We've got Contact! Out with old, in with new.

[ZNix]

The back 6 hours, I have been working to get that old, oil spouting stock turbo off of my car. What a terrible experience.. Anyways, it is FINALLY out.

After ripping the turbo out, I took off the compressor housing.. Guess what I found! You bet, housing to wheel contact and a ton of oil.

It is a good thing I got that off of my car.. Who knows what kind of metal I will find in my intercooler. I knew it needed a rebuild, but not this kind of rebuild. Check the in-out play.
Not pulled:

Slight pressure:

AND FINALLY! Here is my new (to me) turbo. It is a rebuilt 6131 with a Precision .63 exhaust housing. It was rebuilt by none other than Brian Bissonette, aka Bison.

Nix

 

[bison]

Pull that shot stocker apart and see if you can see any foreign metal embedded in the thrust bearing before you run the 6131

 

[ZNix]

Okay I will, thanks Brian. Also, when I do install my new turbo and clock it, what should I torque the housing bolts to? Should I put any loctite, or sealant on the bolts? Any sealant for the fitting for the oil feed?

Nix

 

[scojack_2001]

Not sure about the torque on the housing bolts, just don't go crazy on them.

You will need to seal the oil feed fitting. I used some teflon tape last time I had mine apart, no problems. Be gentle with that fitting too, or you'll be getting a new one.

Are you going to clean the IC out while you have it all apart?

 

[ZNix]

Yes, the intercooler will be cleaned. I am just going to poor a couple cap fulls of purple power into it, fill the rest with water and let it sit for an hour or so. Then, if more cleaning is needed, maybe something stronger. I replaced the whole feed line with a SS braided unit. Ill use teflon tape on the fittings.

Nix

 

[BIGPSI]

did it really take you 6hrs to get that turbo off?

 

[ZNix]

I included my break times, dinner, and a couple runs to the hardware store. If I worked straight through, maybe a couple hours. This was my first time taking the turbo off, and it was a stock turbo that's been on my car for 25 years. No need to bust my balls if it took me a little longer than you. Oh, and don't forget I am 17 with probably not as much mechanical experience as you.

 

[Boost231]

Bigpsi... I was thinking the same.

 

[charlief1]

Gas or E-85 will get rid of any oil residue in the cooler, but don't go crazy with the purple stuff. If you leave it in to long it can start to eat aluminum. Watered down it won't do it as easily but it can still effect it.

 

[ZNix]

I have some gas hanging around, Ill throw some in there after purple power is rinsed out. Thanks guys.

Nix

 

[charlief1]

Seal up the cooler and pour it in through the outlet. Shake the snot out of it and pour it out through the inlet so that it's like a back flush. That should help you get the metal out a little better.

 

[~JM~]

I wouldn't use Purple Power. I used it once to soak some aluminum cast parts & it started to attack the aluminum. I believe there is a warning on the back of the label about aluminum parts. If you want to use a "soap" I would use Simple Green instead.

I've used 1/2 gallon of gas to rinse out the I.C. followed by an extensive flushing from both ends with the hose. I rock & roll the I.C. during the whole process. Once I drain out all the water, I pour a bottle of rubbing alcohol inside & rock & roll it again to try & get the rest of the water out. I've done two I.C's this way so far without any problems.

I know what you mean about working on these cars & taking a long time to accomplish even what appears to be a simple task. Seems like most of the time there is at least one bolt that is hidden from view & positioned in a spot where you can only turn it a 1/4 turn at a time.

~JM~

 

[ZNix]

I wouldn't use Purple Power. I used it once to soak some aluminum cast parts & it started to attack the aluminum. I believe there is a warning on the back of the label about aluminum parts. If you want to use a "soap" I would use Simple Green instead.

I've used 1/2 gallon of gas to rinse out the I.C. followed by an extensive flushing from both ends with the hose. I rock & roll the I.C. during the whole process. Once I drain out all the water, I pour a bottle of rubbing alcohol inside & rock & roll it again to try & get the rest of the water out. I've done two I.C's this way so far without any problems.

I know what you mean about working on these cars & taking a long time to accomplish even what appears to be a simple task. Seems like most of the time there is at least one bolt that is hidden from view & positioned in a spot where you can only turn it a 1/4 turn at a time.

~JM~

Thanks JM. Ill give that a go. I flushed out the purple power ASAP. I severely diluted it anyways, so it probably was not effective. It was a cap full then filled with a garden hose lol. Working on these cars can be a pain, and painful, but its worth it. I can't wait to get my brand new shiny turbo with the polished THDP. I don't mind spending the time, even if it took me 6 hours, who cares? It probably was a total of 2 hours on the turbo, and the other 4 was dicking around and talking with my father.

 

[gmmuscle]

Taking time while removing old bolts is the way to go. Doing the frame off resto on my 72 monte, and the mini resto on my GN, did not break a single bolt. Got a friend who is not a car guy (and he's 6'3 250 and musclebound)who is working on an old Ford Tractor and his 90's bronco. Broke the back pass side exhaust manifold bolt on the Bronco and 3 months later he has managed to break off 2 extractors and now has no good drill point to remove them. The tractor has a broken head bolt that he broke about 3 years ago. It's just taking up garage space!

At 17 I was too stupid to think before I acted. Glad to hear your teachable and willing to learn.

Carl

 

[bison]

Okay I will, thanks Brian. Also, when I do install my new turbo and clock it, what should I torque the housing bolts to? Should I put any loctite, or sealant on the bolts? Any sealant for the fitting for the oil feed?

Nix

They are 8x1.25 and 5/16-18 so not too tight. I wouldnt use anything on the threads on the turbos housings. Use teflon paste on the threads of the oil feed.

 

[BIGPSI]

i just thought that was a long time,sorry not trying to bust you up. i was just thinking i changed one in about 20min at the track, but then again that was no dick off time and it wasnt the stocker thats been on for 25 yrs

 

[scojack_2001]

i just thought that was a long time,sorry not trying to bust you up. i was just thinking i changed one in about 20min at the track, but then again that was no dick off time and it wasnt the stocker thats been on for 25 yrs

My stock turbo wasn't too bad, but it was still a pain. Getting the oil drain line off was the worst part. The rest was easy.

 

[bison]

My stock turbo wasn't too bad, but it was still a pain. Getting the oil drain line off was the worst part. The rest was easy.

13mm ratchet wrench= 1 minute

 

[scojack_2001]

13mm ratchet wrench= 1 minute

That thing was concreted on there after 25 years!

 

[BIGPSI]

i use a 1/4" ratchet with a 6" extension swivel and short 13, makes it easy