Which fuel pump

[GNICETRY]

Ok, I bought an '87 turbo regal with 65k on it. Had spring cleaning done in Sept 2013. I have a scanmaster and 42lb Injector/Chip Combo (Chip v5.7) installed.160 thermostat. no adj fuel pressure regulator. Stock fuel pump, no hot wire kit installed. Original Turbo, Factory Air box, Has K&N breathers, Original timing chain, No after market boost gauge, Stock turbo downpipe, Cat and exhaust have been upgraded.

The consensus seems to be that my next steps should be an upgraded fuel pump and a hotwire kit.

Which fuel pump would be best for street driven car weekends only (no racing)?

I think the first step for any Turbo Regal should be the fuel system.

If you still have the factory intake and downpipe and no boost gauge or adjustable regulator than in reality you are not into performance and pretty much any of the above pumps would work for you. I have Ractronix's G7 kit with sender and pump and larger fuel lines on it and am very happy with it. Very easy install.

 

[CatMan00]

I've went through 3 Delphi pumps in 6 months. I am looking for another. It sounds like DW300 is the winner? let me know if I'm wrong before purchasing I tried to find sellers on here but Summit seems to have one. Let me know if any of you are looking to sell beforehand. Cheers!

 

[1986 Buick GX1]

I've went through 3 Delphi pumps in 6 months. I am looking for another. It sounds like DW300 is the winner? let me know if I'm wrong before purchasing I tried to find sellers on here but Summit seems to have one. Let me know if any of you are looking to sell beforehand. Cheers!

The best drop in pumps would be the Racetronix or walbro. The DW pumps require trimming the bottom of the hanger for the filter sock.
Size depends on your goals and fuel type.
It’s best to get a new fuel pump hanger with upgraded wiring, in this case just get a complete Racetronix setup (pump and hanger assy w/ hotwire) from Full throttle, Cruz Performance or whoever is closest to you (shipping).
The factory wiring bulkhead at the top of the hanger has been known to cause trouble with larger than stock pumps.

The stock pump base is oval, the DW pump base is round. Not a big deal to me, but for some it is.

 

[CatMan00]

The best drop in pumps would be the Racetronix or walbro. The DW pumps require trimming the bottom of the hanger for the filter sock.
Size depends on your goals and fuel type.
It’s best to get a new fuel pump hanger with upgraded wiring, in this case just get a complete Racetronix setup (pump and hanger assy w/ hotwire) from Full throttle, Cruz Performance or whoever is closest to you (shipping).
The factory wiring bulkhead at the top of the hanger has been known to cause trouble with larger than stock pumps.

The stock pump base is oval, the DW pump base is round. Not a big deal to me, but for some it is.

View attachment 395287

Thanks, I can trim and that won't be an issue. I am looking just to not have to keep changing pumps. I ordered the DW300 just to have something in case I do upgrade other areas. So far I've only upgraded the MAF.

It looks like many are complaining about the Walbro and that was concerning.

 

[1986 Buick GX1]

The DW300 is a 340lph pump and draws more current than a stock pump.
In some cases the stock return line can’t handle the increased return flow to the tank causing increased fuel pressure at the rail.
Make sure to monitor fuel pressure rise while going wide open.
Make sure you have 1:1 fuel pressure increase with boost.
Example: 43 psi base fuel pressure + 20 psi boost = 63 psi fuel pressure.

 

[CatMan00]

The DW300 is a 340lph pump and draws more current than a stock pump.
In some cases the stock return line can’t handle the increased return flow to the tank causing increased fuel pressure at the rail.
Make sure to monitor fuel pressure rise while going wide open.
Make sure you have 1:1 fuel pressure increase with boost.
Example: 43 psi base fuel pressure + 20 psi boost = 63 psi fuel pressure.

Man I feel like im in school again (but its fun learning)..

would love to chat about what you just said. I supposed I can go down to the DW200 (they haven't shipped yet).

 

[1986 Buick GX1]

Let’s say the engine uses 20lph at idle, that means whatever is left over has to go back to the tank.
If you make enough power for a 255lph, 235lph has to go back to the tank at idle.
If you need a 340lph pump, 320lph has to go back to the tank at idle.
The stock return line is barely 1/8” at the fittings for the fuel pressure regulator, the transition from the steel line to the rubber hose on the backside of the power steering pump. It seems there’s one at the back some where, but not sure.
Worst cases are when the return line is clogged or pinched.
If the fuel can’t flow back to the tank freely, then it builds up pressure at the fuel rail.
I believe a 255 lph pump with a hot wire kit and a volt booster is good for close to 500 hp on gasoline. Not as much on E85.

