Wideband Noob!

[boosted3]

Pic of the install completed.

A little over $600 and several hours of my time and the gauges are all installed and working great! Thanks for all the help from my fellow Buick enthusiasts on making my decisions and helping with easing the install! Time to get this boost under control and go hunting for some prey! :biggrin:

 

[AdReNaLiNe]

I appreciate your response and the attention to detail in it.

I will use this to wire mine up this week! Thanks again!

ok, this is exactly how i wired mine up.
Do not install the sensor in the dowpipe or connect it to the harness. That will come later during calibration.

From the gauge harness:
Red wire to LPS on fuse panel
Black to ground.
Yellow to ground. (I found that the gauge lighting is no brighter than the scanmaster so i wasnt worried about the light dimming for night)
White to Brown wire on harness from LC1.

From the LC1 Harness:
Red to IGN on fuse panel.
Blue to Ground
White to Ground. (I attached the wires from the gauge to one ground wire and the wires from the LC1 harness to a second ground wire and ran both through the firewall grounding to the upper intake grounding stud near the throttle bracket.)
Brown to white gauge wire.
Yellow not connected.(This wire can be used to run to powerlogger if you get one.

Now the LED and the push button switch come into play.
Connect the red wire from the LED and one side of the switch (doesnt matter which) to the black of the LC1 harness.
Connect the black wire from the LED and the other side of the switch to the same ground wire as the others from the harness. (See White to ground explanation above.)

At this point you should not have the sensor in your downpipe and it should not be hooked up to the harness.
The rest of this is directly from the instructions for calibration of the sensor.

Switch your ignition on and wait 20 seconds. During this time the LED will flash a 2 blink sequence repeatedly. After 20 seconds, turn the ignition off.
Now connect the sensor to the harness but do not install it in the downpipe. The sensor must be able to read clean air in order to calibrate.
Switch the ignition on again. The led will start blinking slowly and steadily indicating that it is warming up. It will then start to blink faster until it will finally stay lit with no blinking which means the sensor is heated up and ready to calibrate. Press and hold the button in for 30 seconds. During this time the light will go out. Once the button is released the LED will come back on. Now the sensor will calibrate itself with the clean air. After the sensor is done calibrating the LED will light up continuously. Calibration complete.
Now you can install the sensor in the downpipe and proceed with tuning.
I am currently working on an overboosting problem so I have not tried to tune with the gauge and I dont know what number I should be shooting for so maybe someone can weigh in on what the target number is that we should be looking for. You can see in my photo of the Wideband gauge that I installed the LED above the gauge and the calibration button to the left of the gauge. Everything fit there with plenty of room and its easy to see and access while calibrating.
HTH! Good luck with the install!

 

[CGASTON]

Wideband

This is a totally amazing and amount of detail is extraodinary. I have been looking and waiting for something like this to appear in TB. Thanks guys for all the info. Time to buy mine now since I know where to locate it....

 

[CGASTON]

Forgot something!!!

What would be the benefit, if you can, of installing 6 widebands for each cylinder? If you can, how would you do that? Is it more benefitial than one? Please explain.....

 

[slow305]

What would be the benefit, if you can, of installing 6 widebands for each cylinder? If you can, how would you do that? Is it more benefitial than one? Please explain.....

I think that they would all be too close to the heads and would be exposed to too much heat so they wouldn't last too long. If you wanted to go this route of monitoring each cylinder, you would would be better off going with pyrometers (EGT gauges) for each cylinder.

I was interesting in looking at this thread because I too have an LC-1 installed. My problem is the stupid thing will not last for more than 30 minutes without throwing up insane readings, essentially a broken unit. I have sent the controller back three times already and bought two sensors. All times, it will work for about 30 minutes, then done. What gives? Everything is mounted in the same general vicinity as the OP's setup.

 

[84BuickGNYorkPA]

I was interesting in looking at this thread because I too have an LC-1 installed. My problem is the stupid thing will not last for more than 30 minutes without throwing up insane readings, essentially a broken unit. I have sent the controller back three times already and bought two sensors. All times, it will work for about 30 minutes, then done. What gives? Everything is mounted in the same general vicinity as the OP's setup.

The grounds are really sensitive, (I'm assuming you already know that) I have my grounds go to the same strip, that has another wire that goes to the motor block for the ground. I also had problem untill I moved everything to the end of the downpipe for the sensor and put the LC1 controller at the brake proportioning valve, then wired in through the firewall. Going on 2 yrs now at this location with no problems so far. I think that in general the LC1 system is very sensitive, the next time I may go with a different system. Eric @ Turbo Tweak has a favorite that he sells on his website, and it's simple.

Chuck

 

[slow305]

I also had problem untill I moved everything to the end of the downpipe for the sensor and put the LC1 controller at the brake proportioning valve, then wired in through the firewall. Going on 2 yrs now at this location with no problems so far. I think that in general the LC1 system is very sensitive, the next time I may go with a different system.

How did you get it to reach all the way to the proportioning valve? The furthest I can get it to go is behind the coil. The last time I hooked it up, I ended up splicing about 3 feet of wire between the sensor and controller so it would reach the inside of my vehicle. I was looking at that AEM one as a replacement. I will never go back to the LC-1.

 

[84BuickGNYorkPA]

How did you get it to reach all the way to the proportioning valve? The furthest I can get it to go is behind the coil. The last time I hooked it up, I ended up splicing about 3 feet of wire between the sensor and controller so it would reach the inside of my vehicle. I was looking at that AEM one as a replacement. I will never go back to the LC-1.

With the O2 sensor bung, at the end of the downpipe there was plenty of cable to reach the brake valve, also plenty of cable to from there to under the dash, through the firewall (regular spot).

Chuck

 

[T What?]

good information here.

 

[GNRick]

I know nothing about wide band O2 sensors but i think I know a little something about grounds. After installing my transmission the mechanic forgot to install the ground strap from the fire wall to the back of the d/s head. I ran the ground to the intake bolt holding the bracket for the ignition module. Car would run and die out intermittently and then barely start and stay running. Was a nightmare. I posted the problem on the board and some said it was not a ground problem and others said to put the ground strap back on the head where it belongs. After repositioning the ground strap to the head all was fine again. So I would not ground anything to the intake. Just my .02.

 

[Fast4Ward]

AEM I have recommends 16" to 32" from turbo & before cat. Any closer burns out your sensor. I have mine at 3/4 downpipe.