Recieved my Tallon Hydraulics hydro booster

[Dhos1]

More pics...inside pedal height/ new proportioning valve hook up/ and i decided since it was down i would shine up the fmic pipes...i just started, but thiscwas a good 25 mins of work...not too bad

 

[Dhos1]

More pics...inside pedal height/ new proportioning valve hook up/ and i decided since it was down i would shine up the fmic pipes...i just started, but thiscwas a good 25 mins of work...not too bad

 

[Dhos1]

Looking at installing a filter as well...wheres everyone getting thiers from?

 

[GNRick]

Parts stores. Search for power steering filters.

 

[turboclam]

Butch has them. He recommends putting them on the high pressure line coming from the pump.

 

[turboclam]

Butch has them. He recommends putting them on the high pressure line coming from the pump.

 

[Dhos1]

Got a filter from Oreillys will pic up tommorrow. Ran ALL new lines today damn mear..here's a pic of rear lines

 

[Dhos1]

I do have 1 question. How in the hell do you replace that long bastard along the left side. I brouht all 7 lines and am determined to change them all. The only thing i can think of is splice it in half...any ideas besides that. Im thinking about a 3-4 inch splice with rubber brake line tubing. Thoughts???

 

[Kellysgn]

Still working on it, but heres a pic so far. Decided not to do a write up since there are so many on here already. I actually followed one to a tee so far. But a few differences i had was that most of them only secure by 2 bolts to the firewall. The Tallon one has a block that secures by 4. I called Butch and he recommends 4 for strength. See the picture, all you have to do is remove the plate and it bolts right in. I actually found the pedal and the cotter pin EASY and im 6ft about 230 with fairly large hands. The only issue i had was manuvering a bit as i lift quite a bit...other than that i got it by myself with a few trips in and out to line it up. I ended up changing the proportioning vavle and most of the lines were so rusted i ended up cutting them out and replacong them with new lines from Kirban=perfect fit. Still working on them, but heres a pic of it from the top...im satisfied so far.

Still working on it, but heres a pic so far. Decided not to do a write up since there are so many on here already. I actually followed one to a tee so far. But a few differences i had was that most of them only secure by 2 bolts to the firewall. The Tallon one has a block that secures by 4. I called Butch and he recommends 4 for strength. See the picture, all you have to do is remove the plate and it bolts right in. I actually found the pedal and the cotter pin EASY and im 6ft about 230 with fairly large hands. The only issue i had was manuvering a bit as i lift quite a bit...other than that i got it by myself with a few trips in and out to line it up. I ended up changing the proportioning vavle and most of the lines were so rusted i ended up cutting them out and replacong them with new lines from Kirban=perfect fit. Still working on them, but heres a pic of it from the top...im satisfied so far.

**** You and I were talking on Facebook I am doing the same Talon Hydro-boost install right now - started car yesterday had two issues - brass proportioning valve is leaking out the plunger ( the one pointed towards the front ) next issue brake pedal slow to return , talked to Butch , I am currently using a tee to tie my low pressure lines together , I have to change them so they run by themselves

 

[Dhos1]

It must have been somewhere else we talked, i dont have facebook but i had tthe same slow to return on the pedal....a quick rebleed and drive took care of it. I will tell you this...i love my hydroboost. It whines a bit, but im used to it. If you ever have to make a sudden stop, you better be used to the force because if you go jamming on it---it will put your ass through the windshield.