Just in case you’re not familiar.
Links: hot wire kit

Fuel Pump Wiring Upgrade 1984/1987

Fuel Pump Wiring Upgrade 1984/1987Absolutely essential upgrade item for your turbo car! Increases fuel pump volume by 15% or more! By far the finest 12 gage

www.casperselectronics.com

Volt booster

V-Plus Volt Booster 86/87

V-Plus Volt Booster 86/87 Your alternator is designed to put out a specific voltage to your electrical system, typically 13.2 volts. The car battery can then be continuously charged while the engine is running. The problem with this system is when there is a greater demand on the electrical system—

www.casperselectronics.com

 

[THensley]

I don't think you have enough mods for the 300. The Racetronix in my car has been there 6 years
I run racetronix 255 .hot wired with 60 lb injectors, my injected duty cycle is 75%. I go 11.4 @118 mph
IT has good street manners BLMs 128 +- 5 all day long

 

[CatMan00]

Let’s say the engine uses 20lph at idle, that means whatever is left over has to go back to the tank.
If you make enough power for a 255lph, 235lph has to go back to the tank at idle.
If you need a 340lph pump, 320lph has to go back to the tank at idle.
The stock return line is barely 1/8” at the fittings for the fuel pressure regulator, the transition from the steel line to the rubber hose on the backside of the power steering pump. It seems there’s one at the back some where, but not sure.
Worst cases are when the return line is clogged or pinched.
If the fuel can’t flow back to the tank freely, then it builds up pressure at the fuel rail.
I believe a 255 lph pump with a hot wire kit and a volt booster is good for close to 500 hp on gasoline. Not as much on E85.

Just in case you’re not familiar.
Links: hot wire kit

Fuel Pump Wiring Upgrade 1984/1987

Fuel Pump Wiring Upgrade 1984/1987Absolutely essential upgrade item for your turbo car! Increases fuel pump volume by 15% or more! By far the finest 12 gage

www.casperselectronics.com

Volt booster

V-Plus Volt Booster 86/87

V-Plus Volt Booster 86/87 Your alternator is designed to put out a specific voltage to your electrical system, typically 13.2 volts. The car battery can then be continuously charged while the engine is running. The problem with this system is when there is a greater demand on the electrical system—

www.casperselectronics.com

Man you rock.. I'll get these too. Right now my car is showing 13 and 18 PSI from the pump.
I had read this article before posting in here: https://www.aemelectronics.com/blog...h-flow fuel pumps allow,liters per hour (lph).

This part of the article is what stood out: "In most cases, it's time to upgrade your fuel pump to a high flow version when you make engine modifications that significantly increase airflow into the engine. However, if you are having issues with a stock fuel pump and plan to make engine upgrades in the future, it may be a good time to install a high-flow fuel pump."

I was thinking the DW300 made sense as I plan to be mostly stock but in the event I change my mind I had options.

I'll be getting those recommended options(links you shared) as well. Will I be fine with this DW300 for a bit or am I going to be having performance or gas waste until I get more performance parts?

 

[CatMan00]

I don't think you have enough mods for the 300. The Racetronix in my car has been there 6 years
I run racetronix 255 .hot wired with 60 lb injectors, my injected duty cycle is 75%. I go 11.4 @118 mph
IT has good street manners BLMs 128 +- 5 all day long

Injectors will be done: I have some coil and exhaust updates to do (a bunch of pebble sized holes in the stock muffler). So I plan on updating these and thin I can start on the other stuff. Looking forward to chatting about these. I chatted with a gent on here about Fuel Injectors I think it's Chuck L?

 

[TurboTGuy]

Holy 2014!
LOL

Chuck knows injectors, no doubt.

 

[CatMan00]

I don't think you have enough mods for the 300. The Racetronix in my car has been there 6 years
I run racetronix 255 .hot wired with 60 lb injectors, my injected duty cycle is 75%. I go 11.4 @118 mph
IT has good street manners BLMs 128 +- 5 all day long

Question for you.. what would be a good mod to take use of this pump? (being that I don't want to return it at this point lol but I just may). TIA

 

[THensley]

1986 Buick said it best .First you need to upgrade the wiring to the pump.
Second fuel lines need to be upsize. to keep fuel pressure undercoontrul
Then you'll need $7,500+ in engine mods to make 600+ horsepower to make good use of your new $150 fuel pump.
LOL about 2014

 

[CatMan00]

1986 Buick said it best .First you need to upgrade the wiring to the pump.
Second fuel lines need to be upsize. to keep fuel pressure undercoontrul
Then you'll need $7,500+ in engine mods to make 600+ horsepower to make good use of your new $150 fuel pump.
LOL about 2014

Sheesh! well I did just order the DW200. It'll be here Saturday.. I will just return the other one or at least use it for a few days and then store it until I'm ready for it.

