Stage 2 GN build

[Chris Hogeland]

I got a lot of the front accessories stuff finished. I need the real motor to make the last few parts: cam sync sensor mount, drill & tap hole for crank sensor and make the crank mandrel.

I wanted to make adapters for my csr sbc water pump, but there is no way to do it and be able to get the bolts into the pump.

Lastly this turbo has been staring at me for a while. I was almost done for the day, but I got a little extra wind in me and decided to finish the pass. header up to the turbo so I could mount it. It's looking like something now.

Looks good Mike!

 

[GNDriven]

"I wanted to make adapters for my csr sbc water pump, but there is no way to do it and be able to get the bolts into the pump."

For some reason I believe you, when you say this. lol

 

[Mike E]

Parachute is mounted.

 

[coach]

Mike, I looked at a friends CSR pump. I bet you could machine the flanges for the plate on your block, and then the pump sides, and machine a hole in them. Then instead of tapping the holes for pipe thread, you could slip fit 1 or 1.25 inch alum tubing in and let it stick out until they met. Mark them and miter the corners, and weld them up.
I bet you could do this.

 

[Mike E]

I thought about doing it that way also. The problem is, the pump must sit higher than the holes in the block so that the pump clears the balancer. So, the tube between the block and pump must 90 up and then 90 over into the pump. But, the pump flange face to flange face is only ~.5" narrower than the holes in the block. I'll put up my cad drawing If I remember next time I'm at the computer.

 

[coach]

I thought about doing it that way also. The problem is, the pump must sit higher than the holes in the block so that the pump clears the balancer. So, the tube between the block and pump must 90 up and then 90 over into the pump. But, the pump flange face to flange face is only ~.5" narrower than the holes in the block. I'll put up my cad drawing If I remember next time I'm at the computer.

OK. Dont forget this either. All it has to do is pump the water. I have seen Pro Street cars that have mounted the pump remotely and used braided line to the pump. You could make a mount that puts the pump slightly out in front of the balancer and off to one side to miss your up pipe, and use hose and fittings to run the lines.I would need to see your entire mock up and then I bet we could figure it out. I know that between the two of us...we can engineer anything you would need to make it work.

 

[GNDriven]

Mike could please post some pics of the tubing mount for the parachute?

 

[Mike E]

Mike could please post some pics of the tubing mount for the parachute?

I should have gotten pictures of it while I was painting, but didn't see this then. So here it what I can get with it on the car. All the round tube on the chute mount is 1/2" x .049" mild steel.
There is a square frame mounted behind the chute that matches the outside dimensions of the aluminum in the chute (8 7/8" x 8 7/8" for stroud). It has 4 flat bar tabs with holes to mount the chute to the frame.

There are two support rods going from the square frame down to the tether. The rods tie into some washers with extra pieces of tube welded to them. The tether ties into some existing tubing under the car (was there when I bought the car). Those tabs right below the chute are so I can mount the license plate under the chute for street driving if I choose not to keep the chute on.

On top there are two rods that go into the plastic trim behind the plate mount. I made little aluminum trim pieces to spread the load over the plastic.

They go all the way through the trunk and while I only have a nut and washer on there, I have plastic on order to make some profiled washers that fit the curve of the sheetmetal better.

The business end.

 

[Mike E]

I've also been working on intercooler plumbing. The belt drive distributor kinda hangs out there. So I have to really offset the inlet tube into the turbo. I'm still waiting on 4" aluminum tube to build the rest of the inlet pipe. This cuts into the space for the tube that goes from the intercooler to the throttlebody, so I ran it over to the other side of the car. Still waiting on tube to finish it also. I mounted a turbosmart race bov on the tube from the turbo to the intercooler. Plug wires are also made.

Next weekends project is the FAST stand alone harness. I'm going to take out some of the functions I'm not using and redress the harness to fit the car better. Hopefully very little of it will be seen when it's done.

 

[GNDriven]

EXCELLENT ..thanks

 

[Boostdeznuts]

How are you routing the harness into the car ? I like the idea of drill a hole on the firewall right behine the intake where you dont see much wires routing in the engine bay.

 

[Mike E]

How are you routing the harness into the car ? I like the idea of drill a hole on the firewall right behine the intake where you dont see much wires routing in the engine bay.

That's exactly what I'm doing. And the air temp, map sensor, and injector harness connection are on the back of the intake, so you'll never even see them. the only wires you'll be able to see are the cam sync, crank sensor, air temp and tps. I don't use IAC on mine. Since I'm using the FAST dash, I won't have any extra gauge wiring.

 

[Boostdeznuts]

Can you take some pics when you do ? My stage II is out right now so I can go back there to drill a hole and run my FAST harness

 

[Squid4life]

Mike, I forget, are you doing xfi and xim for the cnp/cop or just xfi? I agree, take lots of pics because I may be getting my xfi setup from Cal in the very near future and want to see how your install goes.

 

[Mike E]

XFI with an MSD 7531 (digital 7) to an MSD HVC2 coil to a distributor. I'm also using a FAST stand alone harness with a v6 injector harness and an IPU ignition harness. I'm triggering the box with an MSD crank trigger wheel and cam sync pickup. It could just as easily be done with a factory type iginition pickup and a bhj balancer along with a stock cam sensor if you're not running a belt drive. When you buy from Cal, get what he reccomends. He has a system that works. Mine is different than most other buick setups, but I use it because It's what me and my tuner know.

 

[coach]

Here ya go Mike. 2 custom machined front plates...as ordered.

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[Mike E]

You're the man, thanks. PM me what I owe you and shipping back to me. Any luck with the crank spacers?

 

[coach]

We had 2 machines down. I'll get to them soon. Thunderstorms knocked power out and screwed up our air dryer. We had water in all our air lines. Not good for tooling controlled by air chucks.


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[Mike E]

I worked on the harness one night last week. I pulled the IAC connector and WBO2 back through the grommet and shortened the wires some.

With the intake on the car I figured the best place to run the wiring out of the firewall was where the factory put the rounded indention. It's almost as if they intended for a round grommet to be there.

I still have to pull two plugs through the grommet for oil pressure and fuel pressure transducers. But they are both going to be on the back of the motor also. So the for the most part that's all the wiring to run my motor.

The area behind the a/c delete plate is going to become my wiring junction area. I'll put a few terminal strips there and hook everything together.

 

[Mike E]

We had 2 machines down. I'll get to them soon. Thunderstorms knocked power out and screwed up our air dryer. We had water in all our air lines. Not good for tooling controlled by air chucks.


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No problem. I appreciate you making these parts for me.