The official tips you've learned from experience thread.
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87granny
Active Member
- Joined
- May 17, 2005
- Messages
- 1,547
You can't run 25 lbs of boost on pump gas 
listen and react to your audible knock detector...that long beep means step off not half throttle it:redface:
replace spare tire and jack with 2 cans of the tall tire inflator/repair spray can things if you don't take long trips. i've never carried a jack and spare in any hi perf car
replace spare tire and jack with 2 cans of the tall tire inflator/repair spray can things if you don't take long trips. i've never carried a jack and spare in any hi perf car
Rusted bolts or nuts:
When ever you have rusted bolts or nuts, no matter how rusted, soak it with WD-40 or some other penetrating lube. Let it sit for about 1-2minutes, then making sure their is nothing flammable next to heat, heat the bolt and the nut until you see red "dots" around the bolt/nut where the rust is at. This is the rust breaking apart. Once it is completely heated up (about 1-2 minutes for small-med bolts-6mm-10mm, 2-4 minutes for med-large bolts- 10mm-12mm) then remove the bolts as normal. Once they break loose, if you reach a part that again begins to get hard, re-heat up the bolt. You can also spray WD-40 on to the bolt when it is really hot but beware, this will cause a lot of smoke. I have never had a rusted bolt I could not remove using this method!:biggrin:
When ever you have rusted bolts or nuts, no matter how rusted, soak it with WD-40 or some other penetrating lube. Let it sit for about 1-2minutes, then making sure their is nothing flammable next to heat, heat the bolt and the nut until you see red "dots" around the bolt/nut where the rust is at. This is the rust breaking apart. Once it is completely heated up (about 1-2 minutes for small-med bolts-6mm-10mm, 2-4 minutes for med-large bolts- 10mm-12mm) then remove the bolts as normal. Once they break loose, if you reach a part that again begins to get hard, re-heat up the bolt. You can also spray WD-40 on to the bolt when it is really hot but beware, this will cause a lot of smoke. I have never had a rusted bolt I could not remove using this method!:biggrin:
Running rich? Just add boost.
Don't waste money on an OE style MAF.
These cars all leak oil. The guys that say that their car doesn't are lying or it's dripping on to the exhaust and burning off.
Remove that visual knock gauge, you'll have more fun with the car.
Just because you give a vendor money doesn't mean that they have to send you parts in a reasonable amount of time or ship what you actually ordered.
4 front "GTA" wheels without spacers do not look good.
I know you think you've removed all of the fasteners for the heater box cover......but you haven't.
That $2,000 200R4 that you had done by the local transmission "wizard" is going to last about 2 weeks.
Change your serp. belt or idler pulley before you yank that cam for being too noisy.
Don't waste money on an OE style MAF.
These cars all leak oil. The guys that say that their car doesn't are lying or it's dripping on to the exhaust and burning off.
Remove that visual knock gauge, you'll have more fun with the car.
Just because you give a vendor money doesn't mean that they have to send you parts in a reasonable amount of time or ship what you actually ordered.
4 front "GTA" wheels without spacers do not look good.
I know you think you've removed all of the fasteners for the heater box cover......but you haven't.
That $2,000 200R4 that you had done by the local transmission "wizard" is going to last about 2 weeks.
Change your serp. belt or idler pulley before you yank that cam for being too noisy.
87granny
Active Member
- Joined
- May 17, 2005
- Messages
- 1,547
Don't let livez4gn put your engine together 
turbo nasty
Turbo Dojo / MNTR
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2001
- Messages
- 9,478
Studs or longer bolts when installing the PP or R&Ring the doghouse.
FMIC's are superior to SLIC
The fancy elctronic gizmo thats the latest and greatest has pis poor tech support and will never work as advertised with out all the additions and extra upgrades that was not mentioned before purchase or advertisement.
The parts that are on sale will be 2 weeks plus before getting them because the vendor didnt mention they were drop shipped from the manufacturere as well as on back order.
Send the 200 off to a reputible builder, they guy that builds 4l60s in your town dont know jack about a 2004r. Despite what he says
The 3 people on earth that say the ebay china headers work perfect on their turbo regals were in a delusional state when posting....... you'll see when they dont fit. But the price is so cheap, after the 4th removal to refab youll see the the price was low for a reason.
Check under the gas tank rubber straps....... Youll see its just about rusted through. POR15 to the rescue
First Mod....Replace fuel pump and hotwire!!!
Zddplus and reg valvoline dino will be just fine for whatever you have.
87 Regal 307 v8 works just as good as the Fbody radiator.
Use a magnetic pickup tool to remove the locks when doing valve springs.
Use a little grease on the upipe hoses and slide the one for the TB on the pipe then put the one to the IC on, then slide the TB one on to the TB.
