so how hot is too hot?

[daturbosix]

cruisin with my air on, on a hot summers day, its not uncommon for mine to reach 210+

its usually at that point that i turn the air off and roll the windows down and just deal with it.

 

[slimtastic]

mine rarely will get over 174 in the heat....but if it does i put her on "wide open throttle lockdown"

 

[in the elevens]

Temps

mine rarely will get over 174 in the heat....but if it does i put her on "wide open throttle lockdown"

In the Orlando Hot Sun i run No more than 185 in traffic but im running dual fans...

 

[HelloBozos]

cruisin with my air on, on a hot summers day, its not uncommon for mine to reach 210+

its usually at that point that i turn the air off and roll the windows down and just deal with it.

GNX Fender Mod Time...heh..I'm behind Universal Stuido's, i feel your Heat!!

Enjoy!

 

[daturbosix]

upon further thought, i forget if i even have a thermostat in the car... lol...
and i should add, that im runnign water in my car.

hmmm

 

[williamsGN]

You need a thermostat or you will run hot.. .also get some RMI-25 and you'll run cooler

 

[GNVYUS 1]

You haven't mentioned your current cooling system parts, stock fan, rad etc?

If you have an FMIC with the stock rad and fan you're doing better than I'd have thought in that heat with the AC on.

Running straight water is a horrible idea in this situation, you're already near the boiling temp. Add some coolant to move that boiling temp up to give you some head room and lets figure out how to get you down below the 200's with the air on.

I'm sure you've heard the Camaro Radiator, Ram Fans and some RMI-25 are the best bang for the buck for us.

 

[Red C5]

Get that thermostat back in there. Your radiator could be plugged a bit so clean it out as well.

 

[dvernst]

You haven't mentioned your current cooling system parts, stock fan, rad etc?

If you have an FMIC with the stock rad and fan you're doing better than I'd have thought in that heat with the AC on.

Running straight water is a horrible idea in this situation, you're already near the boiling temp. Add some coolant to move that boiling temp up to give you some head room and lets figure out how to get you down below the 200's with the air on.

I'm sure you've heard the Camaro Radiator, Ram Fans and some RMI-25 are the best bang for the buck for us.

If the cooling system is operating correctly, and is building pressure with heat doesn't that raise the boiling point?

 

[daturbosix]

You haven't mentioned your current cooling system parts, stock fan, rad etc?

If you have an FMIC with the stock rad and fan you're doing better than I'd have thought in that heat with the AC on.

Running straight water is a horrible idea in this situation, you're already near the boiling temp. Add some coolant to move that boiling temp up to give you some head room and lets figure out how to get you down below the 200's with the air on.

I'm sure you've heard the Camaro Radiator, Ram Fans and some RMI-25 are the best bang for the buck for us.

ive got a aluminum dual row aftermarket radiator. and yes, a stock fan.
im gonna go pick up some water wetter and toss that in with some fresh water.

 

[22lbChevelle]

If a car is missing the thermostat it wont overheat, it will never get UP to temp.

And I have touched 240 on my daily driver numerous times due to a screw on my fan repeatedly poking holes in an old radiator. That is all fixed now. I have not seen any ill effects due to the over heating.

 

[Phoneguy]

ive got a aluminum dual row aftermarket radiator. and yes, a stock fan.
im gonna go pick up some water wetter and toss that in with some fresh water.

Make sure that there are no air gaps between the radiator and the fan shroud. Pipe insulation works great to make a gasket all the way around the shroud, this cheap fix will make your fan pull more air through the radiator, made a big difference on mine for a couple of bucks.

Bryan

 

[Mr.Spool]

i upgraded the radiator and kept the stock fan and with a front mount run 160-180.today it hit 97 degrees and the car saw 185.sometimes buying expensive parts pays off,70/30 on the coolant side.

 

[GNVYUS 1]

True, the pressurized cap will raise the boiling point of the water, but most run 70/30 so this boiling point is never reached and headgaskets etc are never compromised that one day your fans crap out on you and you forget to look down at your temps to pull over asap (I know from experience ).