 

[1986 Buick GX1]

Question for you.. what would be a good mod to take use of this pump? (being that I don't want to return it at this point lol but I just may). TIA

The best mods are maintenance.
The factory plastic coated timing gears are a ticking time bomb. The factory valve springs are worn out and will float before redline and in some cases even before the shift points.

It’s very hard to be patient and get the car running perfect before modding, but is a must.

Turbo tweak makes chips for our modern sub par fuels, older chips have too much timing.

The first mod to a stock car is octane and boost.

Mark sells DW pumps as well as a lot of really cool stuff.

TR Custom Parts - Unique Products for 84-87 Turbo Regals

Custom dress-up and performance parts & accessories for the 84-7 Turbo Regals. Cold air kits, MAF pipes, Up pipes, dash and console overlay kits, pullstrap screw covers, license plates, frames, headers, downpipes, exhaust systems, turbo protectors, fuel pressure gauge kits and much more!

www.buickgn.com

If you can add info about your car in your signature, we can see what your working with and be more help.
If you’re on a phone, turn it sideways to see the signatures.

 

[dynoman]

CatMan00 , where are you located ? It's good to have a Turbo Buick brother near by .

 

[CatMan00]

The best mods are maintenance.
The factory plastic coated timing gears are a ticking time bomb. The factory valve springs are worn out and will float before redline and in some cases even before the shift points.

It’s very hard to be patient and get the car running perfect before modding, but is a must.

Turbo tweak makes chips for our modern sub par fuels, older chips have too much timing.

The first mod to a stock car is octane and boost.

Mark sells DW pumps as well as a lot of really cool stuff.

TR Custom Parts - Unique Products for 84-87 Turbo Regals

Custom dress-up and performance parts & accessories for the 84-7 Turbo Regals. Cold air kits, MAF pipes, Up pipes, dash and console overlay kits, pullstrap screw covers, license plates, frames, headers, downpipes, exhaust systems, turbo protectors, fuel pressure gauge kits and much more!

www.buickgn.com

If you can add info about your car in your signature, we can see what your working with and be more help.
If you’re on a phone, turn it sideways to see the signatures.

Thanks man. I ended up getting the DW200 as well. Going to take your approach. Get the car running normally. Then I’ll start to do the little stuff.

 

[TIMINATOR]

Gee, nobody has mentioned opening up the hole in the hanger nipple where the pump feeds directly into it! In my stock hanger, the opening has a rolled crimp on the end to facilitate fitting the pumps discharge hose onto it easily during manufacture. But the hanger line is 3/8" and the fuel pump discharge hose is 5/16" and the hole in the 5/16" swaged end of the hanger is less than .200". That's almost exactly one HALF of the area of the 5/16" swaged area!
So, that is quite a restriction right above the pump discharge!
Being extremely picky, I cut off the restricted end and made a 1 1/4" long nipple of 5/16" tubing, put a bubble end on it using the small insert from a double flare kit, making enough of a "bubble" to help keep the hose on with a clamp. I cleaned the inside of the hanger tube and the plating from my new nipple, slid it into the hanger tube about 3/8" and soldered it with a micro butane torch and acid core solder. Now the hose has double the area for flow and a retention bubble for the discharge hose. This would help even with a stock pump, but is more important with a larger one. Or maybe I'm just looking for trouble.....
TIMINATOR

 

[TIMINATOR]

Opening up the swaged end would be an improvement, but you can't get a flaring tool in there to do the bubble end and I wanted a longer "barb" for the hose anyway. I assembled it with the 255, dead headed the outlet with a gauge, submerged the pump in WD-40, ran it on 13.2 volts for a few seconds, and saw 110 PSI! No leaks, and the check valve held the pressure for over a minute before I released it. I wanted to test it before installing it in the tank too.
I did all of that because testing it before all of this, it leaked from the hose at the small shorter swaged end! Did you test yours, or did you blame the pump?
TIMINATOR

 

[Chuck Leeper]

I've went through 3 Delphi pumps in 6 months.

Most likely one or more of the following problems....
** Low volts that the OEM wiring may be responsible for.
** Poor ground. Could be the entire system.
** Knock off pumps.