Torque converter help

TireFryer

The New Kid
Joined
Dec 21, 2001
Converter time. I’m running an OLD vig 3200 stall single disc lockup converter. TE62 turbo with .63 ar housing. I’m at 28 psi and want more. Converter flashes to 5200 rolling into it in 3rd gear. I was told I’d blow through it at 400ish hp and well clearly I’m there. With a stock long block I can’t rev more than 5600ish. Wondering what some good options are for somewhat of a budget. YES i know about Husek and all those “you can only use said converter” people. Wondering what my options are. Looking for low 11’s with this combo and mid 10’s with the new engine.
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I've had fantastic luck with FTI converters. You could call and just tell them what you are looking for.

I run an FTI Economy street racer on alky and 21 PSI stock turbo.(212/212 com cam, ported heads and intake)...

Going to a bigger turbo soon, hopefully it will hold it.

Although, if you are going for 10s you probably want something better then the economy street racer.

EDIT; Retaining the lockup is worth the money if you have to go to a triple disc/billet front cover etc. Lockup makes stuff way more streetable. and you can use it for MPH if you run out of gear on the big end.
 
A stock cammed long block is done well before 5600 rpm, a budget converter is not going to get you anywhere, you will require something that couples by 5k rpm at the most, a little lower would be better, but it will have to come up over 4k rpm on the brake to spool. PTC 9.5 nlu is your best bet, not cheap.
 
I know you mentioned Dave's converter, and that's what I'm running, the 3021. See sig for mods.

I don't have any experience with other units, but I'm happy with my results and drive ability. It 60's hard, and thats with me leaving at 7psi on the footbrake. I could hold more boost but I was getting alittle tire hop above 7psi and ran out of time to make shock adjustments that evening to address it.

Lots of options out there, just my $.02
 
I guess the question is why not a Husek converter? Price?
 
I guess the question is why not a Husek converter? Price?
College budget lol. Bought my car for 10k lol. Wh1… back parts and prices were normal. Can barely afford gas now lol. But won’t ever sell it Because I’ll never be able to afford one again. If Husek is what I need then I’ll save up for it. Does he make a multi disc lockup?
 
College budget lol. Bought my car for 10k lol. Wh1… back parts and prices were normal. Can barely afford gas now lol. But won’t ever sell it Because I’ll never be able to afford one again. If Husek is what I need then I’ll save up for it. Does he make a multi disc lockup?
I get the budget thing for sure. You've read plenty on here so you know whats up. I was just offered a torque converter, which I am picking up cause I hoard. Non-lock 3200 stall. If your interested I'd be willing to pass it on for what I am getting it for. PM me for more details.
 
College budget lol. Bought my car for 10k lol. Wh1… back parts and prices were normal. Can barely afford gas now lol. But won’t ever sell it Because I’ll never be able to afford one again. If Husek is what I need then I’ll save up for it. Does he make a multi disc lockup?
Dave does not make a multi-disc lockup. With the advancements today you do not need lock up, and if you go lock up, you only need it for cruising. If you want to stay lock up, Dave's 3021 can get it done. The PTC I have is the best money I spent on my car, it is perfect for my combo. If you go to loose, the shift points move up, and the operating RPM will move past the optimum considering a stock long block is going to make best power between 4400 and 4800 rpm. Does not mean you can't make something else work, but why? Save for something good now, and have it re-stalled when you upgrade.
 
I think you need to run high to mid 11's with what you have on a stock motor.
I have no trouble at all with my 3K stall single disk locking it up in 3rd at 427 HP.
New motor spend some dough, after you max. out what you have.
Get to the track it's fun. Probably a lot more fun with a spare engine around, I never had that option.
New turbo.... new converter..... new motor.... new job.... new girlfriend.... some hair loss.....agita.... ;):p
Oh yeah, stay in school! this has been your public service announcement, old school.... :cool:
 
I think you need to run high to mid 11's with what you have on a stock motor.
I have no trouble at all with my 3K stall single disk locking it up in 3rd at 427 HP.
New motor spend some dough, after you max. out what you have.
Get to the track it's fun. Probably a lot more fun with a spare engine around, I never had that option.
New turbo.... new converter..... new motor.... new job.... new girlfriend.... some hair loss.....agita.... ;):p
Oh yeah, stay in school! this has been your public service announcement, old school.... :cool:
Guess I’ll see what it’ll do at the track. Just need to buy some et streets and make the drive. It hits the rev limiter on the 2-3 shift if I launch it hard ish on the street(without wheel spin) which makes me think it can’t shift any lower at the boost I’m at. But who knows. Maybe I lock it at like 80mph and just freight train the big end lol. Anyone have some cheap radials I can have:geek:
 
