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200-4R out of 89 Caddy..what to change?

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Thanks

I will be calling tomorrow.

On a side note I was able to locate several OG code 200 4R cores and a KT code core. This leads to the question, 77cruiser what are you using your OG behind. Is this a good one to pick up to put behind my 455? Obviously a 'performance' rebuild with the 'good' parts is in order. Also should I be getting the driveshaft, or atleast the yoke?

Also if anyone is interested in a core let me know as these are available for around $400 plus shipping from Houston, but I could bring one to Dallas Christmas or New Years Week end.

Thanks for the input.

Rich
 
TexasT said:
On a side note I was able to locate several OG code 200 4R cores and a KT code core. This leads to the question, 77cruiser what are you using your OG behind. Is this a good one to pick up to put behind my 455? Obviously a 'performance' rebuild with the 'good' parts is in order. Also should I be getting the driveshaft, or atleast the yoke?

Also if anyone is interested in a core let me know as these are available for around $400 plus shipping from Houston, but I could bring one to Dallas Christmas or New Years Week end.

Thanks for the input.

Rich
OG & KT are prob. close to the same. I wouldn't use a OG it I could help it again. Shift points are hard to get right. If you read what I went through then you know, but as far as the rest it's fine. BTW I'm using mine behind a 385 SBC prob. bout 400-425 hp. Yoke is the same as a 350 or glide.
Also if you are paying $400 for a core it should be a perf. one & not a generic.
I think most generic cores go for $50 - $100
 
I agree

I'm with ya on the price but this is what the yard was asking. I will keep looking for the AA or brf. Thought someone might want one.

Thanks to Hacksaw for this link on identification http://members.aol.com/powerrslid/thm2004r.html

Is there a link to what you did?

Thanks.

Rich
 
Wrecking yards sometimes charge sky high prices. One told me they had a GN 200-4R for $400, but I had them check the case code. It turned out to be the common OG, so I said no thanks.

At the DIY yards the 200-4R is $50 to $80, but the odds of finding a performance one there is almost none.

I do know someone who has a real BR, but he wants $550 for, and it has 40,000 miles on it. So much for depreciation.

If someone won't/can't tell me the model code, I won't buy it unless it's a great deal.
 
chris718 said:
manual isnt listed on the site but call in at 718 784 4256.not many left as of now maybe 50 .718 784 4256

Well, I hope there is one left, I told my wife to contact you, that I wanted one for Christmas. Not bad eh, I'm pretty easy, now lets see, socks, shorts and a tranny manual.....

:cool:
 
I sent in my money order for the manual

Very nice on the phone. I'm looking forward to receiving it.

Rich
 
Got My Manual

All I can say is WOW. I haven't read it yet but man if the pix are any indication this is a very informative book. A bunch of time and effort went into this book.

Big Thanks to CK Performance

Rich
 
Came across two AA Cadillac 200 4R

I think that the AA code is from the 4.1L Cadillac engine equipped cars. I would guess this is a better VB as the engine needed more rpm to get it going in the heavy car. I also came upon the KT code 200 4R which was behind a 307, also in a Cadillac. I was under the impression that the 307(5.0L) had more low end torque so the VB wasn't calibrated with very high shift points.

On a side note those of you who can't do without a BRF VB here's a link to one

382200 Valve Body, 2004R Turbo Buick, Monte Super Set $371.38

http://www.powerandperformancenews.com/store/merchant.mvc

you might have to search the 382200 part number.
 
200 behind 455

hey texas i had the same issue. i have a 68 skylark with sf 455. the turbo 400 was killing me at 60 mph. i was just experimenting and bought a 200 at my local yard out of 86 caddy. i have no idea of what code it is and the converter was out of something else. i put a transgo kit in it and had a drive shaft made bought a tci lock up kit. again no idea how many miles what valve body or stall. that was 3 years ago and its finally starting to slip on the 2-3 shift. but 1-2,3-4 will still make you bight your tongue. locks up more consistantly than my 87 gn. maybe i got lucky maybe not but if my gn tranny can hold 500 hp then my skylark tranny can hold 500lb/ft. at idle. 12 bolt with eaton. i don't know if you have done this yet but i say go for it now and sort the small stuff later. it can be very inexpensive and greatly rewarding.
 
Thank you for the encouragement. I picked up an ATSG manual as well as the "BOOK" from CK Performance. I also got a Haynes manual off of Ebay and have been reading up. My time has been limited but I'm almost done with the bathroom remodel.

I was able to pick up 2 AA cores and a BRF core from a GN(This one will go into my we4). I'm trying to decide what specialty tools I need. We are also in the middle of a job change which will require a move so I'm not sure when I'll get to it but it will go in.

Sounds like you got a good one.
 
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