You can type here any text you want

What specific items are needed for a stroker rotator assembly?

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!
Joined
Jan 31, 2006
Messages
8,819
1- Obviously a stroker crank
2- ????

Can the stock rods and stock dimension pistons be used?
what about the flywheel and balancers

The big question-- on two identical builds and same boost level -- stock stroke vs stroker is there a significant advantage one over the other?
 
Has to have longer "stroker rods" with Pistons to match with shorter skirts.... And then all the necessary balancing pieces. (Flywheel and balancer) oh and machine work to clearance the rotating assembly

I think the extra cubes from the stroker build would yield additional low end torque and possibly the ability to run less boost for equal horsepower. We will wait til the Buick gurus chime in.
 
Most all the stroker engines we do are with stock length rods but they are forged pieces. Longer rods give no advantage over stock length, and we prefer the pin to be lower from the piston deck.

As far as performance with stock stroke vs. stroker there is very little to gain at lower RPM levels, and not a lot at RPM over 6000. So on a typical street build and use, you will be hard pressed to find any added power.

A few years ago I freshened my race car engine and used a stock stroke China forged crank when they first came out to do a reliability test, China stroker cranks came out years later.

My car is very consistent as I run a heads-up index class and found the stock stroke to be only a tenth slower at the same boost and shifting 6600-6800 RPM.

Additional displacement is one way to gain power, but so is additional RPM. Years ago when working on a NHRA record setting GN, the Kenny D. engine was a de-stroked Stage II with 210 cu.in. displacement, but developed 1375 HP at over 9000 RPM on the dyno!
 
Keep in mind: As the rpm is increased, the inertial loading goes up by the square of the increase.
IE: 6000 to 7200 = 144%.
So, if you feel the need to twist it, be aware there needs to be REAL parts involved.:smuggrin:
 
Some forged rods with a stroker crank will hit the cam if it has any lift, especially a roller cam. The rods have to be ground where the threads end on the cam side. Weber sells clearanced K1 rods, or Molner rods come with almost enough clearance depending on the cam.
 
Last edited:
In my experience a street car will spool faster with added stroke. Against a converter at the track its all about moving air through the engine. 252 cid with 3.820" bore vs. 252 cid with a 4.0" bore is debatable for sure. Bore increase is probably better due to better head flow and more force on the piston with the same cylinder psi. The increase in stroke will increase rotational force applied to the crank centerline. (Like using longer torque wrench). Which makes more? Probably so close you wouldn't know.
Nick, on street driven cars did you notice better boost response?
Ported GN1's stroked 109 and ported intake the car runs 10.4 on 19 lbs with pump gas and alky. (Got kicked out due to no roll bar). This is his "slow" car and he has driven it up and down the west coast. Great running sleeper.
 
Back
Top