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Stock pressure for coolant system

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HelloBozos

A Bozo in Buick
Joined
Feb 9, 2011
Messages
1,047
Hiya Group,

I blew a vacuum line off under WOT,the one to the factory boost gauge,The car immediately cut-out,then ran like crap (but Ideled real chopping like big cam v-8,i kind of liked it)till i hooked it back up. Now i have serious over pressurization in my radiator, I believe i popped the steel shim head studded gaskets around the exhaust to coolant passage, Is this possible??? I have no oil in water,the car runs extremely strong,there's no smoke,radiator holds water but when i try an release the pressure level it spews alot. The motors stock block,steel mained with number 4 cylinder sleeved,studded GN1r's,front mount RJC..i've replaced the 155* thermostat with failsafe 180* unit.Before i change it the cars temp gauge would sky rocket do to thermostat not opening,now i know it opens but car still runs warm (200)on the VDO gauge,might be temp sender,i'm replacing that next,I'm in a process of elimination lastly being motor out an head gasket check..any advice or remedies please post


Thanks,
Brent aka Bozo
 
What i've come up with so far...I'm in Orlando,FL,90 degree's an humid.I run RJC largest size front mount IC. My motor came with 130 degree stat. it allways stayed open making the car run 200 plus no matter what, I put a 155 degree in it i had laying around my garage, It knocked me down to solid 180 degree's unless i thottle play alot an heat the front mount up,then it's back to 200 at 80mph on the hwy. After that episode above posted, I'm guess the Old 155 degree stat just happened to crap out, i now have a 180 degree fail safe unit,but still at 200 degree's but no spurts over 240 now!!.I turned my boost up to 20 psi an the Car Fly's! no water in the oil,the radiator holds pressuere for days,found the stock PSI for GN is 15-16lbs, Now to remady the 200's, I'm taking my bone stock radiator out an replacing with new unit an tilting the top back to the motor at least 10 degee's ,14 degree's is prefured (old nascar trick,tilt radiator back 14 degree's to Expose more fin to the air flow)I will also tilt the IC in the same fashion vs its straight up an down mounting now. Then i seen theres room for a Radiador scoop in between the two for Hwy driving air collection. I'll post before an after pics..

Enjoy!
 
Ok,new rinkle...i haven't replaced my radiator yet,but went for night crusie anyway..VDO temp gauge stayed all around 200*. Car still has Mass Power,no smoke out the exhuast (best to do at night,peoples headlights behind you will magnifie the smoke,just make sure your rear view mirrors are spotless).soild oil pressure an vacume. I come home after hour or so an turn off my headlights an the VDO guage drops 80 degree's!!!. i monkey around turning the parking lights off an on an watch my VDOtemp gauge go up an down...lol..So..now i have a electrial short some where. i lost my LED brake lights too,parking come-on but no brake light up. On this overheat prolem now..I'm change out raditors,chase down a short,with the last problem,my radiator holds mass amounts of pressure for days hopfully not a head gasket/sleeve malfuction.

wish me luck!
 
You need a good set of fans on there and they will still not be 100 % effective with a large front mount blocking air flow in 90* ambient air. Keeping the temp below 180* will be a real chore in your situation. If the car has alky injection get a stock location intercooler and sell the front mount.
 
with the last problem,my radiator holds mass amounts of pressure for days hopfully not a head gasket/sleeve malfuction.

Youre describing a compression leak here. If all the air is purged out of the system then it will not hold pressure once its cooled off. Time to pull the heads. This could be a part of your overheating problem too.
 
You need a good set of fans on there and they will still not be 100 % effective with a large front mount blocking air flow in 90* ambient air. Keeping the temp below 180* will be a real chore in your situation. If the car has alky injection get a stock location intercooler and sell the front mount.

I have Hartlines duel fans,they work great,I found a black groud wire unconnected behinde on my VDO temp gauge,now tracing the LED brake problem. The car has power,runs 13.2-8 on air/fuel gauge while crusing,18 lbs vacume at idle on boost gauge,no oil in water,an car Pulls hard still at 20psi with alky.Once i have soild an accurate water temp gauge,I,'m hunt the radiator over pressuriztion,might be my origiainl radidor fulla garbage an aslo the 16lbs cap could be broke,If it's head gaskets, my motor has to come out,it's studded...8^(...This is a compounded overheat effect i hope

Back to the spagetti,Enjoy!
 
