The low volts would be solved by a Hotwire kit correct?Most likely one or more of the following problems....
** Low volts that the OEM wiring may be responsible for.
** Poor ground. Could be the entire system.
** Knock off pumps.
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SignUp Now!The low volts would be solved by a Hotwire kit correct?Most likely one or more of the following problems....
** Low volts that the OEM wiring may be responsible for.
** Poor ground. Could be the entire system.
** Knock off pumps.
Not necessarily.....The low volts would be solved by a Hotwire kit correct?
Thank you! I've got the new pump in DW200.. running good. Still have some weird idle'ing. My IAC stays in the 100s and my BLM is 150. Volts on the Scanmaster G are at 13 +/- 1Not necessarily.....
Poor ground will also cause issues.
It's necessary to do a volt drop test on both the + and - sides.
Fuel psi is? Line on and line off, vac plugged?Thank you! I've got the new pump in DW200.. running good. Still have some weird idle'ing. My IAC stays in the 100s and my BLM is 150. Volts on the Scanmaster G are at 13 +/- 1
I did the jumper of the aldl to reset. Does that reset the ecm? My o2 sensor reading is all over too.Fuel psi is? Line on and line off, vac plugged?
What's the voltage at the alt?
What's the volt drop test say?
Did you unhook the ecm allow a reset?
What's idle rpm hot?
No only disconnect orange wire in close to the battery will reset ECUFuel psi is? Line on and line off, vac plugged?
What's the voltage at the alt?
What's the volt drop test say?
Did you unhook the ecm allow a reset?
What's idle rpm hot?
Thank you and Chuck for the help. So I reset the ECM as mentioned. Still sluggish on the start (cold). Revs up and down and almost stalls if it doesn’t stall. Gas/fume smell and while not heavy, some smoke exhaust.You have spent good money on a good quality pump properly sized for your application. (IMO) during installation did you confirm all the lines to and from the tank are open and good working order?
Fuel pressure is key to proper Idle. 43 psi is a bass starting point it is not not in stone.
IAC TPS all need to be in factory parameters.
You need to learn to walk chow gum rub your belly and pat your head all at the same time to get BLMs to 128.
Chuck and others has asked the right ? You need to write the ?s down, record the results and check them off and report back.
Then you need to get IAC and TPS closer to factory.
High BLM and 02s is to much fuel
Adjusting fuel pressure will not give you instant results more like 5 miles of drive time not 10 min of driveway time. and don't drive it like you stole it. take your grandma to DQ for ice cream.
These cars require lots of patience so you need to be a doctor , but not a protoliges pulling your head out of your A$$ and asking yourself what do it try next.
this is good info and why IAC is high need to start opening the throttle blade and get IAC numbers down to 25 and readjust TPS back to .42Also notice when starting the vehicle. The acceleration pedal is sticking a little on initial pressure of my foot.
this is why BLM is high need to rase fuel pressure to 40 or 42 , vacuum line OFF and 30 to 35 is not a good number it should be a steady not moving number a rock solid 42 psi, This is bass pressure for a TT chip. If its moving you have a fuel filter or pickup screen blockage or bad regulatorI didn’t check the lines but the mechanic said they did. They said my fuel pressure is 30-35
Thank you for the response. Just to ask did clarity, when you say open the throttle blade, you mean open and clean it or something else?this is good info and why IAC is high need to start opening the throttle blade and get IAC numbers down to 25 and readjust TPS back to .42
this is why BLM is high need to rase fuel pressure to 40 or 42 , vacuum line OFF and 30 to 35 is not a good number it should be a steady not moving number a rock solid 42 psi, This is bass pressure for a TT chip. If its moving you have a fuel filter or pickup screen blockage or bad regulator
To open the throttle blade just turn the adjustment screw. Most people think it’s the idle speed adjustment screw, myself included. It should be called the airflow adjustment screw or something more pertinent.Thank you for the response. Just to ask did clarity, when you say open the throttle blade, you mean open and clean it or something else?
In regards to the fuel filter just replaced it when putting in the pump. Pick up screen is in the pump correct, that’s new too as it came with pump. So let me try a new regulator. Any recommendations?
Okay I did change that. I was on vortex and they said to do this reset procedure and I got the rpms down to lower and that’s when it felt like it struggled. However some other things got in alignment.To open the throttle blade just turn the adjustment screw. Most people think it’s the idle speed adjustment screw, myself included. It should be called the airflow adjustment screw or something more pertinent.
By opening the throttle blade, more air gets through the throttle body and the idle air control motor closes down to get the proper fuel mixture. An IAC of 25 is telling you where to adjust the throttle blade.
More than likely your throttle blade is completely closed and is sticking.
2 birds, 1 stone
yes start turning the screw in. dose it have the little gray boot over it ? start at 1/4 turn watch the IAC and TPS , like I said you will have to learn two things at a time
Did some tinkeringyes start turning the screw in. dose it have the little gray boot over it ? start at 1/4 turn watch the IAC and TPS , like I said you will have to learn two things at a time
Unless you put a gauge on the fuel rail(no transducer) ya get one with a transducer connected to the gauge.Did some tinkering
Readings at idle:
IAC: 23 and 18
O2CC: 39, 84, 96, 109, 221
Lv8 30, 28, 32
Int 136-146
BLM: 150
Rpm 750
TPS .44
Going to get a fuel pressure reader. Was looking online. Not seeing a lot videos of how they hook up the reader
Also my chip is not a TT it says acxa