Turbo Tweak ECU-GN and what to expect

Looking for idea’s for mounting this ecu. This is as far as I have gotten. I have studs holding it in place. I could cut the factory pc. That housed the stock ECM, but would like to see what others think


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thats a nice arrangement you built. I agree that the unit is "too pretty to hide" even though its meant to be tucked away out of sight.

just make sure nobody kicks the MAP hose off it.

thats a nice arrangement you built. I agree that the unit is "too pretty to hide" even though its meant to be tucked away out of sight.

just make sure nobody kicks the MAP hose off it.

Yes on the hose. Haven’t zip tied it yet as am still playing with it. Could cut the factory cover where the lights would show
Ok, here's a TCS solution (maybe).

This sensor:

It has a pass-through, so the sensor goes on the transmission, then your speedo cable goes on the sensor. You keep the stock Speedo, odometer, and the cruise control will still work.

Wire that sensor to VSS+/- pins on the side expansion connector and pull the pin from the harness plug for the stock sensor (pin A10, dark brown wire). Then open up the ECU-GN and remove the VSS jumper ( in the jumper block right next to the expansion connector).

Now, assuming you've got a front wheel speed sensor hooked up to the AUX VSS+ terminal, you'll get into the shaft and gear settings screen and set it like this:

You need to know the actual diameter of your tires and your final drive ratio (don't use 3.73 if you still have 3.42s, this is for my car!)

With this enabled, spin the axles by hand while watching the VSS inputs in tunerstudio to make sure they work, then road test it.

If the sensor work and are reading correctly, then you can move on to the next step, enabling TCS:


All I did here was enable it, change it to VSS %slip, and set the slip threshold at 10. Everything else is default. You can make the CE light blink if TCS is active if you know which output the light's on (Bob? Eric?)

These settings produced a VSS signal from both sensors that tracks perfectly, though there's ~ a 2mph difference in the reading. I'll have to see if I can tune that out by messing with the smoothing settings.

Now, does it work? Well, it does something:


If you look closely at the bottom chart, the white line is actual spark advance, the red line is what the the ignition table is asking for. You can see that when I broke the rear wheels loose, even though the ignition advance from the table was asking for 23.5 degrees, the TCS system pulled it down to 3.5 trying to kill enough power for the tires to grab. This was a brake-stand burnout, so there was no way the thing would recover until I lifted. I just did it to see if the ECM would respond. Actually making it work to get the car to go faster is going to require track testing.

Now, apparently there's a danger here of a stock ignition module losing sync in this kind of situation. I have a TR6, I don't know if it'll have a problem or not. Bob might be able to shed some light on it. This is bleeding edge folks, so try at your own risk.
We can discuss options with the TR6, it has some unique features above the stock system (it won't de-sync, but it won't limit if you cut spark). But there are some cool things you can do with it.

On the Check Engine light, CanOut 15 and 16 both feed the Light thru the XIO processor, so you can assign multiple things like Traction control warning and CheckEngine and have them both work.

(CanOut 13 and 14 both feed the Aux Led on the case, so you can do similar stuff with it)

in most scenarios, the torque reduction from spark advance and dropping boost should be enough to get traction under control, of course tires, track, and which gear you're in play a part. But its not like you need to control traction on an icy road where the housewife refuses to lift the throttle......
So with the traction control on, you can launch with 10 pounds of boost while using the trans brake on the street ?

With my XFI (and no traction control), it is instant spin.
heh heh, what tires?

once we get the spark control set up, you could probably launch it that way, but it would likely be slower than driving it...

On the "street launch" situation, I would set it up with launch boost control to go with the traction control. Figure out what it will hold on the street, get that tuned, then use the traction control to handle the times when the street is dusty...

If you set the car up so it will launch on the tires once warmed, the traction control should be able to handle taming them when cold. A lot has to do with how well the tires will "regrab", which is tire, suspension, and street dependent. But the TC system is setup to handle launches.

Looking at the logfile. I really need to find a way to put on a front VSS on my car. it looks way too cool....

if your TR6 is at software rev 1.8 or later, then the 2-step input can be used as a "spark cutter", and we can toggle it with one of the ecu-GN outputs. Probably just need to use one of the generic output channels to drive the purge solenoid wire, and
activate it based on the traction control action. tie that to the 2-step trigger wire.
your VSS scaling seems to be off 10% front-to-back


Yup. I need to figure out why that is. At the least, I can fudge the tire diameter on an axle to even it out. The fact the sensors are completely different on each axle doesn't help. There's a 12 tooth hall effect on the front and a 4000 ppm VR on the rear and the ECM is doing math to figure out what that all means. If the inputs on tire diameter aren't precise, it's going to drift.

The 25.591 is what happens when you input 25.7 in the box, which is what Bridgestone says a 275/35R18 RE-71R is. But I run more pressure in the front than the rear. Is that tire going to be 10% larger in circumference? Unlikely, but yeah. Need to dial that in. The other unknown is what it's going to do when I pick the front right tire off the ground coming out of a corner. I may leave TCS disabled for the Autocross portions.

I'll be collecting a LOT of data this weekend. At least eight autocross runs, plus four track sessions, and the speed stop, which is where the TCS should come into play. My plan is to use my four morning runs at Speed Stop on Sunday (which is really 8 pulls, since both the left and right sides combined make up a "run") to fiddle with the TCS. I'll leave the autolearn on for the morning track session to fill in the high speed areas of the VE table I haven't visited yet.

If it all works, the try for good-er times in the afternoon. If it doesn't, I'll turn it off and go at the old fashioned way.
So with the traction control on, you can launch with 10 pounds of boost while using the trans brake on the street ?

With my XFI (and no traction control), it is instant spin.

So, maybe?

A combination of launch control and TCS settings and some good testing could get you to a spot where you stage, spool it, and just lift the brake and mash the throttle and off it goes.

But that would take some testing and tweaking. It's not going to just figure out a situation that extreme on its own.

And none of this should be used on the street. This TCS isn't for saving your ass in the rain. It's for limiting wheel slip for maximum acceleration. The TCS algorithms in the software were honed at Bonneville by people that are very interested in not experiencing uncontrollable wheelspin at 200+ MPH.
I did not think you plug it in then off you go and set records.

I would hope it used only on the track but it would be silly to think it.

I will be following