Setting up Distributer/crank trigger for xfi?

[Cheeseburger]

Well i am trying to figure this out, i have all but one reluctor off the reluctor wheel, the advance is locked out.
I read that you need to drill and tap for a set screw on the reluctor, mine is factory siliconed? in place and there is a keyway on the shaft, do i need to break the seal and move the reluctor at some point?
The more i read about this the more i seem to get confused................

Step by step procedure would be great as this is my first attept at installing a distributer and msd crank trigger wheel set up.

Thanks in Advance.

 

[S2V6RACER]

Typically you want to set up the cam sync at 60 degrees BTDC on the #1 cylinder firing sequence. You have to set the rotor phase 1st and then roll the engine back to 60 degrees BTDC and the tab should be centered over the pickup in the distributor.

You will have to pull the shaft and pull the reluctor off to do this. You drill and tap a set screw and re-assemble the distributor and lock the tab in place as described above. You will break off all other tabs and make sure they are sanded smooth so there is no chance of false triggering.

The classic FAST and BS3 are looking for cam sync to be as described above. The XFI is a little more forgiving and can be programmed by telling it which cylinder cam sync precedes.

The final step is to confirm cam sync. The BS3 pulls up cam/crk advance and mine shows 12 degrees which means 62 degrees BTDC and my crank reference is at 50, I shot my timing on #1 with a light and retarded in my individual timing table to confirm in my initial setup. Do not assume anything until you prove everything is right with a timing light.

 

[Cheeseburger]

Thanks very much Ted for the explanation, so am i to understand that with XFI i do not have to pull the reluctor off as i can tell the computer when cylinder cam sync precedes?
Also in regards to the crank trigger, is it correct to line up the magnet/steel at 50 degrees BTDC?
I have a problem as centering the magnet/steel is not possible because the od of the balancer is larger then the od of the trigger wheel, is close good enough or is centering critical?
I can center it somewhat but then my airgap would be way too big!
Or i can grind some of the thread off of the pickup if need be.

TIA.

 

[S2V6RACER]

I know what you are going through with "centering" the pickup. Get it as close as possible while maintaining some clearance to the balancer. I have two different crank triggers from MSD, one the threads were recessed back from the tip of the sensor the other was not. I cleaned up the end of the one without and made it the best it could be to maintain the dimensions MSD recommended and a air gap between the balancer with the crank thrust pushed forward. I guess if your thrust bearing goes this will give you a indication also!!!

You must still remove all but 1 reluctor with the XFI, but from my understanding it is not critical to have it at 60 BTDC on any of the cylinders you tell the system it is preceding. If you do not remove the reluctors the ECU will flash a cam sync code because it will realize it is getting a cam sync signal when it is not supposed to.


The reason this is different with the BS3 is because the ECU is not even looking for a cam sync unless it's within the window it expects it. This eliminates the possibility of electrical interference triggering a false cam sync if the ECU it's not looking for it outside the window.

 

[Cheeseburger]

You must still remove all but 1 reluctor with the XFI, but from my understanding it is not critical to have it at 60 BTDC on any of the cylinders you tell the system it is preceding. If you do not remove the reluctors the ECU will flash a cam sync code because it will realize it is getting a cam sync signal when it is not supposed to.

Sorry to have confused the situation, i have already removed all but one relutor.
My concern was having to twist the reluctor off its current position as it is held in place with the factory silicone or glue and then have to set screw it in it's final position.
From what i am gathering i should not have to do this with an XFI because i can input the position it comes in on the computer. If i am understanding this correctly.......

 

[lazaris]

Sorry to have confused the situation, i have already removed all but one relutor.
My concern was having to twist the reluctor off its current position as it is held in place with the factory silicone or glue and then have to set screw it in it's final position.
From what i am gathering i should not have to do this with an XFI because i can input the position it comes in on the computer. If i am understanding this correctly.......

That is correct.

 

[Dusty Bradford]

Sorry to have confused the situation, i have already removed all but one relutor.
My concern was having to twist the reluctor off its current position as it is held in place with the factory silicone or glue and then have to set screw it in it's final position.
From what i am gathering i should not have to do this with an XFI because i can input the position it comes in on the computer. If i am understanding this correctly.......

That is correct. If you broke the wrong reluctors off you can correct the issue by just telling XFI which cylinder the signal precedes. To make sure you have everything right, you can then put your timing light and check the timing on #1. Go into the individual cylinder controls. Retard timing 10 degrees on #1 and re-check the timing to #1. If it dropped 10 degrees of timing you have the right #'s in the system.

 

[GARY HARVEY]

Which Crank Trigger?

Dusty,

Of the available triggers, which (one) would you suggest for overall ease of setup?

Thanks,
Gary

 

[Dusty Bradford]

Other than the stock trigger. I only have experience with the MSD set-up which I prefer. We use the stock system on the TSM car and Todd put the MSD system on the TSO car. I hear the MSD system is discontinued.