timing chain ?
- Thread starter nickygn
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scojack_2001
Livin' Like A Refugee
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
- Messages
- 1,392
I put mine in straight up. No problems from what I can tell. This was in February '08 and the car has seen alot of miles since. Nothing out of the ordinary and a straightforward installation.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
turbofabricator
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 7, 2004
- Messages
- 4,261
If all you're going to do is replace the timing chain, with the timing cover off, rotate the engine so the dots line up. THEN remove the timing chain. Slide the lower gear on with the Zero dot up. If the bolts don't line up it is because the chain was really loose causing the cam to retard a few degrees. If you are running a real big turbo and it feels lazy, you can advance the cam 4* and get a little bottom end back. If it is a fairly small turbo (PT54 or smaller) keep the timing straight up.
If the bolt holes are off alot, there is a machining problem and the best bet is to degree the cam in. Pretty hard to degree the stock cam because we don't have a cam card to go by.
I have a few sets of NEW GM timing chains and gear sets with dampnners if you want to just slide it all back together with the exact factory parts. The stock timing chans are a nice part contrary to what even I use to think.
Just this last week I had a Rollmaster timing chain failure. Two of the rollers had broken off and others were cracked. The link pins were all good and it was VERY difficult to even see the missing rollers. I was rebuilding a low mile engine and reused the timing chain set. It was still tight and looked good. IT only had about 10,000 miles or less on it. After the engine was completely assembled and only needed the oil pan installed, I wiped the pan out and found the pieces. Took a bit to figure out what happened. They were bigger in diameter than a new chans rollers, so I thought it was a roller tip from the rockers. But they had expanded after they split, so they were larger than the original. I pulled the fuel pump block off plate and rolled the engine over and saw the missing rollers. So off it came and a new one installed. So always check the timing chains CAREFULLY with a bright light EVERY time you disassemble the timing cover. I will always just replace it at each tear down, even if it only a few thousand miles on it. $125 is cheap insurance. There just isn't a good high quality chain available for the Buick V6. Good luck with your build.
If the bolt holes are off alot, there is a machining problem and the best bet is to degree the cam in. Pretty hard to degree the stock cam because we don't have a cam card to go by.
I have a few sets of NEW GM timing chains and gear sets with dampnners if you want to just slide it all back together with the exact factory parts. The stock timing chans are a nice part contrary to what even I use to think.
Just this last week I had a Rollmaster timing chain failure. Two of the rollers had broken off and others were cracked. The link pins were all good and it was VERY difficult to even see the missing rollers. I was rebuilding a low mile engine and reused the timing chain set. It was still tight and looked good. IT only had about 10,000 miles or less on it. After the engine was completely assembled and only needed the oil pan installed, I wiped the pan out and found the pieces. Took a bit to figure out what happened. They were bigger in diameter than a new chans rollers, so I thought it was a roller tip from the rockers. But they had expanded after they split, so they were larger than the original. I pulled the fuel pump block off plate and rolled the engine over and saw the missing rollers. So off it came and a new one installed. So always check the timing chains CAREFULLY with a bright light EVERY time you disassemble the timing cover. I will always just replace it at each tear down, even if it only a few thousand miles on it. $125 is cheap insurance. There just isn't a good high quality chain available for the Buick V6. Good luck with your build.
- Joined
- May 26, 2001
- Messages
- 9,208
Ken, if possible, I would like to examine the broken chain and also have others look at it.
I have broken a few chains and know of many others. Currently I am working with Cloyes with their new chain which is much better according to results so far.
Let me know, thanks.
I have broken a few chains and know of many others. Currently I am working with Cloyes with their new chain which is much better according to results so far.
Let me know, thanks.
usetaboost
SAY CAR RAMROD!!
- Joined
- May 4, 2005
- Messages
- 7,697
I just used the melling that came with the kit with the tensioner. I didn't have much money when I did the motor and I figured if the factory used a tensioner there was a reason for it. It isn't like Im going to be revving it to 6 grand or anything
turbofabricator
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 7, 2004
- Messages
- 4,261
Sure Nick. I'd be happy to send it to you. Give me a call when you feel up to it. I'll also post some pics when I get a chance. Been through alot of issues with engines this last two weeks. 
Killing a StageII and having to THRASH to get a replacement running in three days is always FUN.
I have never had the roller themselves crack and fail. Links/pins breaking, yes. It takes careful examination to even see the missing rollers. (but with my eyes........I just can't see going to work anymore.
)
Killing a StageII and having to THRASH to get a replacement running in three days is always FUN.
I have never had the roller themselves crack and fail. Links/pins breaking, yes. It takes careful examination to even see the missing rollers. (but with my eyes........I just can't see going to work anymore.)
