Street Turbo

sholdwick

Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2003
I need to replace my stock turbo on my 86. I've had a group of turbo's at different build levels in the past. This car will only see street driving with a mild build. But I want a very streetable turbo that will perform for a long time. Is going to a ball bearing turbo worth the money or will the new journal bearing turbo's last well. I've had issues in the past with the journal bearing turbo's failing. I might go to a 2800 stall converter, but not initially.
 
Journal bearing turbos are the workhorse of the automotive industry. Turbos don't just "wear out". If fed clean pressurized oil and not run outside their operating range and the wheels not exposed to debris the service life should be very long. A lot of "newer" turbos are built with a hodge parts of parts and assembled by unqualified people and may or may not last. The margin is large on these turbos so the companies can eat 30% of them due to defects and still make a huge profit. Plenty of original turbos still running around out there with 100k on modified cars. It's $600-$700 more for a ball bearing cartridge typically. Ball bearing will require slightly less stall and have a higher thrust capacity but is the cost worth it? There's no guarantee it will last longer. Some ball bearing units don't last long at all. It's all up to the consumer. Personally I would assess the goal and look at what I already have. If the cost doesn't matter go for a ball bearing. If it's prohibitive of you getting the correct converter or updating your ignition then the choice is simple a journal bearing. Plenty of cars on here with $1600 turbos that run a second slower than they should.


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Journal bearing turbos are the workhorse of the automotive industry. Turbos don't just "wear out". If fed clean pressurized oil and not run outside their operating range and the wheels not exposed to debris the service life should be very long. A lot of "newer" turbos are built with a hodge parts of parts and assembled by unqualified people and may or may not last. The margin is large on these turbos so the companies can eat 30% of them due to defects and still make a huge profit. Plenty of original turbos still running around out there with 100k on modified cars. It's $600-$700 more for a ball bearing cartridge typically. Ball bearing will require slightly less stall and have a higher thrust capacity but is the cost worth it? There's no guarantee it will last longer. Some ball bearing units don't last long at all. It's all up to the consumer. Personally I would assess the goal and look at what I already have. If the cost doesn't matter go for a ball bearing. If it's prohibitive of you getting the correct converter or updating your ignition then the choice is simple a journal bearing. Plenty of cars on here with $1600 turbos that run a second slower than they should.


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Greta answer ! No fluff, just the facts!
 
A TA49 or a TE44 are good choices for what you are looking for. Both will work with the correct stock (D5) converter but a 2800 stall converter works great too.

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I went from a TE-44 to a GT6131E 6 or 7 years ago (both journal bearing). Been very pleased with the 6131. Only reason I got the 6131 installed was because the TE44 was on my car when I bought it and needed a rebuild. Upgraded the turbo, intercooler, injectors, and converter all at once. My car was/is a daily driver since high school until a year ago when I started to get electrical problems. Its been a good street/daily driver turbo that has never seen the track or pushed over 17-18psi. However, I don't think they make it anymore but there are similar turbo's. Haven't had any issues with this journal bearing turbo and for a daily driver I think these turbo's are great. All in all, I think it's preference and where you want to take your car. I'd like to have a bigger and ball bearing turbo, but for a build like my GN the 6131 journal bearing suits it well and has done its job.
 
I like my 5857 BB
went from stock to this .No lag and Hawaii is all up hill pulls like a V8
My ET may be a little slow,but at 18# on the street its a beast over stock
20 MPG
 
ta49 with a garrett .63 ex housing.

^^^^^This. Works great with a stock TC and screams with a slighter higher stall. TE44 would be similar but the garret exhaust housing is the key to getting it to work well with a stock TC. Supports 120mph trap speeds with good octane. 5858 is the new comparable unit, but Bison can probably build what you need with MFS wheels but still get you the garret housing crucial to the stock TC. I ran my precision TE44 with a stock TC and it was a little doggy compared to my stocker and I quickly changed the TC. I haven't been in a garret housing upgraded turbo'd car yet with stock TC but many run this way and like it. Let us know what you decide and how it goes.
 
Best pass on my 133k original motor was 11.32@118. 3700lb. + GN with a TE-62 and Dutt neck. On 50s and alcohol. Freshened the motor, ported irons, 210/215 roller, same turbo and IC, it went 10.97@123 with a 1.54 60'. This was at about 27 maybe 28 psi and a uh, very aggressive tune. That combo lasted 5 years on the street, ~200 1/4 mile passes, untold street hits, and it never failed.

New turbo is a 6262 and PTE SLIC after getting a deal I could not say no to.
 
