Rebuild advice

[wmerrell]

Engine needs works. It spun a bearing or something. Not sure exactly until the engine is removed. The car is street driven with an occasional trip to the strip. My goal is a 10.9 quarter mile time. What crank, pistons, rods, caps, girdle are needed to keep the engine together?

 

[Slow91z]

You'll get many different answers, but here's my opinion...if those are seriously your goals you should be fine with stock parts (if it needs a bore definitely get forged pistons as your replacements)...if there is a chance you are fooling yourself and will end up wanting to go faster then that changes.

 

[87WE4BOOSTED]

^ X2!

 

[wmerrell]

Thanks!
At what point do you need billet main caps?

 

[87WE4BOOSTED]

My builder's opinion is 10.50~10.00, you can get away with caps. Anything faster a girdle should be used.

 

[wmerrell]

Old engine broke a rod. Punched a hole in the block and smashed a piston.
Purchased a new SG 1 long block from G Body Parts at the BPG meet at Hebron yesterday.
All stock - heads, cam, rods, pistons and crank.
My goal is still 10.9 and not ruin another engine.
What upgrades should be made to the SG1 long block?

 

[Nick Micale]

You already broke a 25 year old rod, so there is no reason to use ANY parts of the old rotating assembly.

Go with a complete forged rotating assembly. Using a cast stock crank that has been stressed beyond its designed performance level is not a smart choice?

If you want to have a RELIABLE 10 sec. build, spend $500 and go beyond that point by adding 2 steel center caps, and this will give you at least a high 9 sec. safety factor.

 

[wmerrell]

I am not planning on using any of the old rotating assembly.
The new long block came with new stock rotating assembly.
Should I take to long block to a machine shop and make sure the rotating asembly is new?
Also, if it is new, should the engine have it aligned bored and caps installed.
Thanks
Bill

 

[Nick Micale]

If you plan to run it into the 10's, steel caps would be good insurance with a cast stock crank.

 

[wmerrell]

Thanks!

 

[TurboTGuy]

Nick won't steer you wrong, pay attention.

 

[qws2000]

Nick, you always give great advice, always looking to see what you think.....

 

[JYLP]

You already broke a 25 year old rod, so there is no reason to use ANY parts of the old rotating assembly.

Go with a complete forged rotating assembly. Using a cast stock crank that has been stressed beyond its designed performance level is not a smart choice?

If you want to have a RELIABLE 10 sec. build, spend $500 and go beyond that point by adding 2 steel center caps, and this will give you at least a high 9 sec. safety factor.

So, how fast can you go with stock crank and rods? Would the block being .030 over with je pistons make it any less safe? Would it be safe to run say mid to low 10's with stock crank and rods if the motor has a girdle?

 

[Slow91z]

Well I have gone almost 130 mph so far which is enough for mid-low 10's with a car that 60 foots well (too bad mine doesn't really), with a completely stock rebuilt shortblock (well almost it does have a NA crank). If I had a girdle and forged pistons I think it would live for a while assuming no mishaps. As it is I have broken a couple of pistons.