scanmaster mod

[Gunmetal87]

there are a few other colors that you can get, but they are usually special order.

The next issue is getting the faceplate made.

Note: I DO have one scanmaster with green LEDs and a green/gray faceplate. (one, only one......) bids....?

Bob

Do you have pics?
Would a darker grey faceplate with green LEDs match stock radio display?

 

[trixdout]

there are a few other colors that you can get, but they are usually special order.

The next issue is getting the faceplate made.

Note: I DO have one scanmaster with green LEDs and a green/gray faceplate. (one, only one......) bids....?

Bob

If I send you mine could you possible put blue led ones? I'll pay.

 

[TurboBob]

I don't have any blue LEDs, and I don't have a blue faceplate.

How badly do you want blue....?

Bob

 

[TurboBob]

Do you have pics?
Would a darker grey faceplate with green LEDs match stock radio display?

it would probably be pretty close. I don't have any pics at the moment. Perhaps next week I can take some.

 

[TurboBob]

I don't have any blue LEDs, and I don't have a blue faceplate.

How badly do you want blue....?

Bob

I just checked, I don't believe blue is available in that style LED, so blue becomes a REAL project....

 

[davelostmissing]

Typically most other 7 segment profiles are deeper, one has to modify the mcu board to create space for the display or change cases.

 

[Gunmetal87]

it would probably be pretty close. I don't have any pics at the moment. Perhaps next week I can take some.

Mouser electronics has LEDs for amount $1 a piece. I might give it a try cause there's a place where I live that will make anything you design in plastic.

 

[trixdout]

I just checked, I don't believe blue is available in that style LED, so blue becomes a REAL project....

Depends on how big of a project you would want. Also that white color led that was posted in this before is my second favorite. A clear plate would be fine with the blue LED's. Really depends on what it would cost to get blue versus white. PM sent.

 

[Pittsburghkid]

Anything new on this. I want blue.

 

[trixdout]

Anything new on this. I want blue.

pretty much found out if you did find blue display led's you would have to custom solder the pinouts to match the pinouts of the red ones in the scan master. The only color you can replace the red ones with are green ones because thats the only other color in the same pinout.

 

[Pittsburghkid]

pretty much found out if you did find blue display led's you would have to custom solder the pinouts to match the pinouts of the red ones in the scan master. The only color you can replace the red ones with are green ones because thats the only other color in the same pinout.

Interesting. I found these and were hoping they were close enough to be a direct replacement.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261165604819?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

http://www.ebay.com/itm/260936298151?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

 

[davelostmissing]

Interesting. I found these and were hoping they were close enough to be a direct replacement.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261165604819?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

http://www.ebay.com/itm/260936298151?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Pinouts appear different.

In response to messages:

Guys, its hard to answer without sounding like I'm p*ssing on someone's parade.

The OP had already hired someone to disassemble the display.
Desoldering is much harder than soldering, its a skill.
If you are interested in the hobby or developing the skill then it may be something to undertake buying the proper tools,
but you need to be prepared that you may damage/toss the thing.

Keep looking but I haven't found any blue leds with the same pinouts.
Heres the worst part: Its FAR easier to unsolder the display board than all those pins on all those 7segment displays.

No, actually HERE is the worst part: "ALL" the new 7seg displays are "deeper".
Once built the case is now too small.
I redrilled the PCB mounting holes and ground off the back of the board to make it just fit.
( PS Don't tell Bob I did this )
Now this one I could mostly solve with some rapid prototyped parts...

I considered making a kit but its not a layman's project.As a service its hard to make it compensatory.
I'm in an expensive ship to/from location on top of it.

I sent the OP a built display board after testing it on my own scanmaster.
I have yet to hear he got it working or receive reimbursement. Not real eager to go down that road again...

It is difficult to get a thin blue bezel, I think there is only one vendor with minimum quantities.
If you can find a machinist or woodworker experienced in plastic a shoulder can be machined in thicker material.
That is what I did.

I would rather buy my parts from an electronics distributor where I know I can get more of the identical part,
that they aren't seconds or have brightness variances...

 

[Pittsburghkid]

Pinouts appear different.

In response to messages:

Guys, its hard to answer without sounding like I'm p*ssing on someone's parade.

The OP had already hired someone to disassemble the display.
Desoldering is much harder than soldering, its a skill.
If you are interested in the hobby or developing the skill then it may be something to undertake buying the proper tools,
but you need to be prepared that you may damage/toss the thing.

Keep looking but I haven't found any blue leds with the same pinouts.
Heres the worst part: Its FAR easier to unsolder the display board than all those pins on all those 7segment displays.

