Spark blow out problem

[GBGN1]

Anyone have good luck changing plugs and getting rid of blow out. My we4 specs are in the sig. Already have autolite 103's. Had car on dyno. With gap at 35 or so full throttle boost only 4000rpms. Tightened gap to around 20 and was able to
boost at full throttle til 5200 Rpms. Anyone have luck with other plugs in the gn1's? Motor has less than 30 miles, so new build.

 

[fastblackracing]

Anyone have good luck changing plugs and getting rid of blow out. My we4 specs are in the sig. Already have autolite 103's. Had car on dyno. With gap at 35 or so full throttle boost only 4000rpms. Tightened gap to around 20 and was able to
boost at full throttle til 5200 Rpms. Anyone have luck with other plugs in the gn1's?

How much boost are you running?...... I have a very similar build and with a known good coil pack and new msd 8.5 wires was able to run 30# to 6600 rpm.......auto lite 103 @ .030. I am going to figure out which ngk plug to use and try them also. Looking for better readability on the plugs.

 

[turbobitt]

What I would tell anyone who wants to successfully run high boost is to make sure your ignition module is hot wired and not going through the factory crappy wiring. Anything you can do to boost the voltage going in will help what's coming out.
AG.


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[GBGN1]

How much boost are you running?...... I have a very similar build and with a known good coil pack and new msd 8.5 wires was able to run 30# to 6600 rpm.......auto lite 103 @ .030. I am going to figure out which ngk plug to use and try them also. Looking for better readability on the plugs.

20-22lbs of boost and it hits a wall. Looking to run closer to 30lbs also.
I've got a newer ac delco coil and module on it but I'm going to swap to a different one.

 

[GBGN1]

What I would tell anyone who wants to successfully run high boost is to make sure your ignition module is hot wired and not going through the factory crappy wiring. Anything you can do to boost the voltage going in will help what's coming out.
AG.


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I did change the module wiring with the Caspers harness cause the car wanted to cut out on me. But that's a good idea . I'll have to monitor the power wire going into it. With the stock longblock this never happened but with the new motor there has to be a lot more air going through it. Where would you hot wire it too? Maybe the ign in the fuse block? Thanks!

 

[dynoman]

Looks like you have a really nice build . All you need to finish it off is a TR6 ignition & wires , whats another $600 at this point !

 

[GBGN1]

Looks like you have a really nice build . All you need to finish it off is a TR6 ignition & wires , whats another $600 at this point !

About 6 weeks of groceries! Lol
Yeah have to look into it.

 

[turbobitt]

I did change the module wiring with the Caspers harness cause the car wanted to cut out on me. But that's a good idea . I'll have to monitor the power wire going into it. With the stock longblock this never happened but with the new motor there has to be a lot more air going through it. Where would you hot wire it too? Maybe the ign in the fuse block? Thanks!

Usually the most convenient place to take the power from is the back of the alternator. The factory wire is simply used to control a relay that will then in turn control the new hot wire power source. If you search it out you should find a schematic somewhere.
AG.

 

[GBGN1]

Usually the most convenient place to take the power from is the back of the alternator. The factory wire is simply used to control a relay that will then in turn control the new hot wire power source. If you search it out you should find a schematic somewhere.
AG.

I've got all the factory schematics with the car so no big deal. Thought of alternator but I figured if it would spike it would fry the module.

 

[turbobitt]

I've got all the factory schematics with the car so no big deal. Thought of alternator but I figured if it would spike it would fry the module.

There are two key power wires going to the module. From what I remember only one needs to be hot wired but I guess it wouldn't matter if they both were.
AG.

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

What I would tell anyone who wants to successfully run high boost is to make sure your ignition module is hot wired and not going through the factory crappy wiring. Anything you can do to boost the voltage going in will help what's coming out.
AG.


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At what boost level do you recommend hotwiring the ignition module?

 

[GBGN1]

I see Caspers has a plug and play with a relay and everything ,claiming 20% more juice to the module. Thinking about that.

 

[Phoneguy]

The 103 plug is an extended tip tapered seat plug. I had issues with that plug myself. I went to a Non extended tip , gasketed plug as the GN1 heads will accept either. NGK R5671A 9 worked well but seemed to not last very long on the street. Currently using Autolite Racing AR3933 which seem to be better.

Bryan

 

[Major Nutz]

I tried the AR3933 and quickly went back to 103's. Seemed to break up under any amount of boost. Just my experience, I know others have had good luck with them.

 

[Phoneguy]

Are you running a TR6 ?

I have taken mine to 6700 rpms at 29 psi with the TR6. It definitely helps ...
I won't run an extended tip plug. Also the tapered seat plugs seem to gall the heads...just my observations.
Bryan

 

[Major Nutz]

I'm running the stock ignition system...for now! The tr6 seems to be a must have for our cars.

 

[turbobitt]

At what boost level do you recommend hotwiring the ignition module?

On any performance build I would just do it. Its hard to make a definitive performance cut off since there are so many contributing factors. The main factory being the old factory wiring who's condition will vary from car to car.
AG.

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

On any performance build I would just do it. Its hard to make a definitive performance cut off since there are so many contributing factors. The main factory being the old factory wiring who's condition will vary from car to car.
AG.

Thanks so much for the response. I've got the pump and injectors hotwired...prolly best to upgrade the ignition as well. Once again...thanks.

 

[TurboBuRick]

A simple jumper wire can be ran from alternator to the module for testing.

 

[GBGN1]

Checked out voltage at "m" and 14.10 is what's there and alternator is at 14.60. I'll still do the Hotwire. Plug wires all ohm out good. Magnacores 10mm,
And I'm going to try the autolite ar3933 for the hell of it. Hopen it works out. Coils all ohm good. Maybe headed tr6. With truck coil. I heard mixed results with coil over plug.