Guess I’ll see what it’ll do at the track. Just need to buy some et streets and make the drive. It hits the rev limiter on the 2-3 shift if I launch it hard ish on the street(without wheel spin) which makes me think it can’t shift any lower at the boost I’m at. But who knows. Maybe I lock it at like 80mph and just freight train the big end lol. Anyone have some cheap radials I can have:geek:
That is the problem with a loose converter, is the rev limiter at 6000 rpm? The PTC I have shifts at 5000rpm with the stock unmodified governor, boost is 28 to 30 with the 5858. I am right in the power range you are looking for 11 flat at 120mph in the 1/4. You really need a converter that couples better and much lower rpm. The amount of slip in your converter is significant.
 
Assume 5-8% slip at the finish line that's like 5900 RPM.
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You're spending a fair bit of money on a converter either way. why wouldn't you guy for one with lockup? especially if you ever get close to 130 mph. Not to mention its more efficient when locked up. also depends on how you use the car. If you street drive it the majority of the time... Lockup, Cruise Control, and A/C.... its a Buick not a 3rd gen Camaro.
 
Don't forget lean cruise in the chip. :)
Hopefully it is the converter and not the transmission.
 
That is the problem with a loose converter, is the rev limiter at 6000 rpm? The PTC I have shifts at 5000rpm with the stock unmodified governor, boost is 28 to 30 with the 5858. I am right in the power range you are looking for 11 flat at 120mph in the 1/4. You really need a converter that couples better and much lower rpm. The amount of slip in your converter is significant.
The limiter is 5600 and I don’t want to go much more than that with stock pistons. Not to mention the cam is DONE by then. I turned it down to 26 psi today and it flashed to 5300 in 3rd roll in lol. I have a friend who has a 2500 stall summit cheapo converter that he said flashed to 4400 and said I could have it for shipping cost. Kinda wanna slap it in and see what it does lol. I’m young. Don’t mind a converter swap or two. I was looking at circle d for a triple disc lockup but they don’t have one for a 200 so I’d have to go turbo 400 or 4l80 or something. The research continues…
 
Have you contacted precision and asked them if they can do anything with your current convertor?
 
The vigilante 3200 is a good convertor especially with a TE62. Is the convertor a 9.5" or 10.5"?
You don't want a 2500 stall. What are your shift point RPM's on powerlogger?
Have you tried to adjust your TV cable? It changes the shift points....Try this first
 
It shifts at 5400. How do you adjust the tv? It’s as tight as I can get it and still go wot. Do I need it looser for lower shift points? Don’t want ti burn up clutches..
 
It shifts at 5400. How do you adjust the tv? It’s as tight as I can get it and still go wot. Do I need it looser for lower shift points? Don’t want ti burn up clutches..
Your blowing through that converter, it was a common complaint of that vintage multidisc lock ups. The transmission governor is driven by the output shaft, which means the WOT shift points are based on the governor and the output shaft speed. More converter slip will raise the RPM of the shift points. If your TV cable is tight when the throttle is open all the way that's not a contributor. Also, using converter stall speed numbers is not going to get you anywhere. The turbo6 power characteristics requires specific converter characteristics which will be WOT coupling RPM, max boost brake stall rpm, and converter flash rpm. If you are on a budget then you will have to trade off something. I personally would prefer a tighter converter, if I had to compromise, to keep the rpms in check and in the meat of the power and sacrifice spool up, unless you are planning to drag race a lot then you have think about 60ft which means you will likely have a fair amount of slip unless you want to spend to get it all. Some numbers for the PTC below and it drives great for cruising. That combined with the Husek transmission is an awesome street/strip combo. Additionally, I can get 4400 rpm on the foot brake and over 20 lbs boost really quick, flashes to 4700 rpm when I let off the brake, and drops 2 to 300 rpm on the shifts. Shift rpms in table below.
tire dia
27.3​
27.3​
27.3​
shift/trap mph
30​
64​
119.75​
Rear ratio
3.42​
3.42​
3.42​
Gear Ratio
2.74​
1.57​
1​
Shift/trap Rpm
5120​
5040​
5400​
DS RPM
1263​
2695​
5043​
Input RPM
1869​
3210​
5400​
Slip %
32.4%​
16.0%​
6.6%​
 
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