WHich would be safer and create more performance, N20 or ALKY??

[Boostnitup]

Bottlefed

What did you use for engagement of the two stages?

I was given a suggestion to utilize a Casper's rpm conversion switch to engage the first stage. Evidently this is an item Casper's offers in converting the tach signal for usage in rpm related items.

I would assume a manual engagement switch of some sort could also work. (If there is a way to mount it on the '87 Intake?)

My one concern was fuel/nitrous oxide atomization within the upper intake. I pointed the nozzles up to shoot toward the roof of the upper doghousing and slightly forward to spray into the air stream (hoping this will distribute everything evenly with the incoming airflow).

Your fuel system... are you using a dedicated system for the nitrous? Or... are you coming off the fuel rail?


btw... you can reach me at Boostnitup@yahoo.com (I have a bunch more questions!)

 

[OTHRWMN]

I am in the process of tuning my Turbo T with alky & juice it's getting a little frustrating.There so many things to monitor. Boost,when the alky comes on,knock,how much alky,fuelpresure,bottle presure, etc..etc.. oh yeah the road must remember to watch the road.

 

[wilkinshc]

Boostnitup,

I might be able to answer some of your questions since the six pack fogger setup is my old system.

He has it setup up on the a manual throttle switch for the first stage and the second is setup on a manual switch inside. Next step is to set it up with a nitous control to bring it on a little more gradually, he has traction problems even with slicks. And with the control he can bring the second stage on consistantly.

He is run a separate fuel cell mounted where the spare tire was.

He is running a thumbwheel chip that I burnt for him, setup with different time tables for one stage, two stages, with and without race gas.

Chuck

 

[OTHRWMN]

I'm getting a little knock in first gear I think it's because at wot the n20 comes on before my alky.I think I need to have my alky come on at 8-10 lbs then when I'm at wot and the n20 comes on the alky will be there. I am using the a tps control instead of a microswitch or button maybe I should change that? As for my other questions What size shot are you using?I am using my pte street chip it has 20 degrees of timing I think that my be to much what do you think?


Any info would be helpful!

Thanks.

 

[wilkinshc]

Othrwnm,

Depending what shot of nitrous you are running. Also what your timing table looks like. The timing table is like a spread sheet with rpm and load. So 20 on top might be fine and you might just need to adjust the time from 3000 rpm and lower, depend on your setup. The best bet is to record a couple of direct scan runs and let us look at them and we can give you an idea what you need to do.

Chuck

 

[OTHRWMN]

Right now the only scan tool I have is my otc. T link is on the way, sorry thats just what alot of the guys I 'm around use.

My system is just a 35 horse shot @ wot.I have 50 & 75 horse jets I have'nt used.

 

[wilkinshc]

OTHRWMN,

Not sure what your goals are but with a 75shot of nitrous and gas race using a street chip and all else being stock you should be able to run 12.3 to 12.4 with MT ET street tires. Looking at your signature it looks like you have a stock setup with upgrade fuel system. I would leave the SMC kit for the street and no nitrous and use the nitrous and race gas for when you want to clean some clock.

Just my opinion.

Chuck

 

[OTHRWMN]

I like that idea. The car ran great with my race chip,alky & 20 or so pounds of boost any problem with that? Then at the track with slicks,race gas and no alky just n2o do you think are 11's possible?At the track what chip would you use and would you use a 75 horse shot or somthing smaller. I am guessing the race gas will keep it from knocking. At the track what would you set the boost at before n20? I have a hks evc so I can set the boost really where ever I need to I was thinking between 10 & 12 pounds would be safe.
What do you think?


Thanks again for all your input!

 

[wilkinshc]

I run 16lbs of boost (prenitrous boost level) with 20 degree of timing on a completely stock motor. When you hit the nitrous (75hp jets) you should be at 19lbs of boost. With race gas and 75 shot of nitrous and slicks you should be low 12's, even high elevens at sea level. I would run one range colder on the plugs with a gap of .032. Make sure the engine is in good tune.

Chuck

 

[OTHRWMN]

Thanks again! Our track opens April 7th I'll let you know what happens.

