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bison

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Staff member
TurboBuick.Com Supporter!
Joined
Dec 19, 2005
Messages
18,053
When installing any aftermarket component it is critical to verify exactly what's being installed. I've seen numerous threads regarding slow spooling and not enough information given about the problem . Sometimes installing a new part will cause another part to not work as designed and the problem go away when the other part re-installed even though the real problem was the new part that was just installed! Here's an example of an issue that was easily caught because of verifying what's going back on the car. Stock turbo puck not sealing. Witness mark is from the stock elbow and not the problem swing valve. You can clearly see it wasn't sealing on the stock turbo.

zy6u5uha.jpg


Here's the problem:
Blob of weld was sticking up above the surface of the puck. You can see where it was hanging up on the edge of the hole.
ane9udev.jpg


Here's the witness mark on the turbo that's about to be installed. Notice it's not to good. Unacceptable and you can see that the blob is hitting the edge of the hole on this new turbo:

ena6yhaz.jpg


vegyqajy.jpg


After playing with the dp a little and opening the hole up:

ysamuvuh.jpg


Would someone expect a $500 pipe to work correctly with no problems? I personally don't expect anything aftermarket to bolt on and work like the stock stuff and everything needs to be checked. When the car doesn't perform the way it should who's fault is it? Has the problem been properly identified? If yes what was done to correct it? Sometimes there's several things wrong. This car had a large crack around the number 5 ex tube and still had the intact factory cat converter. You could drink a coffee waiting for it to spool.

Cracked manifold:
etudeqyb.jpg
ja9a3asu.jpg
hema9yja.jpg









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Ha! I think I have that header's long lost twin brother laying around the shop somewhere ;)
 
The money is almost always in the details. While it makes the car frustrating to some, it's also then more rewarding for those that can sort them out correctly. Great write up and thanks for the info.
 
I purchased a set of new aftermarket headers for about $750 and they required a lot of work to get them correct. There was a blob of weld material in #6 runner and I had to cut my own spark plug socket reliefs. They have not been ran yet. I'm sure more gators will show up at my garage. They always do!
 
Here is another example. This was with a brand new RJC pipe with the monster puck. Wouldn't think there would be a problem sealing the port. Guess again.

IMG_0794.JPG


After some precise welding, porting and resurfacing, this is what I ended up with.

IMG_0795.JPG


This turbo would not spool to save it's life. Needless to say it was a different animal once I fixed the problem. Unless you are really in tune to how all this works something like this would go unnoticed and never get fixed.


Rick
 
Last edited:
When installing any aftermarket component it is critical to verify exactly what's being installed. I've seen numerous threads regarding slow spooling and not enough information given about the problem . Sometimes installing a new part will cause another part to not work as designed and the problem go away when the other part re-installed even though the real problem was the new part that was just installed! Here's an example of an issue that was easily caught because of verifying what's going back on the car. Stock turbo puck not sealing. Witness mark is from the stock elbow and not the problem swing valve. You can clearly see it wasn't sealing on the stock turbo.

zy6u5uha.jpg


Here's the problem:
Blob of weld was sticking up above the surface of the puck. You can see where it was hanging up on the edge of the hole.
ane9udev.jpg


Here's the witness mark on the turbo that's about to be installed. Notice it's not to good. Unacceptable and you can see that the blob is hitting the edge of the hole on this new turbo:

ena6yhaz.jpg


vegyqajy.jpg


After playing with the dp a little and opening the hole up:

ysamuvuh.jpg


Would someone expect a $500 pipe to work correctly with no problems? I personally don't expect anything aftermarket to bolt on and work like the stock stuff and everything needs to be checked. When the car doesn't perform the way it should who's fault is it? Has the problem been properly identified? If yes what was done to correct it? Sometimes there's several things wrong. This car had a large crack around the number 5 ex tube and still had the intact factory cat converter. You could drink a coffee waiting for it to spool.

Cracked manifold:
etudeqyb.jpg
ja9a3asu.jpg
hema9yja.jpg









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Sounds like they just need to THROW more PARTS at it .. that ALWAYS makes things better :)
 
If folks would put the same effort into their turbos as they do short blocks and cylinder heads there would be more celebration
 
Nice write up Brain. Havent had too much trouble out of my GN lately. Got some minor (and not too difficult) things to do, just have no time right now. Fixed my lean condition issues, BOTH headers were cracked. Drivers side (which had been welded four time) was cracked around the bottom where the flange is, not where it was welded. Pass side was completely blown out on the back side where #4 port comes in. Went to TAs and absolutely no issues at all. Car runs great now. Hopefully it helped with my high IDC issue too, but havent had time to mess with that. Car runs good on the new turbo. Hoping for a
 
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