Stepping up to slicks this year. Need advise

jdsgnx said:
You need to use your e-brake!!!!

can hold 12/15lb launch....easy!!!!

add a piece of cable to the handle of the e-brake, set brake and hold yor brake down and pull your foot and hand at the sams TIME!!!!

Did this for YEARS , before i got a tranns brake

give a call be happy to help you set it up 941 416 7509

and KEEP THE DRAG RADAILS!!!!!
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I take it one step further and use a velcro strap on my leg connected to a nylon cord that has a hook on the end that goes to the E-brake handle and have it adjusted so that when I pull my leg off the brake it releases the E-brake at the same time.

It takes all the guess work out and works every time and I can keep one hand on the wheel and the other on the shifter at all times.

Sometimes it's good to be a redneck racer on the cheap. You have to think of dime store solutions when low on funds.

Everything else in that quote except trans brake is dead on accurate for me.
 
forcefed3.8's said:
Those will work great, but not last long on the street. The regular ET street radial will last as long as you don't put on smoke shows to show off. I have drag radials last 3+years. I have to throw them away because they are old, not worn out.
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DAMN!!! I'm lucky to get 3,500 miles out of mine when I'm easy on them on the street and about a two dozen passes.

I put about 7,000 miles a year on my car and go through as many sets in a year as you do in three.
 
I am on my third season with my hoosiers. These have been stored in my basement in bags for the winter. They are almost down to the wear bars.
 
Sydwyndr said:
My opinion is all things being equal when the slick starts to wrinkle the sidewall it lessens the forward inertia of the car by not producing a forward motion.. The radial tires are far less susceptible to do that therefore it makes them a faster tire IMO plus bias ply tires are old technology. Kinda like turbos, If you buy something today just wait 3 months and something better will come out. I call it the "turbo of the month".. :)

Bottom line is if the track will take the launch, the radial will always be quicker...
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Exactly what they're supposed to do. They were designed to do that to kind of prevent them from braking lose. That's why everyone suggests going to a 28" tire when your 26's are braking loose-like mine do. More buffer, if you will. On the really fast cars, you still see 28" or taller slicks. If they were old technology noone would use them anymore. :)

As for the stiffer sidewall radials, that's fine for a super sticky race track. For the street that doesn't offer a lot of grip, wrinke walls are kind of still necessary. At least on my car. My traction blows bad.
 
Turbo6Smackdown said:
Exactly what they're supposed to do. They were designed to do that to kind of prevent them from braking lose. That's why everyone suggests going to a 28" tire when your 26's are braking loose-like mine do. More buffer, if you will. On the really fast cars, you still see 28" or taller slicks. If they were old technology noone would use them anymore. :)

As for the stiffer sidewall radials, that's fine for a super sticky race track. For the street that doesn't offer a lot of grip, wrinke walls are kind of still necessary. At least on my car. My traction blows bad.
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The fastest stock suspension TSM and TSO cars are all running radials. Judging by your build, you have a low 11 sec, high 10 sec car at best, 275/60 MT radials hook fine on the street. I have run MT 28x10.5 slicks that didn't hook as well on the street as DR's.
 
Really? That sounds good to me. I'm in the constant search for a good hooking street tire. (and can't fine one :( ) Had a set of BFGoodrich 275 drag radials that blew donkey ****. I mean they were NO different than my default 245 wide, hard as rocks Radial T/A's I normally run. They were utterly worthless... I traded them with about a weeks worth of wear on them for a few beers.
I was going to go with the MT 26X10.50-15LT ET streets w/ tube. Should I not now? I was also contemplating a similar size in Hoosier drag radials. I'm wanting the maximum amount of grip on the street with no burn outs, but with the most normal appearance as I can get. 26" outside diameter for a stockish look, and whatever doesn't bulge too far out on a 10" widened GN rim. I want to stay as far away from a souped up drag racing muscle car as I can. What do you suggest?
 
blklt1z28 said:
275 pro's for me, 1.46 60' on a bone stock suspension. Drive on the street as well.
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Be careful with where the control arm mounts on the body, you may want to get the HR box in kit to stiffen the mounting locations with that low of a 60ft. At RC's we have seen several starting to crack under the load..
 
Turbo6Smackdown said:
Really? That sounds good to me. I'm in the constant search for a good hooking street tire. (and can't fine one :( ) Had a set of BFGoodrich 275 drag radials that blew donkey ****. I mean they were NO different than my default 245 wide, hard as rocks Radial T/A's I normally run. They were utterly worthless... I traded them with about a weeks worth of wear on them for a few beers.
I was going to go with the MT 26X10.50-15LT ET streets w/ tube. Should I not now? I was also contemplating a similar size in Hoosier drag radials. I'm wanting the maximum amount of grip on the street with no burn outs, but with the most normal appearance as I can get. 26" outside diameter for a stockish look, and whatever doesn't bulge too far out on a 10" widened GN rim. I want to stay as far away from a souped up drag racing muscle car as I can. What do you suggest?
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Always go with a taller tire if you can. The height especially on the turbo v6 which generally do not like to be turned many RPMs (mostly under 6 grand) the taller tire will keep the motor in the power band longer thus better utilizing the engines power.... Torque is what pushes these heavy bricks and lower RPM engines down the track anyway. Trying to turn most street engines over 6000 rpms simply slows them down, they CAN turn the rpms however there is no benefit. My motor makes most of its power between 5500 and 5800 rpms...
 
Sydwyndr said:
Always go with a taller tire if you can. The height especially on the turbo v6 which generally do not like to be turned many RPMs (mostly under 6 grand) the taller tire will keep the motor in the power band longer thus better utilizing the engines power.... Torque is what pushes these heavy bricks and lower RPM engines down the track anyway. Trying to turn most street engines over 6000 rpms simply slows them down, they CAN turn the rpms however there is no benefit. My motor makes most of its power between 5500 and 5800 rpms...
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Should I gear down then? Say 323?
 
I don't like my car to look like a huge jacked up, souped up muscle car with 6x9 speakers just sittin in the back dash with my Megedeth jean jacket on and my Newports rolled up in my Skid Row t shirt. I like my shit to look as clean and stock as possible :) Goin to find my drag radials now :)
 
Turbo6Smackdown said:
I don't like my car to look like a huge jacked up, souped up muscle car with 6x9 speakers just sittin in the back dash with my Megedeth jean jacket on and my Newports rolled up in my Skid Row t shirt. I like my shit to look as clean and stock as possible :) Goin to find my drag radials now :)
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Well you be sure to post a pic of your clean lookin' shit when you're done, ya hear? ;)
 

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Sydwyndr said:
Always go with a taller tire if you can. The height especially on the turbo v6 which generally do not like to be turned many RPMs (mostly under 6 grand) the taller tire will keep the motor in the power band longer thus better utilizing the engines power.... Torque is what pushes these heavy bricks and lower RPM engines down the track anyway. Trying to turn most street engines over 6000 rpms simply slows them down, they CAN turn the rpms however there is no benefit. My motor makes most of its power between 5500 and 5800 rpms...
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Agreed.
And the larger diameter tire gives more traction on the street as well as the track.... Good news...Track prep doesnt need to be as good
 
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