Timing Chain time ...

I called Nick Micale at Arizona GN and he highly recommended (and sold me) the TA performance billet silent timing set. It uses a link chain with billet gears and a tensioner. I couldn't be happier with it. It's a little more expensive than roller at $115 but that's nothing with these cars. Also when I removed my original chain and gears at just over 50k miles it was all still in good shape except the tensioner spring was weak and causing a ticking sound. Nice and quiet now.

http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_V1522B

http://arizonagn.com/

I haven't used this yet but am in the next motor. Seems like the best of both worlds as far as stock type noise levels and near double roller strength and reliability. I like the idea of using a tensioner too. I am currently running a Cloyes from Kirban without tensioner and it was inspected after 40k miles and had no noticeable stretch yet. Just wanted to be clear.
 
I remember when I fell ass over tea kettle for timing gears instead of chains. Then you start the motor, and holy crapola, the noise is enough to drive you crazy! Double roller chains, yes sir.
 
Something I don't think anyone has mentioned is that most double roller setups use cast gears which will wear more quickly than billet gears. I'm not sure if anyone besides TA makes a true billet gear set.
 
I installed a comp cam double roller race timing set about 3000 miles ago with the tensioner. The tensioner failed and broke the chain whilst cruising around. The chain then wrapped around the crank and pushed the oil pan away from the timing cover thus breaking it apart. Right before the weather gets nice too...

IMG_20140207_153105653_HDR.jpg

Now I know not to re-install the tensioner just wish I read it instead of lived it. $13 part caused $500 in damage so far. New front cover and timing set and then I can check compression.
 
I installed a comp cam double roller race timing set about 3000 miles ago with the tensioner. The tensioner failed and broke the chain whilst cruising around. The chain then wrapped around the crank and pushed the oil pan away from the timing cover thus breaking it apart. Right before the weather gets nice too...

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Now I know not to re-install the tensioner just wish I read it instead of lived it. $13 part caused $500 in damage so far. New front cover and timing set and then I can check compression.
Ouch


I changed mines at 165K it was missing teeth and chunks but still worked good ????, replaced it with a cheap Edelbrock and put another 20K miles on the car with no problems. On the new motor Husek installed a Roll master with NO tensioner. If this chain is making noise i can't hear it over the lifters so i am good.
 
Actually I think it's reached the point of ads and names now instead of tech data.

Personal expierences can be helpful. Although i feel like I don't know what to go with now lol. Maybe the factory stuff is the best bet. I thought just the cam sprocket was plastic. EDIT: chain is metal.
 
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What would be the advantage of using a stock set up with a tensioner as to a double chain without out one I personally have not had a problem with the double chains


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Idk, but 40k seems a bit soon....Jmo though. I didn't know about the TA billet set when my timing chain got replaced, so the dbl roller was installed, and so far so good.
 
Wow, very helpful info. Just like everthing else on this forum. Im going to have my belt checked first I guess, then take it from there...
 
When in doubt replace before it's too late and the cost and damage will be more then just a simple timing chain replacement;)
 
Personal expierences can be helpful. Although i feel like I don't know what to go with now lol. Maybe the factory stuff is the best bet. I thought just the cam sprocket was plastic, now I know also the chain itself. That surprised me.


No, the factory top gear is metal with a plastic coating. After 20 years inside a crankcase environment, they tend to get iffy about cracking no matter what the miles. The bottom gear is iron and the chain is a hi-vo steel unit.


Literally MILLIONS of cars came with this 'POS' set in engines GM offered a warranty on. Over the last 1/4 century they have proven themselves to last for 150,000 miles, or 20~25 years, whichever comes first.
 
If your looking for a stock replacement on the auction site there is a Dynagear 73019 on there. These were made before Cloyes got a hold of them and used a powdered metal cam gear.
 
I edited my post to correct my misinterpretation. I think ill end up using the stock stuff once the time comes.
 
If your looking for a stock replacement on the auction site there is a Dynagear 73019 on there. These were made before Cloyes got a hold of them and used a powdered metal cam gear.

Just make sure to change that one at less than 100,000 miles (in case any of these are dailys anymore).. That tming set is the reason I wrote my 'how to/timing cover/oil pump' article. When a hard metal set wears out, it takes the timing cover with it.

My magnetic oil drain plug had an afro everytime I changed the oil too. The instant I switched back to a stock set, the afro stopped.
 
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Just make sure to change that one at less than 100,000 miles (in case any of these are dailys anymore).. That tming set is the reason I wrote my 'how to/timing cover/oil pump' article. When a hard metal set wears out, it takes the timing cover with it.

My magnetic oil drain plug had an afro everytime I changed the oil too. The instant I switched back to a stock set, the afro stopped.

IMHO Earl is spot on about the stock timing set. 98% of the TR's on the road today is mid 11's or SLOWER, and on top of that most of them have been beat to shit. A 10 sec car or faster or a new $5000 botom end i could see having a double roller, hell maybe someone out there has a tri roller somewhere.
 
Something I may have missed, but you still use the tensioner with the TA chain correct?
 
I haven't used this yet but am in the next motor. Seems like the best of both worlds as far as stock type noise levels and near double roller strength and reliability. I like the idea of using a tensioner too. I am currently running a Cloyes from Kirban without tensioner and it was inspected after 40k miles and had no noticeable stretch yet. Just wanted to be clear.

I think I will be going this route on my build this summer. I see Webers and other vendors all recommend the double roller cloyes set up though.:confused: I always used a double roller in all my Chevy stuff and never gave it much thought ,it was just the thing you did
 
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