Stock header install advice NEEDED.

87GNT

Active Member
Joined
Nov 17, 2011
Hello gents and thanks for your time in advance.

I just installed new GN1 ported irons on my 87 and I am getting ready to start installing the stock headers BUT I am unsure if I need to use RTV or (not needed?) if so what brand of RTV do I use?

Also, If RTV is needed on which side do I need to apply it (on the head surface itself or on the header surface?
 
You'll need to run a straight edge across the header flange to see how true the surface is.
If the flange in fairly straight within .020" or under you should be good to bolt it right back on. No gasket. You could use a thin smear of RTV copper high heat for insurance if they're off a bit.
Now is an excellent time to really double check for cracks as well, and make sure the 3 bolt flange is nice and flat too. Make sure crossover inlets are nice and round and clean.
 
Put a thing film on both the heads and header flange. Give it a few minutes to 'skin over' then put the header in place and hand tight the bolts. Give that a little while to marry, then go back and tighten then like normal. The Xover is a little easier to seal since it's got more square inches of sealing space.


Also, if you're using the stock header bolts, cut those stupid small studs off on all buy the three you need. Oh yeah, use anti-seeze on all the threads.
 
Put a thing film on both the heads and header flange. Give it a few minutes to 'skin over' then put the header in place and hand tight the bolts. Give that a little while to marry, then go back and tighten then like normal. The Xover is a little easier to seal since it's got more square inches of sealing space.


Also, if you're using the stock header bolts, cut those stupid small studs off on all buy the three you need. Oh yeah, use anti-seeze on all the threads.


Thats right....I had forgotten about the anti-seeze !!!!! Thanks Earl!!!!
 
After a million heating and cooling cycles they warp. I use Felpro gaskets to seal 'em up. They're hooked on the ends so you don't have to remove the headers to change them. Leave the end bolts in and remove the others...easy peasey. If the headers leak they cause high blm's and slow spool time.
 
Believe it or not my stock headers still work with no leaks, no gasket, no rtv. Had them welded in early 90's and they are good and flat across the flanges and when I put the new heads on made sure the heads were flat too.
My friends turbo fox body mustang would blow header gaskets in days. We got a set of copper gaskets, flipped them upside so the o ring looking seal around ports was down. Then we filled the groove with hi temp copper rtv, let it skin over and installed them. Over a year ago and working great.
My header to turbo flange is warped and leaks with regular gasket. Did same with 2 copper collector gaskets with grooves filled and put together back to back.
 
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