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SMC Kits.... no 3 bar MAP?

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A 3 bar, or any other, for that matter, has to have the atmos psi subtracted from it's coverage range.
3 bar has to cover atmos, thus it's fairly accurate to an added 2 bars of boost.
Same goes for a 2 bar, or even a 1 bar.....

At 26# boost, that's just short of 2 bars. Add the atmos psi in, and the 3 bar is getting close to the top of it's range...

Sounds just like sucba diving physics!
 
I am not sure what's in either "kit" but you can design alky. systems using strain gauge pressure transducers that don't use/read vacuum at all.

They are rated in psi. or bar above atmospheric pressure.

They go from 0-whatever boost (psi.) you need.

So a 3 bar rated system pressure transducer could be rated to 42-44psi. in theory.

Consult with your manufacturer for their exact specifications.

You don't need to read vacuum with an alky. kit.
 
I have owned SMC kit since it first came out and it has performed well. I currently have the progressive controller and I have not had any problems.
 
smc progressive just went low 10's again here on the west coast, many around the nation have been 9's with it :)
SMC is also proven alky and works hands down!
Easier to install and has duel nozzle progressive incar controller too.
They really are both good kits.

but i got a razors :) size does matter, at least thats wat the ladies say ;). if SMC small works hands down then bigger
hands down dominates. I feel safer dominating haha, my GN1r's also feel safer.

darkside

please tell us who has gone 9's!!!!!!!!!!!!!

with a SMC kit!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

thanks JD:eek:
 
I'm trying to compare the SMC kit to AlkyControl. I'm wondering why the AlkyControl kit includes a 3 Bar Sensor while the SMC doesn't, yet they both claim to be able to do the same thing.

I know everyone will say "just go with Razor and stop the guess work", but frankly I'm freakin poor right now, $530 would be a lot for me to spend.

I KNOW 530 IS A LOT OF MONEY!!!!! PLUS 130 DOLLAR DIFFERENCE GOES ALONG WAY WITH RAZORS KIT. I THINK YOU WILL KICK YOURSELF FOR NOT GETTING IT. IF YOUO PLAN ON RUNNING RACE GAS WHICH IS ALOT OF MONEY THEN I WOULD CHARGE THE KIT AND PUT THE RACE GAS MONEY TOWARD THE CARD :)
 
The alkycontrol pump on a 15 GPH nozzle will hit 250 PSI. on Alcohol will hit 200 PSI.

If you have a 3 bar already, in the case of a MafPro, FAST, Accel, BS3, ME-r, etc... then you dont need to run an additional one.

Fastest 109 Buick with a stock turbo/longblock is 11.37
Fastest 109 Buick on pump gas/drag radials is a 10.10
Fastest 109 Buick on C16 and alky is a 9.59

All have my system and support. You always get what you pay for. Good luck.
 
Is that 10.10 on Melissas GN (Grumpy)? Dang, didn't know she was running DR's!:eek: Guess I'll ditch the idea of needing slicks!
 
Yeah it looks like I'll go with alky control. I don't mind spending more money as long as it's justified, which is why I came here to find out if there really was any difference between the two.
 
I am not sure what's in either "kit" but you can design alky. systems using strain gauge pressure transducers that don't use/read vacuum at all.

They are rated in psi. or bar above atmospheric pressure.

They go from 0-whatever boost (psi.) you need.

So a 3 bar rated system pressure transducer could be rated to 42-44psi. in theory.

Consult with your manufacturer for their exact specifications.

You don't need to read vacuum with an alky. kit.

Vacuum reading is implied by all sensors that are 'absolute' meaning they have internal sealed references at true 0, not atmospheric 14.xx psi. A gage pressure transducer will read the differential between atmospheric and the signal port since the ref port is left 'open.' The gage and differential sensors are actually the same item, but usually the gage sensors dont bother with having an accessible port for the ref.

The transducers I use will read vacuum to over 50psi abs depending on application since they are 'absolute' types. I have tried each and I prefer the abs since altitudes will vary a gage sensor's reading. Calibrating this to a change in alky is practically impossible with no actual real-time pressure feedback to the controller since the pump is indirectly 'properly' injecting alky. I have feedback pressure sensor for the alky pressure line for my personal controller (because more feedback is great for everything except audio amps lol), but no one but me and 4 others would pay for a mil-spec industrial alky-compatible pressure sensor that offers actual PRESSURE CONTROL :eek: in a kit for sale to public. Especially since this kind of accuracy and reliability is deemed wasteful for ppl that are already going 10's with the $500 kits on the market!
 
Is that 10.10 on Melissas GN (Grumpy)? Dang, didn't know she was running DR's!:eek: Guess I'll ditch the idea of needing slicks!

raced just like she drives it on the street :cool: after running a 10.10 she left the track to get coffee in the car ... people were shaking their heads :p
 
I like the gauge sensors since they track boost above atmosphere just like it's produced by the motor. ;)

I got mine at Newark for $20 and assembled with +5 supply and filter caps. it's about $25 invested.

More accurate than a 3 bar map as well. :cool:

I also like the idea of high pressure sensors in the important feed line, more from a diagnostic or failsafe point of view, but hey, if you have an accurate sensor that can be used in the feedback loop for more accurate control why not? :cool:

I like the KR based controller failsafe I made just don't have that "race car" motor that needs a Shurflo or Flojet just yet to bother installing it. :p

Still in the stock block 11 second range with old EFI pumps in the bottle.

No real reason to switch to anything else just yet, other than peer pressure perhaps. :eek: :p :rolleyes:
 
DIY'ers are great!

Persons don't learn anything unless they actually do stuff for themselves! This new day in age, ppl tend not to try instead of just goin for it.

The gage sensor doesn't 'track' the engines pressure like the ECU's MAP. The GM MAPs are absolute so a change in ATM isn't sucked out of the reading like a gauge/differential sensor does. BTW, Newark doesn't have very good prices on MAPs. I think I got those types from Arrow for very cheap... But this date, just check the honchos: Digikey, Mouser, NewarkinOne, Arrow, Allied, Antique Electronic Supply (j/k) ... And I've found doing the instrumentation amplifier with external ICs might save you $2 tops... just buy the dang amplified units... heck i've got these SMT MAPs (amplified) that are no bigger than half a nickel!

But for all intensive purposes it really doesn't matter. I've used both. I like the ABS since I can use them during vac and boost... which is nice if you are using it to monitor other things and for the supercharged cars where boost turns on much lower, or used for intracoolin. The ABSolUtES also kinda self account... but only SLIGHTLY skewing it. Closer to sea level = denser air = more atmospheric pressure.... The change is very small though unless you drive your car up McKinley.

Phil
 
DIY'ers are great!

Persons don't learn anything unless they actually do stuff for themselves! This new day in age, ppl tend not to try instead of just goin for it.Phil

hahahaha... I could see me doin a DIY set up now ... BOOM :eek: I just couldn't be bothered like most people in here .. systems work great as a plug and play ... :cool: I know nothing about this and don't wanna know.. brain is full of other useless stuff as it is :D
 
I have two SMC progressive kits...they work very well. Nice digital controllers and very easy to install.
 
I have had both SMC and Alkycontrol units before, so I guess I speak of experience.

Steve was nice to talk to on the other end of the phone, but Julio will give priceless information with the ongoing testing he is putting his own car through.

I had the pleasure of racing with Julio every other week and his dedication and knowlege is what sold me. I think we all had SMC at one time or another....Julio just improved it by 1000%
 
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