Who's ready for some 3800 power?!

[GBGN1]

In studying the pic better...I would remove the idler pulley and come directly off the crank, and go around the pump and then under the tensioner. You need to find or modify a grooved pulley for the water pump and it should solve any issue you have.

You ever bother to study a 3100/3400 set up? Like I said I can change pulley size for more surface area on wp. After the headers are done, which will be soon . If it needs a change I'll do it. Thanks for the support.

 

[Red C5]

Nice job. Looking forward to more updates.

 

[quickt]

Im real interested to see the headers. Might even be a player on a set. The headers and DP are the key to making a swap kit. I made my headers to use the regular LC2 DP. That was a mistake IMO as it causes some other fitment problems with the intake, turbo inlet pipe. If I had it to do over I would have done the same thing it looks like you are doing. Put engine in the car. Mount the turbo where it fits the best and build the headers with a new DP. I ended up creating a lot of work moving other stuff around the turbo so I could use stock DP.

 

[GBGN1]

Would also need a different water pump as that would change the rotation of it. I agree that there currently isn't enough belt contact with the WP pulley.

RemoveBeforeFlight[/Q
There are no other wb available with a different rotation. It's not needed.
Thanks for the support

 

[GBGN1]

Im real interested to see the headers. Might even be a player on a set. The headers and DP are the key to making a swap kit. I made my headers to use the regular LC2 DP. That was a mistake IMO as it causes some other fitment problems with the intake, turbo inlet pipe. If I had it to do over I would have done the same thing it looks like you are doing. Put engine in the car. Mount the turbo where it fits the best and build the headers with a new DP. I ended up creating a lot of work moving other stuff around the turbo so I could use stock DP.

Yes Lonnie, that's what we are doing. It will be done right. I really wanted to do it for the community. So everything is installed , turbo placement is good. Well probably start with a regular dp , fab it to work and have a totally new pipe made.

 

[GBGN1]

T

Nice job. Looking forward to more updates.

Thanks!!

 

[slimtastic]

You ever bother to study a 3100/3400 set up? Like I said I can change pulley size for more surface area on wp. After the headers are done, which will be soon . If it needs a change I'll do it. Thanks for the support.

I think the water pump belt wrap will be fine, besides most factory water pumps have cavitation at high rpms to begin with... Either way this is an initial build and working out bugs will be later on, if it needs to be addresses then we will cross that bridge when we get there

 

[GBGN1]

Great Job! looks real nice. Is that a plastic intake you are using, i was not aware of any front facing intakes like that. Did you have to modify or does one exist.

Thankyou very much. Its a l26 intake .Cheap and available everywhere. No its aluminum. later model 3800

 

[MNcarbturbo]

Awesome! So did you block off the heater elbows in the heater hose block on the right head so it doesnt need to flow into it and just left it out? Are you going to put heater hoses in it? The 3800 blocks are sweet. After building both 3800 and 3.8 its obvious whats better. Factory roller cam, obd2, spread ports instead of shared, tough rotating assem., cross bolted mains, snout mounted oilpump, ect.

Sent via a potato with the sour cream and shredded cheese app

 

[GBGN1]

Awesome! So did you block off the heater elbows in the heater hose block on the right head so it doesnt need to flow into it and just left it out? Are you going to put heater hoses in it? The 3800 blocks are sweet. After building both 3800 and 3.8 its obvious whats better. Factory roller cam, obd2, spread ports instead of shared, tough rotating assem., cross bolted mains, snout mounted oilpump, ect.

Sent via a potato with the sour cream and shredded cheese app

Yes it will be hooked to the heater core. But no the elbows are long gone. There will be tigged nipple at wb inlet and the thermostat housing we fabbed up. Should work good!!

 

[20psiofevil]

Love the potential these engines are capable of stock.

 

[bison]

In scrolling thru the pics...the only issue I see is the amount of belt engagement on the water pump pulley. I believe it will slip under WOT. You need to get the belt around it somehow.

Yup


BPE2013@hotmail.com

 

[bison]

Id be interested in a set of nice headers also.


BPE2013@hotmail.com

 

[ZNix]

I would be too.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[GBGN1]

Yup


BPE2013@hotmail.com

This is the first design. If it does slip I have a couple other idea's. We'll make it work.

 

[Wahoo]

This is a sweet build! I can't wait to see the results!

You did have to fab up engine mounts right?

 

[GBGN1]

No just grind a boss off the side of block. Used stock mounts. Easy

 

[ZNix]

No just grind a boss off the side of block. Used stock mounts. Easy

This is what I've heard. This means we could use TA Poly mounts right?

 

[GBGN1]

No I can use stock mounts!! If u want

 

[bison]

This is the first design. If it does slip I have a couple other idea's. We'll make it work.

Have the general design hug the engine close to leave room for down pipes and wastegates. Also make the flange area easily workable so we're not pigeon holed on ex housing options.


BPE2013@hotmail.com