Replacing the camshaft

[GN owner]

Does the radiator and AC condenser have to be removed in order to remove the camshaft? What about the oil pan? Any helpful tips to replacing the camshaft is greatly appreciated.

By the way does anyone have a recommendation for a camshaft for a daily driver?

Thank you.

 

[Nick Micale]

......By the way does anyone have a recommendation for a camshaft for a daily driver?

Thank you.

No, the radiator or condenser does not need to be removed, but the pan must be loosened and should be cleaned and a new gasket installed.

My recommendation is to leave the cam alone as many stock engines and stock cams have run into the 9's, and to get more noticeable HP you will need to turn more RPM with a upgrade cam.

 

[GN owner]

No, the radiator or condenser does not need to be removed, but the pan must be loosened and should be cleaned and a new gasket installed.

My recommendation is to leave the cam alone as many stock engines and stock cams have run into the 9's, and to get more noticeable HP you will need to turn more RPM with a upgrade cam.

Nick,

Thank you for the tip. I did not mention it but the reason I have to change the cam is because the cam is worn. I did a search on the website for the symptoms of how my engine is acting up and it matches several of the posts about a cam going flat. Again thank you very much for the information. By the way do you have a recommendation for a cam? My car is a daily driver and is mostly stock except for dual SS exhaust and a performance chip for stock injectors.

Thank you very much for you time,
GN owner

 

[Nick Micale]

Nick,
Thank you for the tip. I did not mention it but the reason I have to change the cam is because the cam is worn. I did a search on the website for the symptoms of how my engine is acting up and it matches several of the posts about a cam going flat. GN owner

The very first thing to look at is a vacuum gauge while the engine is running, low vacuum and wild fluctuations of the needle could indicate a valve/cam issue.

Before I would condemn a cam that is wiped based upon just internet "symptoms", pulling the valve covers will give you some real world data.

First kill power to the ECM, and with someone to help by using the ignition to rotate the engine while you are looking at the rockers, see if they all are opening very close to the same amount of travel.

I have seen many original cams with over 100K miles with very little wear, and it would wreck my week if I changed a cam that was not bad?

If the cam does need to be replaced, you already have accomplished the first step of the process!

 

[t-typinator]

By the way does anyone have a recommendation for a camshaft for a daily driver?

Thank you.[/QUOTE]



The 206 hydraulic roller cam would be my suggestion.
http://www.cottonsperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=EngRC&cat=35

 

[GN owner]

The very first thing to look at is a vacuum gauge while the engine is running, low vacuum and wild fluctuations of the needle could indicate a valve/cam issue.

Before I would condemn a cam that is wiped based upon just internet "symptoms", pulling the valve covers will give you some real world data.

First kill power to the ECM, and with someone to help by using the ignition to rotate the engine while you are looking at the rockers, see if they all are opening very close to the same amount of travel.

I have seen many original cams with over 100K miles with very little wear, and it would wreck my week if I changed a cam that was not bad?

If the cam does need to be replaced, you already have accomplished the first step of the process!

Nick,

Thank you for the tip. I'll be pulling off the valve covers this weekend and hopefully it doesn't come down to the cam.

T-typinator,

I've had several suggestions the same as yours and that is to go with a 206 cam. The First step is to pull the valve covers as NIck recommended and check for the valve lifts and compare the rockers.

Thank you all for taking the time to help me out.

 

[Jerryl]

Unless you are pulling/swapping the heads, or they are setup for the additional lift, the 206 will be close for comfort.

Although flat tappet, the 204/214 has a much better chance of direct swap success where lift is concerned.

 

[Nick Micale]

..................... I've had several suggestions the same as yours and that is to go with a 206 cam. The First step is to pull the valve covers as NIck recommended and check for the valve lifts and compare the rockers.................

We have installed many 206/206 cams over the years we have built turbo engines, but recently we have gone to a 208/208 grind that has a little more lift and duration, but is still a great street cam.

Just to digress a bit, the engine I am building is a 109 block with that 208/208 flat tappet cam, and also TA SI heads, TE-45A turbo, 96# injectors and a custom chip for e-85.

My objective is to use old-school parts, and a stock crank engine, all in a nice street driver which should easily have 500 RWHP on a very small budget considering most comparable builds which can cost double or triple tthis one !

Considering max ported irons heads are ~$1500, alum heads are only a few hundred more, but will flow 50% more air which means increased HP at a lot lower boost, and the turbo about 1/2 the price of a billet wheel, ball-bearing turbo and a flat tappet cam at least 1/4 the price of a roller, will make this a very interesting project in cost and reliability.

 

[1986 Buick GX1]

Does anyone know the crank position for the #6 exhaust?? Valve to be open?, aiding in getting the valve cover off passed the A/C box or just bump the starter until it comes off.