No, actually HERE is the worst part: "ALL" the new 7seg displays are "deeper".
Once built the case is now too small.
I redrilled the PCB mounting holes and ground off the back of the board to make it just fit.
( PS Don't tell Bob I did this )
Now this one I could mostly solve with some rapid prototyped parts...

I considered making a kit but its not a layman's project.As a service its hard to make it compensatory.
I'm in an expensive ship to/from location on top of it.

I sent the OP a built display board after testing it on my own scanmaster.
I have yet to hear he got it working or receive reimbursement. Not real eager to go down that road again...

It is difficult to get a thin blue bezel, I think there is only one vendor with minimum quantities.
If you can find a machinist or woodworker experienced in plastic a shoulder can be machined in thicker material.
That is what I did.

I would rather buy my parts from an electronics distributor where I know I can get more of the identical part,
that they aren't seconds or have brightness variances...

I definitely appreciate your response. Without being able to do the electrical side of this I've already explored changing the face plate to blue to at least get a purple color. I'm still working on that. This I why I am seeking the help of someone who has already made the change with the blue LEDs I'd really rather not give this a whirl and possibly ruin a $250 piece of equipment.

I have no problem locating the required parts and ponying up for the work as long as I know it can be done and done successfully by someone who has the skills and knows how to make it work.

 

[Phoneguy]

A blue cover on a red LED will not work. Blue will block the red.

Bryan

 

[Gunmetal87]

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[GNONYX]

Here is mine mounted on the rear view mirror

 

[Boostian]

Here is mine mounted on the rear view mirror
View attachment 245851

Very clean. So many questions.

1. I assume you just extended the wires and mounted it up top. How'd you make it match the digital dash (green)?
2. That triple pillar pod seems to bolt onto the stock a-pillar. Seems like it's not sagging either. What brand?
3. What gauges are they and do they have recall? Looks like a wideband, boost/vac, and either oil or fuel pressure up top?

My next step after my intercooler is upgrading all my autometer gauges to something digital like this but I want them to match my digital dash with a nice clean look.

 

[buddy]

View attachment 245774
Cool

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[GNONYX]

Very clean. So many questions.

1. I assume you just extended the wires and mounted it up top. How'd you make it match the digital dash (green)?
2. That triple pillar pod seems to bolt onto the stock a-pillar. Seems like it's not sagging either. What brand?
3. What gauges are they and do they have recall? Looks like a wideband, boost/vac, and either oil or fuel pressure up top?

My next step after my intercooler is upgrading all my autometer gauges to something digital like this but I want them to match my digital dash with a nice clean look.

Yes I extended the wire to reach the rear view mirror location
You would have to change the LED lights, which means you have remove the red LED lights and re-solder the green LED lights, need to change one of the 16 pin resistor network to brighten the display. While removing the solder and re-soldering the LED replacement you hope you don't burn off the trace wires. Also the front plastic display lens is a different color and red or clear, I could be wrong but i think the color is gray color. I would have to remove it and see what color it is.
I believe I got the triple pillar pod at Gbodyparts; I try to install the tri pillar without the original stock a-pillar but it was showing a lot of gaps and frame metal was also being shown. So I installed the tri-pod over the original a-pillar and it fitted very well. But keep in mind since these tri-pillar are for hard tops, so I cut a piece off the top of the tri pillar to fit on to the T-Top.
My digital gauges are: Auto Meter A/F gauge in green led color, the top is green led oil pressure gauge, and the middle is boost/vac green led gauges. I'm in the process of looking to replace the boost/vac gauge since ti's off by 2.0 lbs

 

[Boostian]

Yes I extended the wire to reach the rear view mirror location
You would have to change the LED lights, which means you have remove the red LED lights and re-solder the green LED lights, need to change one of the 16 pin resistor network to brighten the display. While removing the solder and re-soldering the LED replacement you hope you don't burn off the trace wires. Also the front plastic display lens is a different color and red or clear, I could be wrong but i think the color is gray color. I would have to remove it and see what color it is.
I believe I got the triple pillar pod at Gbodyparts; I try to install the tri pillar without the original stock a-pillar but it was showing a lot of gaps and frame metal was also being shown. So I installed the tri-pod over the original a-pillar and it fitted very well. But keep in mind since these tri-pillar are for hard tops, so I cut a piece off the top of the tri pillar to fit on to the T-Top.
My digital gauges are: Auto Meter A/F gauge in green led color, the top is green led oil pressure gauge, and the middle is boost/vac green led gauges. I'm in the process of looking to replace the boost/vac gauge since ti's off by 2.0 lbs

Thank you for the response. I'm going to look into changing the SM LED's and those gauges

The gauge pod, is it just the three pod holder or is it the entire pillar? I have a hard top and wanted three gauges but was told that the three pods all sag. Yours seems to be a different style and seems to work real well.