Torque specs for control arm bolts

[87 WE2]

Anyone know what the torque specs are for front lower control arm bushing bolts? As well as the upper control arm bushings, I had a paper with the specs but seem to have missplaced it. These are stock arms with moog rubber replacement bushings, thanks

 

[scot w.]

Anyone know what the torque specs are for front lower control arm bushing bolts? As well as the upper control arm bushings, I had a paper with the specs but seem to have missplaced it. These are stock arms with moog rubber replacement bushings, thanks

Good question! I will follow it up with a more detailed answer so this will help others out as well..


FRONT:

* Front Upper A-arm bolts = 45ft lbs
* Front Lower A-arm bolts = 65ft lbs
* Ball Joint to Spindle = 65ft lbs
* Lower Ball Joint = 90ft lbs
* Sway bar end links = 40ft lbs

REAR:

* Upper & Lower Control arm bolts = 75ft lbs


Hope this helps
Scot W.

 

[85begalttype]

i currently have my body off the frame so i can fix some rust issues. i replaced the all control arm bushings. can i torque them down, or should i wait for the body to be put back on for full weight and then torque down the control arm bolts? does it make a difference?

 

[scot w.]

i currently have my body off the frame so i can fix some rust issues. i replaced the all control arm bushings. can i torque them down, or should i wait for the body to be put back on for full weight and then torque down the control arm bolts? does it make a difference?

This is what I do but that don't mean there are other ways.

You can go ahead and torque down the Upper & Lower A-arm bolts, Ball Joints but hold off on the sway bars until you have the car ready and back on the ground. I would leave the rear Upper & Lower control arm bolts till you have the car ready and back on the ground then torque down everything with full weight on the car..

Scot W.

 

[85begalttype]

ok thanks for the quick response, with the body off, its so easy to get the torque wrench everywhere

 

[87 WE2]

Thanks Scott

 

[charlief1]

This is what I do but that don't mean there are other ways.

You can go ahead and torque down the Upper & Lower A-arm bolts, Ball Joints but hold off on the sway bars until you have the car ready and back on the ground. I would leave the rear Upper & Lower control arm bolts till you have the car ready and back on the ground then torque down everything with full weight on the car..

Scot W.

If the chasis isn't loaded when you tighten any of the control arms then the bushings will be stressed and fall apart. Do not tighten anything until the chasis is fully loaded or you will be replacing the bushings very soon.

 

[scot w.]

If the chasis isn't loaded when you tighten any of the control arms then the bushings will be stressed and fall apart. Do not tighten anything until the chasis is fully loaded or you will be replacing the bushings very soon.

Sorry I missed the part about the Moog rubber bushings and was thinking about what we done with my car...This is correct on those...

I have Delrin bushings on everything and when DSE & I done my car it was on the lift and the chassis was Not loaded and all is fine here but Delrin bushings are much different than stock replacement rubber bushings.. Sorry for the mix up!

Scot W.

 

[85begalttype]

im using poly bushings, should it be loaded?

 

[charlief1]

If using any type of bushing, The chasis must be fully loaded or the bushings will be put under stress and fall apart. If using a bearing type, then you don't need to worry about this.