Removing and replacing oil pump
- Thread starter rb68rr
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Don't have a step by step but it's really pretty straight forward. Remove the crossover pipe, remove the oil pan. The pan will clear the screen if you carefully maneuver it around. The oil screen and pump are easily accessible. Remove and replace. Completely remove any gasket material from pan and block. Install new gasket onto pan using RTV black gasket sealer, reinstall pan (do not over tighten bolts). Reinstall crossover, turn key, check for leaks, enjoy!
You may want to change the rear main seal while you're there but that is a whole other issue. Good time to change if it's leaking, if not don't fix the unbroken!
You may want to change the rear main seal while you're there but that is a whole other issue. Good time to change if it's leaking, if not don't fix the unbroken!
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Suggest you..
take a look at your TR, B4 you r&r the oil pump...You may find it "missing" once you get the pan off.
Don't have a step by step but it's really pretty straight forward. Remove the crossover pipe, remove the oil pan. The pan will clear the screen if you carefully maneuver it around. The oil screen and pump are easily accessible. Remove and replace. Completely remove any gasket material from pan and block. Install new gasket onto pan using RTV black gasket sealer, reinstall pan (do not over tighten bolts). Reinstall crossover, turn key, check for leaks, enjoy!
take a look at your TR, B4 you r&r the oil pump...You may find it "missing" once you get the pan off.
oil pump
not sure why you want to replace it ?It's pretty simple I remove the oil filter and right side intercooler bracket.there are 2 screws inside the oil cooler line housing, 5 or 6 around the out side housing.I always mark and remove cam sensor because i like to re prime the system with a drill you may be able to remove the 2 oil pump gears without removing the cam sensor. then fill the oil pump housing with Vaseline to prime on restart.If I did that I would disconnect the orange ecm wire and turn motor over till i got oil pressure to avoid a dry start up.not sure what you are trying to gain,the oil pump housing is aluminum the gears are steel if there is ware there I would think It would be to the housing before it would be to the gears unless you are adding a boost plate to increase oil pressure?
not sure why you want to replace it ?It's pretty simple I remove the oil filter and right side intercooler bracket.there are 2 screws inside the oil cooler line housing, 5 or 6 around the out side housing.I always mark and remove cam sensor because i like to re prime the system with a drill you may be able to remove the 2 oil pump gears without removing the cam sensor. then fill the oil pump housing with Vaseline to prime on restart.If I did that I would disconnect the orange ecm wire and turn motor over till i got oil pressure to avoid a dry start up.not sure what you are trying to gain,the oil pump housing is aluminum the gears are steel if there is ware there I would think It would be to the housing before it would be to the gears unless you are adding a boost plate to increase oil pressure?
Just a Six??
OK! Who Farted??
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take a look at your TR, B4 you r&r the oil pump...You may find it "missing" once you get the pan off.
That car must be a Custom Built unit having the Oil Pump in the pan???
The standard 86-87 Oil Pump bolts onto the timing cover pass side bottom. 6- 10mm head bolts with 2 behind the oil filter.
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"not sure why you want to replace it ?".. From what I've read, he can't get the relief valve spool out...
Forgot to mention that I did get the oil pressure relief valve out and didnt see anything wrong with it! Do I need to take the whole timing chain cover off or just check the gears or both? And then the pan? How would you go about it Chuck? Thanks, R.B.
turbofabricator
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Hesermon just gave instructions to R&R a small block Chevy oil pump, NOT a turbo Buick oil pump.
The oil pump is integeral to the timing cover, and to really do it right I would pull the timing cover. But......WHY do you NEED to replace the oil pump? If you have low oil pressure, look elsewhere. Time to R&R the engine and check bearings. If it is a rebuilt engine, then it might be a couple of things. A oil gallery plug popped out, bad bearing clearance, spun cam bearing, worn out lifter bores, loose oil pump pick up tube, NO oil pump pick up tube, oil pump clearance way too loose, ect. Still good idea to pull the engine and take a look. Everything needs to be checked, and double checked. I need a little more info on WHY you feel the oil pump needs replacing. I have never seen a worn set of oil pump gears really cause a low pressure issue. I'm sure it could, but after 20+ years of building these things, it is useally a bearing issue that casues oil pressure issues, or a really loose thrust clearance in the pump.
The oil pump is integeral to the timing cover, and to really do it right I would pull the timing cover. But......WHY do you NEED to replace the oil pump? If you have low oil pressure, look elsewhere. Time to R&R the engine and check bearings. If it is a rebuilt engine, then it might be a couple of things. A oil gallery plug popped out, bad bearing clearance, spun cam bearing, worn out lifter bores, loose oil pump pick up tube, NO oil pump pick up tube, oil pump clearance way too loose, ect. Still good idea to pull the engine and take a look. Everything needs to be checked, and double checked. I need a little more info on WHY you feel the oil pump needs replacing. I have never seen a worn set of oil pump gears really cause a low pressure issue. I'm sure it could, but after 20+ years of building these things, it is useally a bearing issue that casues oil pressure issues, or a really loose thrust clearance in the pump.
Just a Six??
OK! Who Farted??
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get the car on ramps or stands. remove pass side intercooler bracket.
remove oil filter. You will see 6 10mm head bolts. 2 hiding behind where filter was but now you can see them. remove 6 bolts & off comes pump cover & gears will fall out usually.
Check all surfaces etc. Install new or used gears with vaseline & gasket & tighten back up.
Unplug ecm & spin the motor to get some pressure up. Start car & look for leaks.
This is the BASIC way to do it but as Ken said it's usually not the gears but something else!
remove oil filter. You will see 6 10mm head bolts. 2 hiding behind where filter was but now you can see them. remove 6 bolts & off comes pump cover & gears will fall out usually.
Check all surfaces etc. Install new or used gears with vaseline & gasket & tighten back up.
Unplug ecm & spin the motor to get some pressure up. Start car & look for leaks.
This is the BASIC way to do it but as Ken said it's usually not the gears but something else!
Feeling pretty stupid here, I was half asleep when I posted, I was thinking of the oil pick up screen/ tube! OOPS!
turbofabricator
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Ya, I'm glad I have NEVER posted something wrong before. There have been lots of times I have been typing away with a reply to someones problem and then go back and proof read it. Only to re-read the original posters' question and then have to hit the delete button.
The the original poster: What timing cover are you using? Stock or aftermarket?
There have been lots of times I have been typing away with a reply to someones problem and then go back and proof read it. Only to re-read the original posters' question and then have to hit the delete button.The the original poster: What timing cover are you using? Stock or aftermarket?
The main thread for the oil filter? What size is it 29 or 30mm?
Just a Six??
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It's been a few years but 29 sounds right? You might find some useful info on these 2 sites.
http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/pictureguides/timingcovers/87cover.html
http://ihadav8.com/forum/VortexBuicks/index.html
