Water in oil!?!?

BLACK Ttype

Getting Respectable!
Just rebuilt motor.....on startup, there is water in oil. Compression test shows 150 all around. No cracks in heads (magnafluxed). Stock bore size, and no porting on heads. WTF.....any ideas
 
how long has it run? could just be consdensation from not getting the engine up to temperature and keeping it there.
 
Pressure test it..........

If you are referring to pressure testing the coolant system, then that might be an awesome idea. I will add the black light die and pressurize the coolant system for a few minutes. I don't think that this will yield any immediate results as the leak is obviously inside of the engine somewhere. but at least this way I can look with the IR light while I'm taking off the intake manifold, water pump and valve covers hopefully IDing where the water is coming from. If you are talking about something else please elaborate.

Water pump bolts?

Great Idea, I hadn't even thought of that....I will check those along with the others. Thanks

how long has it run? could just be consdensation from not getting the engine up to temperature and keeping it there.

The motor ran for just a few minutes as I was trying to break in the new cam. The entire motor has been out of the car on an engine stand and just went back in last weekend. While it was out of the car it was stripped down, completely cleaned/honed, heads magnafluxed and valve jobed, etc.... I went through and replaced every "consumable" part so that the engine is like new. With that being said, I do not believe that it is condensation as the motor was just sealed up and filled with fluids the night before I started it up. One night should not be enough time for condensation to build up enough to turn the oil milky. If that were the case, our cars would have milky oil every time we start them on a cool morning.


To the others with seeping bolt / manifold ideas, thank you. I will be looking at these first to try to find my problem. (after dying the coolant/pressurizing)
 
water in oil

a couple of the head bolts screw into the water passages and without a thread sealant on the head bolt threads can causes problems ( just to elaborate on what was already mentioned)
 
The motor ran for just a few minutes as I was trying to break in the new cam. The entire motor has been out of the car on an engine stand and just went back in last weekend. While it was out of the car it was stripped down, completely cleaned/honed, heads magnafluxed and valve jobed, etc.... I went through and replaced every "consumable" part so that the engine is like new. With that being said, I do not believe that it is condensation as the motor was just sealed up and filled with fluids the night before I started it up. One night should not be enough time for condensation to build up enough to turn the oil milky. If that were the case, our cars would have milky oil every time we start them on a cool morning.

you'd be surprised how easy it is to get moisture in your oil when you start it up cold and don't get it nice and hot and keep it there for a while. check the oil cap of your daily driver every day before starting it cold, and then again after it's been running for a little while. it's not unusual to get some "milkyness" at the top of the motor where the moisture collects. the valve covers are especially prone to this, since they usually cool off faster than the rest of the engine after it is shut off.
 
you'd be surprised how easy it is to get moisture in your oil when you start it up cold and don't get it nice and hot and keep it there for a while. check the oil cap of your daily driver every day before starting it cold, and then again after it's been running for a little while. it's not unusual to get some "milkyness" at the top of the motor where the moisture collects. the valve covers are especially prone to this, since they usually cool off faster than the rest of the engine after it is shut off.

Oh no, this was way more than just "some milkyness". It looked like a Wendy's Frosty machine when I drained the oil pan, lol.

Well so far I have redone the water pump and sealed all of the bolts with RTV. I drained the bad oil and I'm gonna refill it today after I refill the coolant and pressurize it. I am gonna leave the oil plug out when I fill / pressurize coolant so I can see if water comes out.

Once coolant leak / seep is dealt with, what is your opinion on the best way to flush the crap oil from the engine? I was just gonna fill with clean oil, run for 2-3 minutes then drain and repeat 3 times for a total of 4 oil changes in 2 hours lol. Any other methods, intervals, suggestions?
 
To get the left overs out you'll need to take the engine apart. I hope you weren't using green antifreeze. It has silica in it that's like sand in your engine so if you did you'll need to replace all the bearings and vat the engine to get it all out.
 
To get the left overs out you'll need to take the engine apart. I hope you weren't using green antifreeze. It has silica in it that's like sand in your engine so if you did you'll need to replace all the bearings and vat the engine to get it all out.

I have greencoolant.....:redface:

I figure i have to redo the whole motor, this sucks damn it

#^$$&4747 sucka tash


should i even trythose tablets charlie, i got some now but ?????
sorry didnt mean to rip the thread
 
Are your bearing oversize? A neighbor gave me a huge box of turbo regal parts when he got out of them I MIGHT have the bearings you need and yes they are new
 
I have greencoolant.....:redface:

I figure i have to redo the whole motor, this sucks damn it

#^$$&4747 sucka tash


should i even trythose tablets charlie, i got some now but ?????
sorry didnt mean to rip the thread

Time to suck it up and belly up to the bar! Pull the motor and redo it. This is the only real solution to the problem. I know all to well as this is what is going on with my car as we speak. Brad
 
I have greencoolant.....:redface:

I figure i have to redo the whole motor, this sucks damn it

#^$$&4747 sucka tash


should i even trythose tablets charlie, i got some now but ?????
sorry didnt mean to rip the thread

Unless you need to move the car I'd start tearing it down now. The faster you get it torn down the faster you can get it back together after all.
 
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