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Shurflo 2687 no longer available? - and other methanol injection questions

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"Mr." Razor - can you take a peek at this?

http://members.shaw.ca/saaboteur/spg-meth-inj-diagram.jpg

The wiring for my proposed system. My electrical skills are completely hopeless. If someone tells me EXACTLY what to do, I can do it. But fathoming things is a bit over my head. Okay, so after installing my own stand alone system and wiring up just about everything in the car, I'm a bit better than that, but I still worry about doing new stuff.

The relay 'convention' of grounding to make the thing work is just in keeping with how my SDS and other relays are set up. I thought I'd be consistent.

Now the one last question I have is if there is a way to turn the LEDs on by grounding them (unlike in my proposed diagram).

Thanks again. Next I'm going to tackle finding a suitable reservoir. My engine builder suggested I head to the local self serve boneyard and find some GM AC units that have nice, thin wall aluminum cylinders, then make something from those - but you're against aluminum?
 
Your 30 and 85 on the relay can go together, tho I would connect those to an ignition source, not straight to the battery. The LED will need to have a resistor added or get one with a built in resistor. The reason is it takes approx 2vdc to lite an LED, you apply 12vdc..it will burn out.. unless a resistor is used. For a suitable resistor.. use a 1k ohm 1/4 watt available at Radio Shack or get an LED designed for use with 12vdc.

Also I would put a fuse in line, in the range of 15amps max, this will assure if the wiring gets any issue, the fuse will pop not hurting the electrical. Use 14-16 guage wiring throughout and solder your connections with heat shrink tubing. Then adjust your out via the pressure screw on the pump, while playing with your hobbs switch for your turnon point.

Alcohol is corrossive to aluminum. period. Unless the tank is anodized internaly and the anodize hasnt come off. It will turn white and corrode. Not a compatible metal.

Again.. plastic is your friend. Or use stainless/brass for metals. Dont believe me, get some alcohol, and put a piece of metal in it and let it sit for a couple weeks..its almost like salt water. The corrosion can form debris which can clog a nozzle. Better solution, measure your space, and go to the boneyard looking for plastic containers. Then write down the vehicle it came on, go and get a new tank from the MFG of the donor vehicle. Try and get as close to 1 gallon, if possible. larger displacement vehicles have larger tanks.

HTH
 
Thanks again for the input. That diagram was a bit basic. I'm aware of the need for resistors...I just...uh...neglected to put them in the diagram...yeah, that's right... :)

My 30 and 85 on the relay are actually already set up, along with the rest of the wiring. When I ordered my SDS, I had it equipped with the optional 'supercharger' relay, which is basically just extra pressure sensitive circuitry in the ECU. But then last summer I decided to have that circuitry swapped out - wanted to run a more sophisticated 'water' injection system, and have the ECU trigger a shift light instead. Whatever. Now I'm back to square one and will run a hobbs switch, so there goes my sophistication theory.

I took extra care in the install of my SDS. Every single wire that I laid is soldered and shrink wrapped. Took me forever. But quite a feat that it all worked! :)

Next question - can your universal or mini overflow tanks accommodate a level sender? Price with the sender? Am I correct in assuming that the mini is about 10"x2" and that it can be mounted nearly any which way, vertical or horizontal?
 
Saaboteur,
If you want specifics on products I sell, please contact me off list. My email is in my profile as well as on my website. I try and keep the issue of assistance with injection and my business separate. To answer the tank question, the answer is yes. For more details.. off the forum ;)

Great you spent time on the wiring, the reward is you wont have a connection issue.
 
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