Best pass on my 133k original motor was 11.32@118. 3700lb. + GN with a TE-62 and Dutt neck. On 50s and alcohol. Freshened the motor, ported irons, 210/215 roller, same turbo and IC, it went 10.97@123 with a 1.54 60'. This was at about 27 maybe 28 psi and a uh, very aggressive tune. That combo lasted 5 years on the street, ~200 1/4 mile passes, untold street hits, and it never failed.

New turbo is a 6262 and PTE SLIC after getting a deal I could not say no to.

Scojack, have you made any passes on the 6262 yet?

I have one, and finally got to put some passes on the build. My first with the turbo, and first time down the track. Everyone at Turbo Thunder was struggling to get traction, but even with a garbage 60' and lots of wheelspin I turned in the time in my sig.

123 mph at only 20 psi. Given that and the fat tune (no logger, unfortunately) this turbo has a TON left in it.
 
Scojack, have you made any passes on the 6262 yet?

I have one, and finally got to put some passes on the build. My first with the turbo, and first time down the track. Everyone at Turbo Thunder was struggling to get traction, but even with a garbage 60' and lots of wheelspin I turned in the time in my sig.

123 mph at only 20 psi. Given that and the fat tune (no logger, unfortunately) this turbo has a TON left in it.

I did but only two baseline runs on the Falken street tires. First pass was an 11.8@119 with a 2.1 60' through the mufflers, about 23psi. Next pass was a 11.46@123 with the dump open, about 25psi.

I should mention this was with BOTH stock headers cracked. Yes I said both of them. Drivers side was cracked 80% around the collector, and passengers side was blown out behind #4 primary tube. I have since upgraded to TA stock replacements.
 
I did but only two baseline runs on the Falken street tires. First pass was an 11.8@119 with a 2.1 60' through the mufflers, about 23psi. Next pass was a 11.46@123 with the dump open, about 25psi.

I should mention this was with BOTH stock headers cracked. Yes I said both of them. Drivers side was cracked 80% around the collector, and passengers side was blown out behind #4 primary tube. I have since upgraded to TA stock replacements.

God damn . . . How are TA's?

I'm thinking that, with a leaner tune and the rest of the suspension sorted out, that I can hustle a high 10 second pass at only 20#. The MPH are already there. I want to get everything else dialed to the 20#, and once I can put that down I'll turn the wick up more.

Without a cage, I'll see more benefit getting the rest of the car properly sorted first.
 
Scojack, have you made any passes on the 6262 yet?

I have one, and finally got to put some passes on the build. My first with the turbo, and first time down the track. Everyone at Turbo Thunder was struggling to get traction, but even with a garbage 60' and lots of wheelspin I turned in the time in my sig.

123 mph at only 20 psi. Given that and the fat tune (no logger, unfortunately) this turbo has a TON left in it.

Hell ya it does with your killer combo!
I witnessed this beast
 
God damn . . . How are TA's?

I'm thinking that, with a leaner tune and the rest of the suspension sorted out, that I can hustle a high 10 second pass at only 20#. The MPH are already there. I want to get everything else dialed to the 20#, and once I can put that down I'll turn the wick up more.

Without a cage, I'll see more benefit getting the rest of the car properly sorted first.

I recommend you spend time tuning and learning everything you can about the current combo. Play with a powerlogger or other systems. Understanding the data and tweaking tuning to optimize performance is lot of fun and rewarding.
 
I recommend you spend time tuning and learning everything you can about the current combo. Play with a powerlogger or other systems. Understanding the data and tweaking tuning to optimize performance is lot of fun and rewarding.

That's the plan. Gonna have to go Wideband.
 
God damn . . . How are TA's?

I'm thinking that, with a leaner tune and the rest of the suspension sorted out, that I can hustle a high 10 second pass at only 20#. The MPH are already there. I want to get everything else dialed to the 20#, and once I can put that down I'll turn the wick up more.

Without a cage, I'll see more benefit getting the rest of the car properly sorted first.

TAs fit perfect. No issues. Only thing that gave me any trouble was under the turbo flange. I guess its flared out slightly, making tightening the nuts up a bit of a pain. But other than that, absolutely no issues. I should mention this car went 10.97@123 last November with a hurt TE-62 (at 27psi) through a Dutt neck with a spinning 1.54 60' time. Its a full weight 3700lb+ street car.

The first pass that day it went 11.15@120 on beat BFG DRs and a 1.58 60'. Through the Hooker exhaust, roughly 23psi.
 
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