My friend, Gareth (85zoom) took out his Fluk meter and test the grounds. I recieved no ground and voltage was fluctuating. He took out his Chiltons Reference book and looked over the schematic on the wastegate solenoid. the wastegate solenoid was in line with the brake switch, EGR control, and purge valve solenoid (i think that's what its called), and they were in line with the ECM/SOL fuse. I checked under the dash, pulled out the 10A fuse and found it was blown. CRAP!! oh well...that was the culprit. Gareth provided me the new 10A fuse and plugged it back in. Took the car out for a run, and punched it from a stop, and from a 50mph roll. YAY!!! No light. we went back to my friends house, and I had to go back home. On my way home, the FRICKEN SES LIGHT TURNS BACK ON!!! I looked under the dash again to see if the fuse blew out again. sure enough the fuse blew. I replaced it and I called my friend back. He refered to the Chiltons schematic and suggested I take off the purge valve solenoid and run it again. On my way to the barbers, the SES light shows again. CRAP AGAIN!!! So I plugged back the purge valve solenoid. And I called my friend again, he said to unplug the EGR solenoid. I havent ran the car yet, there's no telling what might happen, till I run the car again. It can't be my brake switch, because I'm using a vacuum brake system. Or some brake switch by my pedal? isnt that the brake light switch? I dont know. Possibly its both. I was reading a section in gnttype.org about switches and came upon the TCC Defeat trick. Linking the brake switch into thinking the car had its brakes on and unlocking the Torque converter. Seems to complicated for me to understand the logic between the TCC, torque converter and the brake swich. I looked under the car, and there is 2 plugs attached to my pedal assembly, but on to what I think is the brake switch, seems logical. Where was I getting to again??? So possibly, my brake switch, if thats the one I'm looking at, could be bad also since its inline with the ECM/SOL fuse. Well...I didnt have anymore 10A fuse so, there's a 20A fuse in its place. So, when I run around town tonight and the SES light turns on with a blown fuse, its not the EGR solenoid. All that's left is the brake switch on my brake pedal assembly (if thats the same switch). Then I'd have to remove the brake switch plug, with the pink wire with the black stripe on the brake switch. If that still sends an SES Light and a blown fuse? Man...this sucks! Knowing the Chiltons manual isnt complete, is there other things along the ECM/SOL fuse that could blow it? Something has to be grounding out some where to make it blow. Weird thing though, I hooked up the scanner again to see any new codes. Code 31 is still present. Why? I have no idea. Another question, can a low battery cause my fuse to blow? seems like a retarded question, but my battery was reading less that 12V, which is understandable, with the key on the "ON" position, likely there would be load, possibly resulting the low voltage. When we took the readings on the EGR, the wastegate solenoid, and the MAF...they read 11.71V after changing out the fuse. Any suggestions from any of you guys??? Can the ECM cause the ECM/SOL fuse to blow? maybe a pinched wire? well...I'm going to find out soon if the EGR or brake switch is related to this. I'll keep you all posted. Keep the suggestions and ideas coming!!! Also, if any of you have a GM reference book...what else is tied in the ECM/SOL fuse other than those I mentioned? Thanks.