Pull the TPS forward then adjust up and down during adjustment.
FMIC's are superior to SLIC
The fancy elctronic gizmo thats the latest and greatest has pis poor tech support and will never work as advertised with out all the additions and extra upgrades that was not mentioned before purchase or advertisement.
The parts that are on sale will be 2 weeks plus before getting them because the vendor didnt mention they were drop shipped from the manufacturere as well as on back order.
Send the 200 off to a reputible builder, they guy that builds 4l60s in your town dont know jack about a 2004r. Despite what he says
The 3 people on earth that say the ebay china headers work perfect on their turbo regals were in a delusional state when posting....... you'll see when they dont fit. But the price is so cheap, after the 4th removal to refab youll see the the price was low for a reason.
Check under the gas tank rubber straps....... Youll see its just about rusted through. POR15 to the rescue
First Mod....Replace fuel pump and hotwire!!!
Zddplus and reg valvoline dino will be just fine for whatever you have.
87 Regal 307 v8 works just as good as the Fbody radiator.
Use a magnetic pickup tool to remove the locks when doing valve springs.
Use a little grease on the upipe hoses and slide the one for the TB on the pipe then put the one to the IC on, then slide the TB one on to the TB.
Pull the TPS forward then adjust up and down during adjustment.
i didnt even have to modify mine for know i need unlimited money to fix it. but i still wont ever give it up, which brings me to my cliches tip, when somethings got you down, take a break and come back to it later, its amazing what i little break can make you see.
DailyDrifter
The Slow and the Curious
- Joined
- Dec 5, 2007
- Messages
- 5,118
Don't let livez4gn put your engine together
Or paint it
Also dont let AUTOMOTIVE AND INDUSTRIAL ASSEMBLE YOUR ENGINE!!!!!! Or let ESP sell you a Billet cam that serves as a block destroyer.
And here is my serious comment............dont buy a Turbo Buick
, hard drugs are better for you in the long run.streetknight
DCVING
- Joined
- May 26, 2001
- Messages
- 1,105
x2 (ask me how I know :eek)
Use anti seize on your downpipe to turbo bolts. Makes it a lot easier to remove when you need to.
Make sure you have a scan tool before you start turning up the boost or lowering fuel pressure.
jskarateka
Member
- Joined
- Nov 16, 2008
- Messages
- 139
Stay off of this website whenever you have money in your checking account or on your credit card. Much worse then going to the grocery store hungry.
to get wheel well trim off if the screws are stuck hit the screws with a flathead screw driver hit them sideways it will loosen them then you can get them off with the philips screw driver or drill them out. this also works on other areas in the car as well.
to save time when working on the car i use screw driver bits or torque bits in my cordless drill or put a 1/4 drive extension in your cordless drill to get the smaller bolts out this saves a bunch of time compared to using hand tools and is better than dragging a airhose around for air tools.
sway bar end links are always seized up so save yourself the trouble and just cut them off.
if you are taking something apart and you THINK you have all the screws out and it still does not come off YOU MISSED SOME SCREWS!
when taking off a downpipe or the elbow from the turbo .GREAT IDEA heat with a torch if not there is a really good chance 1 or 2 bolts are going to break off.
when putting h&r motor mounts on .put the motor bolt and nut on the mount and weld the nut on! saves some time and trouble. i would not do this to stock mounts because there is a good chance you would probably have to replace them again.
to save time when working on the car i use screw driver bits or torque bits in my cordless drill or put a 1/4 drive extension in your cordless drill to get the smaller bolts out this saves a bunch of time compared to using hand tools and is better than dragging a airhose around for air tools.
sway bar end links are always seized up so save yourself the trouble and just cut them off.
if you are taking something apart and you THINK you have all the screws out and it still does not come off YOU MISSED SOME SCREWS!
when taking off a downpipe or the elbow from the turbo .GREAT IDEA heat with a torch if not there is a really good chance 1 or 2 bolts are going to break off.
when putting h&r motor mounts on .put the motor bolt and nut on the mount and weld the nut on! saves some time and trouble. i would not do this to stock mounts because there is a good chance you would probably have to replace them again.
After the bolt is hot, stick a parafin candle on it- the heat will melt the wax and it will wick up the threads, makes it easier to remove.
Just remember... Every trans vender on here is a local "wizard" to someone on this board. Difference is actual understanding of these transmissions compared to a normal builder. 
I use a spray of brake cleaner. It is slick when sprayed on and evaporates without leaving angthing slick to slide off under boost.
corsair231
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2005
- Messages
- 2,185
For every "Oh, it'll just take a few minutes job.", it won't, allow at least two hours. :smile:
