Replacing front bumber filler panels

[Mike Schaefer]

I desperately need to replace my filler panels. I have a nice '87 WE4 but the panels have deteriorated. What is involved in replacing them (fronts). Does it require bumper removal? How long does it take? I just want some feedback before I tackle something too difficult for me to take on.

Mike

 

[03FatBoy]

Not too difficult at all. Yes, the front bumper needs to come off, but that only takes a 13mm deepwell socket to remove. I did not remove the grille, or the headlight bezels. I believe you need to remove the lower grille springs as well, but basically it is a remove and replace operation. Make sure you have two helpers to remove and reinstall the bumper... they are heavier than they look!
You might also make some reference marks on the rear of the bumper to get things back in the correct locations.
Rears are not much different, did those yesterday!

 

[T-top87GN]

It's not that hard.

Remove the headlight bezel with four T15 screws. Three screws under the bezel hold the top of the filler. Four 10mm bolts on the side of the filler.

I changed mine without removing the bumper. However, I did not replace them with fiberglass pieces. The original pieces I know will flex a bit to help you out. I don't know about the fiberglass pieces.

 

[03FatBoy]

I replaced mine with the fiberglass... and didn't want to take a chance scratching the. Apparently not necessary for the factory stuff. And yes, correction, I did remove the headlight bezels!

 

[Mike Schaefer]

Thanks for the input. I will give it a shot!

 

[Mike Schaefer]

Thank you for your input.

Mike

 

[TurboDave]

Yes, to avoid damage before or after, bumper removal is a must, no matter whar material you new fillers are.

At least a two, better three...person job.

 

[RmvBfrFlght]

I just replaced the fillers on the SO's car with fiberglass pieces. To remove the bumper I unbolted it from the frame. There is a single bolt on each side that comes down from the top of the frame. And three bolts/nuts on each flange.

All that was required to remove was the two grille springs and the bumper. The grille springs go to the bumper support which is why they need to be R&R'd.

I didn't reuse the thin metal support pieces that are at the top of the stock filler.

With the bumper mounts still on the bumper it made it easy to slide back into the frame. This prevented it from hitting the new fillers.

I first placed the bumper up on some wood blocks at the correct height. Then moved one end into the frame, then the other end. Once even partly into the frame the bumper stays put. Then bolt it back up.

RemoveBeforeFlight.

 

[Bruce Urie]

Not too difficult at all. Yes, the front bumper needs to come off, but that only takes a 13mm deepwell socket to remove. I did not remove the grille, or the headlight bezels. I believe you need to remove the lower grille springs as well, but basically it is a remove and replace operation. Make sure you have two helpers to remove and reinstall the bumper... they are heavier than they look!
You might also make some reference marks on the rear of the bumper to get things back in the correct locations.
Rears are not much different, did those yesterday!

I sure hope you remembered to disconnect the turn signal/parking lights from the wiring harness (the amber ones in the bumper) or you'll rip the whole wiring up if you drop the bumper. Better yet...after disconnecting the bulbs/wiring from the amber lights, take out the amber lens also...this way, if you drop/move/sneeze/hit something with the bumper by accident (or by too much beer), you won't have to spend a fortune on new amber lights. Those damn things have really gone up in price. I made a one man support for the bumper out of scrap 2x4s with a holder on each end...placed the 2 2x4s under the jack and lowered the bumper easly then jacking it back up with this support to the right location to bolted back on.

Bruce '87 Grand National