 

[TwinTurboIroc]

just a FYI

ANY type of boost motor is harder on EVERYTHING than a nitrous motor

and that statement about hyperucraptic pistons is wrong, i have many friends who use those in 11 second rides with big nitrous hits and no problems, but wont hold up in boosted motors because of the extreme stress that boost puts on a motor being that it is almost always making boost, but just bypassing it

Nitrous is cheap and fun because usually, most STOCK motors will last much longer with just nitrous use

 

[Steve]

Just wanted to give my input on this subject. Back in 94 I had a Gn and I ran it with nitrous for a while. When I first bought the car I added a 2.5" Hooker dp, a 237 reg, Red XP pump, Red's 108 chip, race gas, and a dump pipe and it ran a best of 12.03 @ 113mph with a 1.65 60' on 26X8.5 slicks. That day it ran about 5 runs between 12.00 and 12.10, but would not run an 11.99 like I wanted. I bought a NOS nitrous system and took it back to the track with everything being the same including the race gas. Of course I didn't run a the 108 chip I used a Red's 93 and I turned to the boost down to 16 which would go to 19-20 on the bottle. It ran a best of 11.98 @ 114 mph with a 1.76 60'. If I could have managed to get my 60' down to my previous best of 1.65 it would have run an 11.80 or maybe and 11.70. I was pretty disappointed, I expected more than a tenth or two but did not get it. My 60' was off becasue it was rich with the stock jetting, and when I backed off the fuel to attempt to pick the 60' up I blew a head gasket. I am not a nitrous basher and I run nitrous on every other car I have built. The mods I listed above where the only mods to the car-it still had the stock turbo, intercooler w/ the stock neck, and stock injectors. Another thing to consider is that just cost of the nitrous system is not the whole story. If you run in the winter you will need a bottle heater to get optimum performance, a purge is not 100% necessary but is a nice addition, then a micro switch, a hobbs switch to prevent lean out, and then the cost of the nitrous. Like I said just wanted to give my .02's worth or maybe it just .01's worth? Thanks Steve

 

[Red Canyonero]

ANY type of boost motor is harder on EVERYTHING than a nitrous motor

I dunno, go talk to some of the guys in the NMCA. All I hear are people praising the turbo motors for lasting 30-50 runs before teardowns, and the nitrous motor crews having to teardown at a MUCH higher frequency.

I firmly believe a well thought out turbo setup is much easier on a motor than a nitrous is.

I'm sure you can bring up examples of Mustangs lasting years on nitrous, and Buicks running strong for years on boost... but to me it comes down to the cylinder pressures. Nitrous is more of a spike, a large delta in pressure, and more of a shock to the motor than boost is. Boost brings elevated pressures obviously, but there isn't the shock that nitrous brings.

Just my $0.02
Brian Green
89 TTA

 

[OTHRWMN]

This the kind of input I wanted! I am still a little bothered by using the nitrous on my car.These cars are finicky enough the way they are. I have not even used the system yet because I need new injectors. My car is leaning out at the top of third and into the top of fourth. I am 99% sure my stock injectors are the cause of this. If I would have sprayed it opening day I would be head gasket shopping. I am strongly concidering converting my kit to the N ter cooler kit that NX sells. You see we are a NX dealer so I feel the need to spray somthing other then my daily driven Jeep Grand 5.9 (13.80 @ 100 mph on the bottle) because if I mess that up I am in real trouble!!

This is a great topic lets keep it going!!!

 

[OTHRWMN]

This the kind of input I wanted! I am still a little bothered by using the nitrous on my car.These cars are finicky enough the way they are. I have not even used the system yet because I need new injectors. My car is leaning out at the top of third and into the top of fourth. I am 99% sure my stock injectors are the cause of this. If I would have sprayed it opening day I would be head gasket shopping. I am strongly concidering converting my kit to the N ter cooler kit that NX sells. You see we are a NX dealer so I feel the need to spray somthing other then my daily driven Jeep Grand 5.9 (13.80 @ 100 mph on the bottle) because if I mess that up I am in real trouble!!

This is a great topic lets keep it going!!!

 

[BOTLFED]

JUST FOG IT!!!!!!

Come on guys just get in there and squeeze that bad boy believe me i have pushed this gn to a good limit on the bottle, with lots of knock , more than you could ever imagine, heck i don't even lift i wait till the motor just shuts itself OFF! and detinating like a mother and she is still running strong with a 120,00 on the stock parts hell i didn't even turn the boost down running about 20 pounds plus..these motors will take a beating. and you can bet i am not going to stop here. THE MUTANT IS ALIVE AND GET MORE DEADLY!!!!!!!! JUST THINK WHAT A FRESH MOTOR WOULD DO FOR ME WITH ALL THESE GOODIES