Sooo whats up with PTE??

[slimtastic]

Are the boys at PTE having quality control issues or somthing of the like? cause my billet wheelJB 6262 has about 2000 miles onit and is already giving me a puff of oil smoke after engine deceleration. im not even beating on it as im waiting for new valvesprings.....but sure enough everyother time i have engine braking from a brisk mid throttle advance, right when i get to about idle a little oil puff of smoke will occure for about 15 secinds then stop. my car even has a tial 50mm to knock out the turbo chatter



i had a older ta-66 for years by PTE and i ran the PI$$ out of that turbo and i NEVER had a problem.....ever

what gives? anybody know what pts's warrenty is?

 

[slimtastic]

just kinda pissed me off cause im trying to finish off my combo and and run som good power thought the summer, but if i keep getting fits with this motor i might just part it out and fund my 520 BBC...which i dont wanna do really


if it aint breaking it aint a buick!



now im done with my rant, its beer thirty

 

[garyk1970]

Welcome to Turbo buicks.....lol.....its all worth it when you get the timeslip or kill your looking for.on a technical note, do you see any oil in uppipe? You its sure its the Turbo? PVC system?

 

[slimtastic]

the uppipe is all dry and my pcv isnt routed back into the intake. its just vented outside with a pair of breathers and no intake vacume

 

[bison]

Check the return. I'd also hook the pcv up temporariliy since it will pull vacuum in the crank case which is highest when you have the smoking problem. Might not be the turbo. I've posted about this before there is nothing to positively seal the turbo. It's a piston ring design that relies on a slinging action to keepboil from entering the ex and intake side. If it's getting in the ex and there is no excessive thrust play then the turbine end could be carboned up preventing the slinger from working properly.

 

[JT'sV6]

I run a bottle of marvel through my engine every other oil change. I've had problembs with smoking on other turbo cars I've owned and it's always been a drain back issue.

 

[BEATAV8]

If it's the turbo, you will find oil in and around the compressor cover coming from behind the compressor wheel, and/or oil in the turbine housing coming from behind the turbine wheel and all over the turbine heat shield (which is located behind the turbine wheel).

Even if you find that kind of oil mess, it still doesn't mean the turbo seal rings are shot. Oil leaking from a "healthy" turbocharger is almost always caused by high crankcase pressure or restricted oil drain.

The turbo seals are simply small piston rings. They're designed to work with a favorable pressure differential, meaning pressure is always pushing oil into the turbo center section. If the pressure differential becomes unfavorable, the seals will leak but that does not mean they are bad. It just means that the pressure differential is messed up!

A turbine seal can "relax" it's spring tension if it overheated and heat soaked (like a hot shutdown). That can cause the seal to leak a little bit easier than it normally would, but even then it will only leak when the pressure differential across the seal allows it.

 

[TR Custom Parts]

If it is a ball bearing turbo how much oil can really be going down the turbo drain? With that restrictor I wouldn't think it would overwhelm the drain flow capacity.

 

[rmar]

If it is a ball bearing turbo how much oil can really be going down the turbo drain? With that restrictor I wouldn't think it would overwhelm the drain flow capacity.

Believe it or not, if the supply line has too much volume (even with the restrictor) it will overwhelm the seal ring.
I had to go to a #4 supply line to make it stop.

 

[chriss4655]

I have a similar issue . I could see oil leaking out from where the exhaust housing and center section are bolted together. Took the turbo off and removed the exhaust housing and there was a fare bit of oil in the exhaust area. Check the return line and it is clear, pcv system farly new with a check valve from Kirbins. Took the turbo to a local performace turbo shop and they said there is too much play in the bearings. This is a new te44 with about 2500 miles on it. Out of warrenty because I got in 2009 ,the car is only driven in the spring and summer, I notice the oil leak only because I start the car a few time a month the keep everything happy.

 

[slimtastic]

Believe it or not, if the supply line has too much volume (even with the restrictor) it will overwhelm the seal ring.
I had to go to a #4 supply line to make it stop.

im running a stock supply line to my 6262. its a journal bearing, ive never heard of running a restrictor in a JB turbo

 

[bison]

Believe it or not, if the supply line has too much volume (even with the restrictor) it will overwhelm the seal ring.
I had to go to a #4 supply line to make it stop.

