Used engine questions
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Any idea how many miles are on the engine? How hard it was run previously?
Probably should consider a new timing chain, rings, bearings, complete valve job & seals, new valve springs, possibly new camshaft & lifters or roller cam, etc. Don't forget to insure that the oil pump & water pump are functioning correctly.
Probably should consider a new timing chain, rings, bearings, complete valve job & seals, new valve springs, possibly new camshaft & lifters or roller cam, etc. Don't forget to insure that the oil pump & water pump are functioning correctly.
None what so ever. Other than covered with oil looked pretty clean and stock...
TURBOELKY
Well-Known Member
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- Jun 27, 2005
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- 3,474
You just mentioned....a complete rebuild!
You just mentioned....a complete rebuild!
Might as well do it right the first time vs. twice.
The most difficult part may be locating a competent machine shop.
dank GN
BlackArts Automotive (661)993-8277
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- Jan 11, 2009
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- 4,039
Okay I had a supposed fresh motor aswell With very low miles that I had just gone through . Put it this way I would go through any motor that is out with unknown health . If all is good then bolt it back together and be on your way but to not go through it while it's out is a gamble as you will see in this picture of a fresh build that was supposedly good to go by the seller I picked it up from . Luckily I saved the crank
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I bought a used engine of off a member here a few years back. He assured me there was nothing wrong with it and it came out of a 40k t type. I tore it down to a short block checked the rods and mains they looked great it had the original timing chain. Swapped that resealed entire engine with arp head bolts and that engine still runs great. Been at least 5 years. Should have done the springs wth the heads off. I was on a budget at the time.
- Joined
- May 26, 2001
- Messages
- 9,208
I have dealt with many used turbo Buick engines over the years, and even If they were low mileage, I would check them out before installing it.
If you did not hear it run, I would first do a leak down test.
If the readings are acceptable I would continue and remove the oil pan and see if there is a little or a lot of sludge. If not, the next step is to check all the rod bearings, and replace them if they are stock size with normal wear and no journal issues.
Next step is remove the timing cover, and the chain and gears can tell you a story, if it is a stock set, replace it.
If you do not have enough knowledge of engine internals, find someone that does, and have him examine all of the data gathered, and proceed from there.
I have seen many stock turbo engines well into 200K+ miles,and still run fine.
If you take this one apart, it will be $3000+ to properly freshen it, more if it need pistons.
An important factor in your decision is will you be satisified with basic stock engine performance with normal driving, or plan to add performance mods?
If you did not hear it run, I would first do a leak down test.
If the readings are acceptable I would continue and remove the oil pan and see if there is a little or a lot of sludge. If not, the next step is to check all the rod bearings, and replace them if they are stock size with normal wear and no journal issues.
Next step is remove the timing cover, and the chain and gears can tell you a story, if it is a stock set, replace it.
If you do not have enough knowledge of engine internals, find someone that does, and have him examine all of the data gathered, and proceed from there.
I have seen many stock turbo engines well into 200K+ miles,and still run fine.
If you take this one apart, it will be $3000+ to properly freshen it, more if it need pistons.
An important factor in your decision is will you be satisified with basic stock engine performance with normal driving, or plan to add performance mods?
Wow that encourages me to pull the oil pan and check the bearings... What's the best type oil pan gasket to use? Cork (told the best) or rubber one? Part number appreciated if you know one...
Does the engine need to be hot for a leak down test? Have it on an engine stand now...
- Joined
- May 26, 2001
- Messages
- 9,208
Engine does not need to be hot.
For a leak down test you need to loosen or remove the rockers so the valves are all closed. An auto parts store with a tool rental program should have the tester, and you also need compressed air.
I always use a cork pan gasket and RJC and TA Performance both sell them.
For a leak down test you need to loosen or remove the rockers so the valves are all closed. An auto parts store with a tool rental program should have the tester, and you also need compressed air.
I always use a cork pan gasket and RJC and TA Performance both sell them.