The stock fan with Summer Heat and AC has a long battle ahead of it, that's arguably more important than the radiator as long as the stock core was still good. Water Wetter isn't going to suck more air through your rad core, and if you have an FMIC on the car you're screwed even more.

 

[streetknight]

was just fixing to post a similar thread, so I'll just post my ?'s here. I've been tinkering with a car for a friend. I replaced all the hoses and put a new 160 thermostat in it. I drove it around a little bit and it seemed to be running in the 180 range while driving. I went to WOT for a couple seconds so I could see where the boost was since I'm doing multiple things to the car. It was about a mile back to the house and I noticed the car was sitting on 200 when I pulled it back in the garage.

Now I know I had just went WOT and I am in north GA and it was in the mid 90's today. However, my own GN never gets above 180 in the same scenario.

The car in ? is completely stock.

Any Ideas?

 

[TurboBuRick]

Something to check

Pull the overflow tube off the radiator. Grab the upper radiator hose and squeeze it. If you get coolant out the tube port, the radiator cap is bad. Fill system and replace the cap.

If you have a alky kit with a clear tube on the overflow, you can do the sqeeze test and just look at the tube.

9 out of 10 TB's I see have bad caps. Even new caps can have issues. I got a couple brand new ones that were bad so check them to.

Factory cap is 16lb.

 

[pacecarta]

Pull the overflow tube off the radiator. Grab the upper radiator hose and squeeze it. If you get coolant out the tube port, the radiator cap is bad. Fill system and replace the cap.

.

a cap that allow fluid to move when cool isn't necessarily a bad cap , this is only true at temp , cooled down the poppet will hang free to allow recovery from the tank back into the radiator. as the rad cools the air inside shrinks and it pulls a light vacuum refilling the rad as well the recovery tank fill line is level with the rads proper fill level so gravity also aids in recovery .

If the cooling system is operating correctly, and is building pressure with heat doesn't that raise the boiling point?

and antirfeeze is anti freeze , its there to prevent freezing does little to prevent boil over , its the pressure in the system that gives you the ability to run a liquid over 212degrees at 50% the boiling point is 225, at 70 % its 240
these boiling temps are at atmoshere ...

for every psi of rad pressure the boiling point of the liquid , even straight water, goes up . it goes up approx 3degF for each psi , so water that boils at 212 will still be water at 260 if the rad is holding 16psi

if you cap doesnt hold pressure youll boil water at 212 and antifreeze mix wont be far behind ,

and glycol antifreeze doenst transmit heat as well as water
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethylene_glycol

 

[TurboBuRick]

a cap that allow fluid to move when cool isn't necessarily a bad cap , this is only true at temp , cooled down the poppet will hang free to allow recovery from the tank back into the radiator. as the rad cools the air inside shrinks and it pulls a light vacuum refilling the rad as well the recovery tank fill line is level with the rads proper fill level so gravity also aids in recovery .

I didn't think the poppet was suppose to hang free. I returned a cap for just that reason. The poppet should be slightly spring loaded.

 

[charlief1]

I didn't think the poppet was suppose to hang free. I returned a cap for just that reason. The poppet should be slightly spring loaded.

Not on a GM product. It's designed so that it will suck coolant into the system and out of the puke tank. Chrysler used one that was spring loaded. The catch to the unloaded popet is that if it's spring loaded then the system will pressureize regardless. If you're low on fluid it will still cool up to a point but if it over heats then it it turns into a very dangerous steam bath.

 

[TurboBuRick]

Not on a GM product. It's designed so that it will suck coolant into the system and out of the puke tank. Chrysler used one that was spring loaded. The catch to the unloaded popet is that if it's spring loaded then the system will pressureize regardless. If you're low on fluid it will still cool up to a point but if it over heats then it it turns into a very dangerous steam bath.

Regardless of what? You want the system to hold pressure. No?

The poppet is basically a check valve. It's suppose to let fluid in not out.