Replacing Front Springs and Shocks

[SpeedRacerX]

I read all the threads I could find on this topic. Today, I replaced the rear springs and shocks on my 87 GN.

Tomorrow, I am tackling the front which I hear is more difficult.

My approach is to hold the lower arm with a jack, unbolting the arm at the frame and lower the jack slowly. I may put a chain or strap thru the spring for extra safety. I despise spring compressors so I'm not going that route.

My confusion is: by using this method, does any ball joint or anything else need to be unbolted besides the two lower arm bolts? Aside from the shock of course.

Thanks in advance.

 

[charlief1]

You're doing it the hardest way you can if you plan on installing them in reverse. Loosen the nut on the lower ball joint but don't take it off. Hit the knuckle where the stud goes through with a very large hammer until the stud breaks free of the knuckle. Put the jack under the arm and lift it up until the nut is free and you can take it off easily. Lower the jack SLOWLY until the arm is free of the knuckle and the spring will drop out fairly easily. A chain can help but to be honest, a spring compressor makes it much easier.

If you decide to use a spring compressor I'd be more than happy to tell you how to use it safely, and it will be much easier than what you're about to try.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Just did mine. Reused the stock springs after a rebuild of bushings, ball joints.
We tried the old hook style compressor. WAAAY to dangerous. After having it for 20+ yrs, it's in the scrap pile.
I bought the OTC plate style compressor. Works like a charm, and is easy to use.. Not cheap, but it flat out works! Got it off the bag.
The stock spring was compressed to 11.5" in order to be a easier fit.
I also used new insulators. I tie wrapped them on the top coil at 4 places.
Once all is bolted up, the compressor screw is loosened, and removed. The 2 plates then are slid out thru the coil spaces.
30 min job, vs 2 hrs fighting w/ that old tool.

 

[charlief1]

I guess I'm just going to have to show how to use a spring compressor so others know how to do it.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

I guess I'm just going to have to show how to use a spring compressor so others know how to do it.

Guess so.........

 

[SpeedRacerX]

I guess I'm just going to have to show how to use a spring compressor so others know how to do it.

Come down to NJ and teach me in person I'll pay ya!

Member "ungn" gave me a nice write-up which I'll most likely use.

 

[Vince13]

Please do Charlie, I have a Project coming up and the spring compressor scares the crap out of me.

 

[charlief1]

Come down to NJ and teach me in person I'll pay ya!

Member "ungn" gave me a nice write-up which I'll most likely use.

Don't think you want to pay for a service call all the way from Texas, but I'm game if you feel like paying $50 and hour plus .50 a mile. BTW, that's from the time I leave here to the time I get back. Let's see, 30 hours up and then back (60 t0tal), plus the mileage would be.....

 

[SpeedRacerX]

Please do Charlie, I have a Project coming up and the spring compressor scares the crap out of me.

Me too.

At some point in a spring compressor's life, it will be a millisecond away from potentially altering your life.

 

[charlief1]

And here I was making plans to visit my old stomping grounds, as well as put some $ in the bank.

 

[BuickMike231]

I took mine out earlier this year the way Charlie described. Loosen the nut and bust it loose, then Jack it up and take it off. Lower the control arm with the Jack and pull the spring out. I had 2" lowering springs in at the time so they were unloaded at the bottom of the control arm travel. A stock length spring would still he heavily loaded I think, and be scary as hell to pop out.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Like I said, the hook type is in the trash, and the OTC is now what we use.
Not cheap, but is < a new set of front teeth..
http://www.zoro.com/otc-front-coil-...m_source=Bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PLA

 

[Pronto]

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Hadn't thot of doing it that way..The lowers were already installed, so we just compressed to 11+", and stuffed them in. NP.
The Turbo T will get your set up used, as it's a ragged out mess, and due for a refresh.

 

[Pronto]

I just captured that pic off a B Body forum to show how the set up works for the non believers. Some day when I do mine, I'll go this way. With the lowers off or say adding tubular arms this would be so slick.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

I just captured that pic off a B Body forum to show how the set up works for the non believers. Some day when I do mine, I'll go this way. With the lowers off or say adding tubular arms this would be so slick.

My hook style would slip free at the slightest jar, bump. After an hr, we said "time out", and bought this unit. I had used that hook unit for 20 yrs, then....

 

[charlief1]

I do it like that with the hooks, but the bottom hook I made a plate for so it sits just like the OTC unit. Never had an issue or failure with it.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

I do it like that with the hooks, but the bottom hook I made a plate for so it sits just like the OTC unit. Never had an issue or failure with it.

That would be a better mousetrap. I found the hooks slide way too easy> I tried locking them w/ a vise grip until I had it really loaded. Went to install w/ the grips off, bumped it ever so slightly and WHAMO, it let go...Tried it multiple times, same results.

 

[charlief1]

That would be a better mousetrap. I found the hooks slide way too easy> I tried locking them w/ a vise grip until I had it really loaded. Went to install w/ the grips off, bumped it ever so slightly and WHAMO, it let go...Tried it multiple times, same results.

Most of the time the hook type won't fit in a lighter car because it's to long. If you make a plate and put it in between the bottom of the arm and the top of the bottom hook it will allow for the rod to go just high enough and not hit the spring pocket in the frame. Once you tighten it down it will be mounted to the lower arm and you can pull the whole thing out, or just loosen the compressor and take the spring off. You instal it in reverse by putting the spring on the arm and pulling it down to compress it. Make sure to look at the position of the claws on the spring so you can put them in the same location or yo may end up with some binding when you try and remove the claws.

 

[Boxcars]

If you don't have a spring compressor, another way to do it is to leave the ball joint connected, after removing the shock, place your jack under the control arm and take out the two control arm bolts on the frame side of the lower control arm. Allow your floor jack to lower the control arm and remove the spring. Reverse it for installing the new spring. No spring compressor needed.