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What would it take to get 10.5 to 11.0 in the 1/4????

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fbodlovr

1/4 Mile Freak
Joined
Aug 14, 2005
Messages
703
Just like the title says. If I start off with a stock 87 engine, put in an afpr, walbro fuel pump w/hot wire kit, 67bb turbo, 75lb injectors, scanmaster, turbotweak chip, and intake, what beyond that would be needed to get to the 10.5 to 11.0 range?

Sorry, just trying to get an idea. Ive seen a few guys do it, but some dont show EVERY single mod. I DONT want to go into the engine. ie. rods, pistons, cranks, girdle. Dont mind an addressive cam though.
 
Fun costs..

Going that quick, I'd want better diagnostics..
1. Powerlogger.
2. Wideband O2, with record capabilities.
3. A trans rebuild to hold the power. [Likely, a converter, too.]
4. Upgraded suspension.
5. Slicks.
6. Hi flo exhaust.
In the 10's, is going to get the "rollbar policeman's" attn.:eek:
At 3700#, 10.50/125mph, U R needing approx 650FWHP.
At that level, a set of good heads would be an option I'd look at.

Just my $.02. Real world results may vary..:D
 
Who can take the stock trans and rebuild it to hold that kind of power? and how much does that usually cost?
 
Who can take the stock trans and rebuild it to hold that kind of power? and how much does that usually cost?

Jimmy's Transmission in Mundeleine, IL. Can't go wrong with this guy.

You have the right turbo and injectors selected. The engine will need to pull up to 6200 RPM in order to get to 125MPH with 28" tall tires, so the heads, cam, mains, and rotating assembly have to be up to the task.
 
Ok, how much would it cost to get the trans rebuilt? And Ive seen people with stock engines going that fast, how are they doing it without going inside the engine? Could I just get a set of rods and pistons, hone the cylinders, and be ok?

Oh yeah, will the stock rear hold up to that?
 
Ok, how much would it cost to get the trans rebuilt? And Ive seen people with stock engines going that fast, how are they doing it without going inside the engine? Could I just get a set of rods and pistons, hone the cylinders, and be ok?

Oh yeah, will the stock rear hold up to that?

Well I live right down the street from you, Well not that far anyway, They are some good people close to you, How much you want to spend is up to you, My Grand National has a shift kit and a art carr 3400 converter, It has a stock block with front intercooler, 66 Turbo and 60 lb injectors, At the Super Chevy it run 11.18 at 119.99 in the heat of the day with the tires spinning some on pump gas and a razor alky kit, I would build up the tranny and rear end before I even worried about the motor
 
Jimmy's Transmission in Mundeleine, IL. Can't go wrong with this guy.

You have the right turbo and injectors selected. The engine will need to pull up to 6200 RPM in order to get to 125MPH with 28" tall tires, so the heads, cam, mains, and rotating assembly have to be up to the task.


Huh ??? :confused: Those #'s aren't right. I go 133 mph @ 5700 rpm.

Even with a loose n/l converter I was 130mph @ 6100 with 28" tall slicks or DR's.
 
Scanmaster
EGT meter
C-16
3way valve job on the heads 100psi springs
214/214 cam
PT-67 Ptrim
RJC Boost Contoller
RJC Front Mount
Reds XP pump
Hotwire kit
Turbo Tweak Chip
60inj
3'' DP W/ Cut-Out "open"
Art Carr 3200 9'' stall
Len Freeman Trans
Volt booster
Stock headers
Stock MAF
Stock TB & Plenum
Slicks

5,700 rpm
10.90's Then the block cracked in half. I needed steel Main caps. :frown:

Stay in the 11's with a stock bottom end. ;)
 
I go about 126 every run with 28" MT drag radials and a stock 3.42 gear and go through the traps about 5,500 - 5,600 rpm. Jimmy built my transmission and he is great and really knows his stuff and most importantly stands behind his work. Add heads and a cam to what you have and you should be there.
 
This is what i would use:

Plenum inlet opened up to stock throttle body size and RJC powerplate
Ported and polished iron heads with .041 cometics for extra compression
FMIC or a good stock location
6776BB
60 lb mototron injectors with turbotweak race chip
Weld around tubes and port ex.manifolds to match heads and locate with dowels
3" dp with open exhaust or no exhaust
PTC 9.5 3000 stall billet stator converter
28.5x9 Phoenix slicks
HR rear bar
trans brake

These are the major items not including beefed up trans and rear as well as fuel and other suspension work. This could be made to work with alky easily also.
 
Huh ??? :confused: Those #'s aren't right. I go 133 mph @ 5700 rpm.

Even with a loose n/l converter I was 130mph @ 6100 with 28" tall slicks or DR's.

I'll double-check but my last run was 126 @ 6100-6200RPM.. according to powerlogger anyways. Didn't seem like anything was wrong. Maybe I stayed in it a bit past the traps....
 
I'll double-check but my last run was 126 @ 6100-6200RPM.. according to powerlogger anyways. Didn't seem like anything was wrong. Maybe I stayed in it a bit past the traps....

Well just another example of the type of stuff you run into in the 10's. After reviewing the data again, it seems I'm hitting 6g's about 2 seconds before the end of the run and lingering there... but the car still picks up speed. I bet I'm sucking all the oil out of the trans pan. time to start another thread.....
 
Well just another example of the type of stuff you run into in the 10's. After reviewing the data again, it seems I'm hitting 6g's about 2 seconds before the end of the run and lingering there... but the car still picks up speed. I bet I'm sucking all the oil out of the trans pan. time to start another thread.....

I doubt your sucking the pan dry or the direct clutches would be toast. Sounds like a converter slip problem.
 
I doubt your sucking the pan dry or the direct clutches would be toast. Sounds like a converter slip problem.

I suspect it because I've had the problem previously but haven't installed a deep pan yet... just overfilled it a quart and put the pan on my wish list. The converter is a vigilante 3200.
 
I suspect it because I've had the problem previously but haven't installed a deep pan yet... just overfilled it a quart and put the pan on my wish list. The converter is a vigilante 3200.
You would have a problem launching and burning the band on the 1-2. You wont pull enough g's in 3rd to suck air unless you underfilled and you would burn the band and drum for sure. I would definitely do something about the pan and pickup or at least a deflector to prevent the oil slosh on acceleration at your performance level.
 
I'll double-check but my last run was 126 @ 6100-6200RPM.. according to powerlogger anyways. Didn't seem like anything was wrong. Maybe I stayed in it a bit past the traps....


I would say you have way too much slip in your converter. If you are running 28" slicks that means you have approx 19.9% slippage. You should be down around 5700 rpm with roughly 10% slippage, if not better.
 
I would say you have way too much slip in your converter. If you are running 28" slicks that means you have approx 19.9% slippage. You should be down around 5700 rpm with roughly 10% slippage, if not better.

I have a 28.5 tall slick 6,200rpm @ 134mph 3,500 9'' "0" stall
 
I'll be looking into it for sure. Probably gonna try locking the clutch next time out.

Sorry about the hi-jack fbodlovr...
 
I like the lists so far..

I didnt see alky on the lists however. Seeing that u certainly have enough injector, I would watch the fuel supply very carefully. The 340 should be fine but the alky will supply more than enough for sure.
 
Oh yeah a well built jimmys trans will be about $1,900.00. Also comes with the best warranty in the business.
 
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