Okie Dokie,Took the whole dash apart an found ground wire off in the lighting system on the back of the VDO gauge,while i was at it, i hooked up my LED taillight flasher to the one under the steering colume,now the blink automaticly...Now...Lol..it's never ending..If i use the ciggerit lighter, it blows the fuse an i loose the tailight LED's an inteiroir lighting an my guage lights...So... i took it out.Went an test rode the car,the temp on the VDO read Much Better,never got to 200*.after so throttle play,i seen the slight temp increase,but after it come back to normal..radiadtor still looses water an seems over pressuerized,but i can't find where it going,head gasket,the sleeve,steamming away,i run 50/50 mix fiuld...new radiator an cap's next..

PHOTO_13669774_6696_7585054_ap.jpg


PHOTO_13669778_6696_7585054_ap.jpg


the shiney loose wire about mid frame was the cause the guage going bonkers

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All back togeter,seems to be free of shorts now

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my motor,109 billet main,roller cam,gn1r heads,GT-71,72lbs inj.

Now to finaily loose the stock cooling system.


Enjoy!
 
Welp, went for another cruise...I pegged my VDO gauge at 250*...8^(...Ever time i drive it, i fill the radiator,when i get home i'm overheating an radiator full pressure, i release the pressure an loose over half my coolant to about the level the heads...So..after coming home last night at 250. i released the pressure,it took for ever to fully escape,fired the motor back up an put the garden hose in the radiator, The car immediately cooled to 180*,my new thermostat rating, i let it just run,it held all the water,flowed great in the fins, so i left the cap off all night,no water loss..!!! WTF! I have just bought a new cap,I'm going to try that today an see what happens, I have pulled all the spark plugs...only one dirtier then the rest is Number 4...which is my sleeved cylinder !!...I think the selves malfunctioned,Any one know sleeve failure symptoms???

Thanks
 
Water out of the tail pipe. We just had an engine that did this and it didn't even have 2 nights on it. Sleeved it last year just before the season ended and didn't get to run it a third time.
 
Its been time to pull the heads for a while now. The radiator cap isnt going to matter.
 
PHOTO_13679286_6696_7585054_ap.jpg


The 2000 mile autolite an a Brand spanking new NGK ur4 i put in last light before the crusie,The white crystels mean coolent? both from the number 4 hole i had sleeved,the car will run perfect, Till i start playing around,then its a un-recoveriable overheat condition.

PHOTO_13679288_6696_7585054_ap.jpg


Also the brownish tint, should be black correct?..
 
Its been time to pull the heads for a while now. The radiator cap isnt going to matter.

I'm going small to big on expence,My motor has to come out to pull the heads, there studded,not bolted,I still have A/C, the problem cyclinder is on that side...8^(..looking like failed sleeve or cracked block,it only happins an overheats when i start stabbing the gas,other wize it runs a soild 190(FL Heat)
 
You can pull the heads, you just have to pull the studs also. Unless they're really old studs, like 10+ years, they will have a hex in the top to thread them out.
Also wondering if you fill the radiator and leave the cap off does the coolant percolate with the car running?
 
Game Over..went for night crusie cause it rained all day,no throttle playing,after 45 minutes roughly after pure 180* in traffic,190* at 70 mph on the hwy. Wham instant coolant rize to 200* then trys pegging the guage,I turned the heater on an could feel the loss in heat, No Coolant !! Motor's comming out,to see if it head gaskets or the sleve...Moich Fun..Least the worst case is just another steel mained block.My stroker internals should be fine since its water out the exhaust dealeo. Complete tear down up comming...8^)

Enjoy!
 
If you want to try and find it first then you can add a UV dye to the water before you tear it down. Run it for a little while and when you tear it down use a black light to see where the trace is. That way you can get some idea of where it is.
 
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Problem solved....I Cracked the Sleeve i had in number 4 hole...Remady...cutting it out, an going chrome molly sleeve if the blocks not cracked to, other wise i'm just getting new block an adding my steel mains/storker kit out this one into the new one.
 
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