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Tall Valve cover question

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1NASTY69Z

Member
Joined
Nov 13, 2005
Messages
106
Im going to buy a set of tall valve covers to clear my T&D's can you get them on and off with the A/C?
 
The biggest headache is that stupid heat shield that wraps around the heater box. There are a couple of screws you can get to with the head on the motor, but there is one screw that is 99% impossible to remove with the head installed on the motor. I tell people all the time, if you have your motor out of the car or at a minimum the passengers side head taken off, now is the time to remove that stupid heat shield as you can access that one screw.
Once that heat shield has been taken off, it makes R&Ring the pass side tall valve cover a snap. Drivers side is a no brainer other than pulling the harness and other associated tubing and wires away from the cover when R&Ring. Just don't forget to disconnect the battery before you start pulling the drivers side VC. That alternator +12v post will bite ya quick.
HTH

Patrick
 
Thanks guys,I took off that dumb heat shield awhile ago with the motor and the head still in the car!! I got it out but there was alot of yelling going on,and it took forever.That particular screw you are talking about I couldnt get out and I broke part of the box.I could get in there enough to fix it after I broke it,but I think its impossible to get the screw out.
 
What I did was notch the head shield...no more stupid little screws on the bottom side.
 
The biggest headache is that stupid heat shield that wraps around the heater box. There are a couple of screws you can get to with the head on the motor, but there is one screw that is 99% impossible to remove with the head installed on the motor. I tell people all the time, if you have your motor out of the car or at a minimum the passengers side head taken off, now is the time to remove that stupid heat shield as you can access that one screw.
Once that heat shield has been taken off, it makes R&Ring the pass side tall valve cover a snap. Drivers side is a no brainer other than pulling the harness and other associated tubing and wires away from the cover when R&Ring. Just don't forget to disconnect the battery before you start pulling the drivers side VC. That alternator +12v post will bite ya quick.
HTH

Patrick


Once the heat shield is removed, does anything else need to be removed to get tall cover off. I have Champion tall covers on my ride and the pass side has a oil leak. :frown:
 
I leave the shield alone and remove the coolant pipe on the passenger side. Done it plenty of times. You could also remove the passenger side engine mount bolt and jack the engine up to make it easier to remove the cover or those damn screws if you want to get rid of the heat shield.
 
Tall valve covers

Yes' they are a major pain in the a@@ to get on and off!! I remove the heater pipe as well.
 
Leave the hoses clamped to the heater core or take them off with the hard pipe lines?
 
Leave the hoses clamped to the heater core or take them off with the hard pipe lines?

Just the big nut that connects it to the intake manifold and push it out of the way. All hoses can stay on. It helps to have another pair of hands.
 
just remove the heat shield, everything else can stay on.

the T/A valve covers fit the best

tavalvecoversblack.jpg
 
Yeah,now that I look at them more,they seem rounded and not as boxy.Which may help on the A/C side,to slip on and off better at the box.
 
I installed the Tall TA performance valve covers this weekend and they fit very well. If your considering a valve cover to clear your T&D's they will work out nicely for you. One thing I do recommend is to put your gasket on the head first with a little rtv to hold it in place. Then drop the valve cover on easily. Hope this helps..

Mike Banas
87GN
 
I know there is more than one method to do things, so I would like to just give one another having installed many sets of the TA valve covers.

My preference is to use the thick Felpro 1600 cork gasket and trim the tabs to fit the notches in the VC. Also, trim the outside curved edge of the gasket to fit the machined groove.

Once fit, I use spray adhesive to attach it to the VC. Let it dry for a few minutes before install. Doing it this way, the gaskets are good for a few R&R's.

Once on the engine, tighten the bolts snug. After 15-20 minutes, tighten again and then a third time. Cork gaskets are slow to compress, so doing it in steps prevents crushing the gasket. :)
 
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