The smallest cross sectional area in the oil feed will still be the restrictor whether its the line or whatever fitting/restrictors are in the bearing housing. You cant change the volume through the restrictor by changing to a smaller feed unless the cross section of the feed line is less than that of the restrictor. Therefore the line size probably doesnt matter at all since the cross section through the restrictors is much less than a -4. The volume increases when the oil gets hot and loses viscosity. But the oil drains faster after its hot also. It is true that if the bearing housing and or bearings are worn excess oil leakage past them could overwhelm the return.

 

[bison]

im running a stock supply line to my 6262. its a journal bearing, ive never heard of running a restrictor in a JB turbo

This is correct. The fitting that threads into the bearing housing or the fitting on the block is likely the restrictor in that setup

 

[chriss4655]

I too run the stock feed line, I have a braided supply line from G body that the ID of the line is much smaller , when i get my turbo back from it check up and if the problem is still there I will try the other braided supply line! Never a dull moment

 

[rmar]

The smallest cross sectional area in the oil feed will still be the restrictor whether its the line or whatever fitting/restrictors are in the bearing housing. You cant change the volume through the restrictor by changing to a smaller feed unless the cross section of the feed line is less than that of the restrictor. Therefore the line size probably doesnt matter at all since the cross section through the restrictors is much less than a -4. The volume increases when the oil gets hot and loses viscosity. But the oil drains faster after its hot also. It is true that if the bearing housing and or bearings are worn excess oil leakage past them could overwhelm the return.

Brian, I was under the same assumption. but when I installed a brand new 6765DBB billet wheel with the old PTE turbo saver line #6.
i was spraying the neighborhood for mosquitoes. If you remember you and I Pm'd a little about this and I agreed with you.
But after checking the drain and trying a larger drain no luck. Sent the turbo in and they went thru it. Put it back on and the same thing...... That's when Patrick had me drop line size. I didn't get it but it worked. Car has about 80 lbs on start up. All things being the same the only thing that affected the issue was the line size change.

 

[slimtastic]

so assuming that the drain back is clear, im guessing i should knock down the line size or install a larger restrictor?

 

[turbolou]

Reply

Brian, I was under the same assumption. but when I installed a brand new 6765DBB billet wheel with the old PTE turbo saver line #6.
i was spraying the neighborhood for mosquitoes. If you remember you and I Pm'd a little about this and I agreed with you.
But after checking the drain and trying a larger drain no luck. Sent the turbo in and they went thru it. Put it back on and the same thing...... That's when Patrick had me drop line size. I didn't get it but it worked. Car has about 80 lbs on start up. All things being the same the only thing that affected the issue was the line size change.

Too much oil pressure is a good point. If the oil pump has been rebuilt & the 70# blue spring has been used I would switch to the 60# yellow. Another issue is the engine shedding any metal internally. Is something coming apart & getting in the turbo.

 

[TType85]

When I got my TA-6262dbb a few months ago Patrick had me step down to the -4 line from the turbo saver. I only have a few miles on it since my transmission took a dump but no smoke.

 

[bison]

Brian, I was under the same assumption. but when I installed a brand new 6765DBB billet wheel with the old PTE turbo saver line #6.
i was spraying the neighborhood for mosquitoes. If you remember you and I Pm'd a little about this and I agreed with you.
But after checking the drain and trying a larger drain no luck. Sent the turbo in and they went thru it. Put it back on and the same thing...... That's when Patrick had me drop line size. I didn't get it but it worked. Car has about 80 lbs on start up. All things being the same the only thing that affected the issue was the line size change.

Its not an assumption on my part. If you have two identical orifices (aka restrictions) with equal cross sectional area such as .100 sq. in. and you have equal pressures on both sides of the orifices and the viscosity of the fluid flowing through them is the same then the flow rate is going to be the same. It doesnt matter if you feed with a -12 or a -3. The smallest cross sectional area (which in this instance is the .100 sq in orifice) and the feed pressure/viscosity of the fluid will determine the flow rate if everything else is controlled. Not the size of the feed line unless it itself is the restriction. If it was it would need to have cross sectional area less than .100 sq. in. in this example.

 

[rmar]

I agree totally...........But I did it any way and it fixed it....Doesn't make a bit of sense.