You can type here any text you want

which is the better turbo?

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!

USMC_Turbo6

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 13, 2009
Messages
1,605
I'm looking into getting one of the following turbos the PT6765 DBB or CPT 72BB with the F1 wheel. An want to know which would be the better turbo.
 
Are you buying new or used? The 6765 is now the 6766. It has a new turbine wheel and housing to match. I would go with the 6262 or the 6266 with S cover ported shroud if its not going to see a ton of track time. Im expecting you're preparing to battle light to light like the infamous "Meanchicken". The Turbonetics turbo is too big for that. It really will only shine at the track with high boost or on the highway with battles from 65mph-130mph or so. The 6766 H cover ported shroud if you are going to the track a lot and a .63 exhaust housing. I have no experience with the BB units but with the way the 6262 and 6765(hp cover .85ex) spooled with converters that stall at 2800 at 0-1 psi i didn't need it. Better have a converter that stalls at 3000rpm@0-1 psi and 3500@5psi if you buy a precision .85 exhaust housing and journal bearing for light to light encounters.
 
the question is better for what?your sig says you have a 70 series turbo with the big .85 housing on there already thats a 9 second turbo right there.
 
Either will likely support way more power than you will be making. The 65 wheel is an f1. There are different versions though. The larger 68 ex will spool considerably slower. I ran an old p trim 72bb for a couple years long ago and it made really good power on the combo I ran it on. It spooled about the same as a large shaft 63 journal turbo.
 
A lot of my war will be like meanchicken, but I will be doing a lot back woods 1/4 racing for some MONEY:D. So I need to bring my A game from the word GO!!!!!


Here is what it's going on:

109 block
stroker kit with 3.625 crank with a 5.970 rod
Billet main cap 1-3
RJC girdle
Champion Iron ported race heads with matching ported intake
70mm TB
60lbs inj, ls1 MAF with Trans (moving up to 80Lbs)
FMIC
215/220 roller cam
Scan master
1.5 roller rocks
Razor's alky Dual kit
tt chip
RJC Pulleys
RED double pumps
Power logger
AEM Wideband o2
3200 stall
Need new turbo gave my dad my old one (the t70 BB) was thinking 6765 DBB ported S cover, with 63 housing.
 
If you are bringing your A game I'd be putting a large ballast box in, adjustable drag shocks, ordering up a set of 29" slicks, buying a 9.5" ptc, and any 66 or larger compressor with a 65,66,or 68 ex. I'd get a ecu that has some wideband correction and spend time getting it close on a dyno. If you were racing me you should expect all of what I said and more.
 
If you are bringing your A game I'd be putting a large ballast box in, adjustable drag shocks, ordering up a set of 29" slicks, buying a 9.5" ptc, and any 66 or larger compressor with a 65,66,or 68 ex. I'd get a ecu that has some wideband correction and spend time getting it close on a dyno. If you were racing me you should expect all of what I said and more.

I have the shocks and I'm getting a HR suspension kit. So are you saying I should move up to fast for the ecm and 275/60/15 M/T ET Streets will not cut it.
 
I would also get some HR motor mounts if you don't have them. MT 275/60/15 are 28 inches tall.
 
I have the shocks and I'm getting a HR suspension kit. So are you saying I should move up to fast for the ecm and 275/60/15 M/T ET Streets will not cut it.
I'd be using tall slicks if I was looking for the most. I run FAST but it's not necessarily needed.
 
I have a TE 63-1 and it has a good bit of lag from a rolling start. What I do, is start applying the brakes and gas at the same time and do it as so you remain the same speed. When you start to hear it whine, then nod your head and nail it cause it's on.:biggrin:
 
I'd be using tall slicks if I was looking for the most. I run FAST but it's not necessarily needed.

Ok thats good to know that I dont need fast. So get the slick to race with and MT et street to ride around on.
 
You better get some practice if you plan on racing anyone with anything worth beating. Throwing parts at it won't net you crap if you don't practice.
 
You better get some practice if you plan on racing anyone with anything worth beating. Throwing parts at it won't net you crap if you don't practice.

Your very right about that!! I live 15 min from the track and they have test and tune every Friday so I will be putting in the work at the track to get good at my craft before I put up a lot of money to run for. Practice make perfect or a Hell of a lot better.
 
Your very right about that!! I live 15 min from the track and they have test and tune every Friday so I will be putting in the work at the track to get good at my craft before I put up a lot of money to run for. Practice make perfect or a Hell of a lot better.

About how fast are the cars you will be up against? Learned a very important thing from Spot My 6 who used to post on here. Get your car to hook the best you can in the spot you intend to race. Be it the street or strip. Then test it the same way at the track and see what it runs.
 
About how fast are the cars you will be up against? Learned a very important thing from Spot My 6 who used to post on here. Get your car to hook the best you can in the spot you intend to race. Be it the street or strip. Then test it the same way at the track and see what it runs.
I have been known to spray down the area i will be running at. You pretty much will always need some ballast on the street. Use track bite and mix it with 50% methanol and apply with a small pressure vessel for applying bug spray around foundations. The track bite will remain in the spot you applied it for a long time. They will want you to spot their 8
 
Your very right about that!! I live 15 min from the track and they have test and tune every Friday so I will be putting in the work at the track to get good at my craft before I put up a lot of money to run for. Practice make perfect or a Hell of a lot better.

15 MINUTES FROM THE TRACK!!!thats freekin awsome... im moving
 
About how fast are the cars you will be up against? Learned a very important thing from Spot My 6 who used to post on here. Get your car to hook the best you can in the spot you intend to race. Be it the street or strip. Then test it the same way at the track and see what it runs.[/QUOTE

A lot of the cars are mid to low 11 sec car if that. Most are Mustangs, Novas, SRT 8 Jeep and Charger on NOS, SS Trail blazer with nos, S10 pickups, Monte carlos, G8 on NOS, Camaros. So I know the field kind of well all racing will be done in the street. It to bad that any of you guys don't live near by its some money to be made here in the south on the street.
 
i would b interested n buying your turb asap .shoot me your info /turbo part# and a price and lets make a deal. im in det.48205 and would pay for shipping.Calvin 248-910-5418.
 
You better get some practice if you plan on racing anyone with anything worth beating. Throwing parts at it won't net you crap if you don't practice.
Yeah Turbo6....Bison is right. Gotta get your game up before you street race. Now your talking my language....We do lots of street racing up here in the NY, NJ, CONN Metro area....been in this game for over 20yrs...my advice is to practice most on your HOLE SHOT!!! [60ft] after that your car will do the rest ;) Mayb one day a couple other forum brothers and myself can saddle up and make a road trip....And really show them the power of the darkside!!!! Oh and ofcourse take their $$$$$
 
Back
Top