Repeat procedure.

[usetaboost]

Should be interesting. That right there would tell you how shitty they actually are. Couldn't imagine them much worse than the hot air intakes

 

[WarWagon]

Well Fecal matter, I've spent all my time installing my last upgrade and I still can't Rev the engine all the way out. These Comp 980 valvesprings must be weak as hell for the boost I put against them. Or I have to upgrade the entire distributor to the Unilite, I don't know why its cutting out early yet I figured this would fix it!. Anyways Mallory Hyfire 6 control on board now with a 3 bar map sensor.

 

[charlief1]

Change the springs first. Aren't they several years old now?

 

[WarWagon]

I installed them June 10th '10 there isn't too many miles on them (couple dyno pulls, street time) but still I installed them un-shimmed out of the box. Probably put on a set of new LT1 springs then.

 

[charlief1]

Since the cam's broken in now you could go with a higher spring pressure Adam. That should keep you from waisting a cam.

 

[usetaboost]

What's your plug gap set at?

 

[WarWagon]

What's your plug gap set at?

Tight Tight, spark plug gap @ .022 from the last time I put them in. They are non-projected tip NGKR5673-7
Today having completed catching up on sleep after installing the ignition box, I went back over it to make sure I didn't missa anything and I used it's tach calibration function and would you believe it's saying my sport-comp Autometer tach is off 800rpm. After a few mishaps at the FLD's (main vac/boost line tee rupture, clogged fuel filter"just WTF is in this tank anyways") the car was performing great on the way home after compensating for the 800rpm difference I now believe the engine is running up too 5300rpms now.

 

[usetaboost]

.022? that's waaay too tight. .030 should be plenty.

 

[WarWagon]

Before the Ign box install plug gaps of .030 and .025 would pop out of the exhaust, soon as I tightend the gap up too .022 all that has went away. They could probably be opened up some now with the Ign box on but the tight plug gap is working for me so it's staying.

 

[usetaboost]

Probably had a weak coil or something.

 

[WarWagon]

Fixed everything and the tach is good now(cut the brown loop!). There were no issues with the revs before just not seeing it right because the tach, I've been running the engine up to 6k rpm not knowing before.
2 step is hooked up and works good in conjuntion with the trans brake. Set at 3500 results in nearly 10psi to launch with and is already too much just for 275/60r15 street tires. I like the 2 step it's smooth and sound good. Perfect full auto shifts at 5200 and I set the rev limiter to 5700 since I can easily see it revs to 6k with the tach working rite. I'll get a video recorded soon, I bumped the boost up to 22psi since I feel safer now with boost proportional retard, probably won"t go any more with just 93 fuel.

 

[usetaboost]

Bad ass Adam!

 

[charlief1]

Fixed everything and the tach is good now(cut the brown loop!). There were no issues with the revs before just not seeing it right because the tach, I've been running the engine up to 6k rpm not knowing before.
2 step is hooked up and works good in conjuntion with the trans brake. Set at 3500 results in nearly 10psi to launch with and is already too much just for 275/60r15 street tires. I like the 2 step it's smooth and sound good. Perfect full auto shifts at 5200 and I set the rev limiter to 5700 since I can easily see it revs to 6k with the tach working rite. I'll get a video recorded soon, I bumped the boost up to 22psi since I feel safer now with boost proportional retard, probably won"t go any more with just 93 fuel.

Please send me an email about the 2 step and how it works Adam. I'm looking for every advantage I can get here.

 

[usetaboost]

I don't really see why it's needed

 

[WarWagon]

Thanks for the thoughts guys.
a couple pics with street tires:

 

[charlief1]

Hope you got the "other" email I sent you Adam. Should make the "big boys" stand up and shout just a little. Now if only we can convince Jesse to get rid of the band width hogging stupid vids.

 

[WarWagon]

Here is a quick 2 Step test vid I made today after pulling the Buick out of the garage. Don't mind me I'm still a bit buzzed from my birthday yesterday and the car wasn't even @ 100*f yet:

 

[charlief1]

Finally got to see your ugly mug Adam. You really need to get a better steering wheel on that thing. Like the sound of the spool but next time turn up the volume a little.

 

[WarWagon]

But Charlie I like my cover-less stock steering wheel actually it's kind of broke and stuck on the column, but it's safe so I'm still using it. Yes more volume in next video Check!.
Ok so moving on with the latest update: Alkycontrol installed, boost increased, bigger smile on my face. But the journey to get there was not so easy. After talking with Julio about kit certain differences I made the decision. Bought a NEW TTA Alkycontrol kit from a board member and went about making it work in the Regal's engine bay. After only one real holdup (Battery) I was able to install the entire kit(sans the mini overflow) in the wrong car with minimal fabbing and no problems , I just removed the lower front plastic mount off the TTA tank and added my own top mount strap(WV license plate) and straightend the 90* angle on the radiator support and it was done.
Pump mounted on the bumper reinforcement in close proximity with the trans cooler:

Under hood mock up:

Battery in the trunk now:

Final under hood:

 

[WarWagon]

And so my first trip out with the Alkycontrol resulted in the horse power tube blowing off, once fixed I drove car out and tried it again: Bog @22psi boost gain knob on 6.
Bumped gain down to 4 and added 2psi boost is 24psi now, okay she's pulling and no bog AFR 10:1
Again added 2 more psi boost is 26 psi now and hits 28psi in high gear which is coming up quick, AFR 10.8:1 no knocking.
So this is where I stopped and left everything set at as my butt dyno says it's good, didn't even have to open up the PAC controller.