe lenghts for the front and back end pieces?

TIA

 

[BADazzBUICK]

I just bought a roll of it from Kirbans. I dont have it with me now,but it comes with directions and a little picture to show you exactaly where to put it.If your not gonna get it from Kirbans,I can give you the measurements when I get home. HTH.

 

[TURBOV8R]

I still have the factory riveted jobs on mine and heres the numbers .

FRONT FENDER-1/4" from the fender edge,7 3/4" long

DOOR--1/4"from the door edge(next to the fender) 58" long to the edge of the door.

1/4 PANEL--1/4" from the edge 15 7/8" long.This will bring you right up to the character line above the wheel.

NOTE! The way the moulding is cut on the leading edge of the door next to the fender is what seems to be beveled at @30degrees,so when the door opens it will not catch on the fender edge.
---The door to 1/4 are cut flush,and the ends at the 1/4 panel(NEAREST TO THE CHARACTER LINE) and the FRONT OF THE fender are cut the same 30degrees.
Sorry don't have my camera,or would have taken shots of the angled cuts to make my babblings a little more clear.Again,the height is 8"down from the top body line.

 

[David65]

I still have the factory riveted jobs on mine and heres the numbers .

Are you sure? Mine are factory and they are on with double sided tape. I believe the riveted ones are from the dealer. If so, your dimensions may not be what they were from the factory. Might want to do a search to verify this.


Eric, is this correct?

 

[aminga]

Are you sure? Mine are factory and they are on with double sided tape. I believe the riveted ones are from the dealer. If so, your dimensions may not be what they were from the factory. Might want to do a search to verify this.


Eric, is this correct?

No it isn't. All of the emblems and mouldings were stuck on unless maybe they were riveted on a limited.

 

[David65]

A little confused here. You're saying I'm right? The side moldings on a GN were stuck on at the factory, and could've been riveted on at the dealer? I suppose they could've been stuck on at the dealer, also. The RPO codes would confirm that I guess. If it wasn't dark and cold out I'd go look at mine, but I'm being lazy right now...



(sorry to hijack, 39151)

 

[turbo39151]

No worries... I just want this to be accurate. I sold my 87T with the riveted molding so I don't have a refernece and all my othe TR's have had the molding removed...

If someone has pics please don't hesitate to post up. I would like this thread to be informative for anyone who is trying to get it right.

 

[aminga]

No what I was trying to say is that the 86 T-types had glued on moulding. It is possible that a limited may have had screwed on moulding I'm not sure.

I'm pretty sure any T or T-type with screwed on moulding it's not factory.

 

[TURBOV8R]

Actually my buddy Rob had stick on mouldings on his GN.Is it possible that GN's got the 'sticky"? You said limiteds got the riveted jobs,could be,but after working in an assembly plant for 15 years,Leave nothing to chance as far as the right parts in the right place.we had strict check points but occasionally things slipped by a repairman to be picked up later.Plus with something as not so significant as a belt moulding, weeelll I'm sure it could probably be shrugged off as "oh well,at least there's something there"I thought most dealers would be installing the stick on jobbers over the more time consuming riveted ones?

 

[turbofish38]

The factory installed Body Side Moldings were all stuck/glued on. The riveted moldings are Dealer add-on. Doesn't make a difference which model of Regal. They are all glued on. GM reverted from drilling any unnecessary holes in cars. The idea was to keep the sheet metal from rusting prematurely. Drive a trim screw into a hole and the paint chips which leaves bare metal and of course it's a matter oftime before it starts to corrode.

If you have some dealer brouchures or one of the Steven Dove GN Facts&Figures books there are some pictures showing those moldings on a Regal. In fact there are some excellent pictures of "The Last GN" with those moldings. I'll see if I can dig up a pic to post.

 

[dwall]

A couple pics.... OEM belt molding

I have some with measurements some where but my picture filing leaves a lot to be desired...

 

[dwall]

A couple of the front 1/4

Hope these help...
Bob

 

[TURBOV8R]

AAAWWW Man!! Mine really suck now!! Always hated those things,Now I hate them more!

 

[turbo39151]

Anyone else with some glued on molding pics? Maybe an 86 TTYpe where the emblems are above the molding?

 

[charlief1]

Thanks, I needed that info my self.

 

[turbo39151]

I need more pics!!! Come on guys, someone break out that digital camera and help a Buick Brother out

 

[turbo39151]

Still need more pics for this thread...

 

[philosobrad]

Factory original 86 T-Type