Which fuel pump

STOP !!! you don't need a ECM you need a TT chip First ! ! Then you need to get fuel pressure correct.
Then we work on IAC and BLM.
If you want a new exhaust go for it Summit racing bolt on Pypes works good. Remember it only has 6 cylinders it will never sound like your neighbors fox body. No deep sounding Turbo Buicks You need to watch a few YouTube videos.
Scooby is talking about exhaust leaks Pre turbo Im sure those clowns don't have a clue how to smoke a Buick good chance you have a bad drivers side header like 99.9% chance. It really dose need to be confirmed no exhaust Leakes from header to CAT.
Lots of welded OE for sale. Mostly because we got tired of fixing them. This just my opinion buy a new set from TA performance or Cruz Performance There are more but my #1 chose is TA. MY OPINION.
MOST SHOPS HAVE THERE HEAD UP THERE A$$ when it coms to Turbo Buick. IF you don't see three Turbo Buicks out front keep on driving.
there are some shops that work on these cars but most of us do most of our own work.
Lots of CAPS and !!! points if you don't slow down in 3 months you will be hatting this car. you might have to change 3 things to fix one but you have to do it in the correct order!!
 
Fuel pressure tester arrived.
Here are the results:
It started high then slowly got lower and lower
 

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Are those readings at idle? Driving? If those are at idle it's going to get worse once you put load on the engine (driving).
Post up some more info, such as what the engine was operating at when those readings were taken. I would avoid driving the car at all right now with fuel pressure that low, any boost and your going to go extreamly lean very quickly!
 
Are those readings at idle? Driving? If those are at idle it's going to get worse once you put load on the engine (driving).
Post up some more info, such as what the engine was operating at when those readings were taken. I would avoid driving the car at all right now with fuel pressure that low, any boost and your going to go extreamly lean very quickly!
This is with the ignition turn to run but not on
 
OK, thats the pressure bleeding off after the pump primes, not a big deal.

Post up what the pressure is doing at idle, engine warmed up with the vacuum line disconnected from the fuel pressure regulator. Thats your base fuel pressure. That pressure will drop once the vacuum line is reconnected to the fuel pressure regulator (engine still running).

Post up your base fuel pressure as a starting point.
 
OK, thats the pressure bleeding off after the pump primes, not a big deal.

Post up what the pressure is doing at idle, engine warmed up with the vacuum line disconnected from the fuel pressure regulator. Thats your base fuel pressure. That pressure will drop once the vacuum line is reconnected to the fuel pressure regulator (engine still running).

Post up your base fuel pressure as a starting point.
Okay I’ll do that today. Thank you!
 
So tested fuel pump again with the car running.
Here’s what I noticed. When the car struggles the fuel pressure is close to 40 and then it thrives when lowering fuel pressure. It almost stalls when it reaches 40. I couldn’t share the video. Maybe I’ll load it to YouTube.

reading is about 35 for the most part.
 

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Different chips run different fuel pressures. You're not using a TT chip which Eric recommends at 43 PSI line off. Search engine isn't working when I searched your chip. Stop what you're doing...and order a chip from Eric. When it arrives follow Erics directions to the letter. With the car warmed up in Park...give us the SM numbers...with Erics chip.
 
Different chips run different fuel pressures. You're not using a TT chip which Eric recommends at 43 PSI line off. Search engine isn't working when I searched your chip. Stop what you're doing...and order a chip from Eric. When it arrives follow Erics directions to the letter. With the car warmed up in Park...give us the SM numbers...with Erics chip.
Left him a vm last week. Waiting on the call back. He may be off for the holidays.
 
Catman00 wrote - "Also my chip is not a TT it says acxa"
ACXA is the stock chip that came in late 86 cars and all 87 cars.

stock 86-87 GN fuel pressure (FPR) should be 38-40 psi at idle with the vac line off at the fpr. it will drop to 28-30psi with the vac line connected.
 
Everything is stock but the MAF and fuel pump. Got the MAF from Eric.
You have a stock chip in your car, with stock injectors.
Start the car, remove the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator and adjust anywhere between 38-40psi. Then re-attach the vacuum line to the regulator. That's where you should be on pressure for a stock GN.
 
You have a stock chip in your car, with stock injectors.
Start the car, remove the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator and adjust anywhere between 38-40psi. Then re-attach the vacuum line to the regulator. That's where you should be on pressure for a stock GN.
I’d need an adjustable regulator for that correct?
 
I’d need an adjustable regulator for that correct?
My bad I forgot its all stock and so is the fuel pressure regulator.
What is the fuel pressure with your stock fuel regulator with car running and the vacuum line disconnected from the FPR?
 
So tested fuel pump again with the car running.
Here’s what I noticed. When the car struggles the fuel pressure is close to 40 and then it thrives (when lowering fuel pressure). It almost stalls when it reaches 40. I couldn’t share the video. Maybe I’ll load it to YouTube.

reading is about 35 for the most part.
you never stated if the PSI readings were with the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator removed or plugged in.
 
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