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2004R converter slippage too much, need it fixed

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care to elaborate?
It has a much higher rev capability so it is easier to spec a higher stall smaller diameter converter for it that will stall down low and couple up top. No turbo to worry about down low and no low rpm power band to have to work with.
 
Here in the Buick world we have an engine that makes no torque until its on boost or up on the pipe as some of us refer to. When the engine is on Boost you have a ton of torque. Example you have a small cam v-6 or even stock with a turbo that is too large for the combo (very popular here). The engine rpm range is say 2000-5000. They need a converter that has to have a flash stall of 3500 to get the turbo on boost and they need to shift at 5000 because they are out of camshaft. You have a 1500 rpm window or less to work with. In your case you have snap torque you dont need to wait on a turbo to spool so you can use a much tighter converter or a converter that is much closer to the advertised stall. You torque is like flipping a light switch and probably have a shift point in the mid 5500-6000 range. You could probably use a 2300-2500 converter advertised stall and get it to flash to 2800-3000. With the example Buick that converter is more like a 4000 in the real world. When I get the phone call from the fella that has a stock cam engine with a 67GTQ dual ball bearing :eek:that guy needs a multi disk lock up. This is a common problem in the V-6 world. The NA V-8 guys dont have this problem. Your car assuming I am anywhere close you can have a lock-up built that will work in the range you are looking for. The Buick example is a nightmare. The Buick example will need to lock the converter for efficiency.
 
We still need some engine details like your shift rpm and cam size to help you. What heads are you using? The converter should be fairly easy to get to work. Your current converter may just have the wrong configuration to get any better than what you are seeing.

What does the current converter flash to on launch? Do you feel it's just right or what would you change about it down low? Does it leave hard enough or to slow?
 
We still need some engine details like your shift rpm and cam size to help you. What heads are you using? The converter should be fairly easy to get to work. Your current converter may just have the wrong configuration to get any better than what you are seeing.

What does the current converter flash to on launch? Do you feel it's just right or what would you change about it down low? Does it leave hard enough or to slow?

solid flat tappet, 249/255 @ 50 106 lobe seperation.

AFR 195cc eliminators, street version.

the current converter flahes about 3500-3800 max. i feel like i could afford to go to 4000 and the car would like it as long as it wasnt terribly different on the street. i heard about those non lock up ones that are real efficient and within a hair of the actual lockup rpm cruising. if that's the case i'd be interested in an 8 or 9 inch 4000.
 
solid flat tappet, 249/255 @ 50 106 lobe seperation.

AFR 195cc eliminators, street version.

the current converter flahes about 3500-3800 max. i feel like i could afford to go to 4000 and the car would like it as long as it wasnt terribly different on the street. i heard about those non lock up ones that are real efficient and within a hair of the actual lockup rpm cruising. if that's the case i'd be interested in an 8 or 9 inch 4000.

Imo it will need a converter that will flash to at least 5300 for decent e.t potential. Flashing to 5600-5700 would be better. That cam has a lot of overlap for a 327 and is suited to make high peaky hp which requires high stall speeds.
 
it's not really big to be honest. i could daily drive it, and in good weather, i do. it idles at 1000 rpm makes 7 inches of vacuum. you have to keep in mind the lash is .016 so to compare it to a hdyraulic cam, its more like 241/247 @ .050. also, the advertised duration is 278/284. the camshaft intensity is high but the engine "sees" the cam as smaller with the shorter advertised duration. not sure if you know all this, just putting it out there.
 
Here in the Buick world we have an engine that makes no torque until its on boost or up on the pipe as some of us refer to. When the engine is on Boost you have a ton of torque. Example you have a small cam v-6 or even stock with a turbo that is too large for the combo (very popular here). The engine rpm range is say 2000-5000. They need a converter that has to have a flash stall of 3500 to get the turbo on boost and they need to shift at 5000 because they are out of camshaft. You have a 1500 rpm window or less to work with. In your case you have snap torque you dont need to wait on a turbo to spool so you can use a much tighter converter or a converter that is much closer to the advertised stall. You torque is like flipping a light switch and probably have a shift point in the mid 5500-6000 range. You could probably use a 2300-2500 converter advertised stall and get it to flash to 2800-3000. With the example Buick that converter is more like a 4000 in the real world. When I get the phone call from the fella that has a stock cam engine with a 67GTQ dual ball bearing :eek:that guy needs a multi disk lock up. This is a common problem in the V-6 world. The NA V-8 guys dont have this problem. Your car assuming I am anywhere close you can have a lock-up built that will work in the range you are looking for. The Buick example is a nightmare. The Buick example will need to lock the converter for efficiency.

That's my combo.

Took a Vig 3600 to get the TE45A to spool a stock long block, needed the lockup since the stock cam doesn't like 5600 rpm through the traps.

Are you at the shop on Wed? I need to ask you something.
 
what about line pressure as far as slippage goes? if i up the line pressure will that have any effect on ET or MPH?
 
what about line pressure as far as slippage goes? if i up the line pressure will that have any effect on ET or MPH?

Not really recommended. Trying the fool the converter with fluid pressure build-up wouldn't be the best way to handle this.

Really, the only way to address it is just what you are doing, by testing. You can try another 10" lock-up that may be able to get your slip where you want it. With your rpm range, it's possible.
 
sure it is a 1968 chevelle original numbers matching 327. 3500 pounds, pump gas, runs on 91 octane. 2004R that i love so much, 9.5 inch converter that i have a love-hate relationship right now and the original 8.2 inch 10 bolt. 4.11 gear. 28 inch tall drag radial.

here is a picture of the launch:

http://img84.imageshack.us/img84/376/chevellewheelierear1103.png

the car is 100% street car, but i love the track and wish to bracket it next year. i would bracket it right now, but im so anal about how it is running i won't let myself bracket it until it is safely in the 11s. ok so i guess im lying its a 90% street car. i can deal with some crap though. solid cams no problem, higher stall is OK, etc. ive had it since i was 15. bought in early 2005, been working on it ever since. i grabbed a chassis service manual and a set of hand tools and went at it. made some mistakes along the way and now i am where i am. luckily i found team chevelle in 2006, they have been great help and a great bunch of guys in general.

here are some videos:

YouTube - 1968 chevelle 327 burnout

YouTube - 1968 chevelle 327 launch

YouTube - 1968 chevelle 327 1/4 mile pass

the car looks real dark in the dark but it is actually blue. i painted it in july of this year finally.

Thats a good looking car and she gets it. Not bad for a big car with a small block. I think she even pulls the wheel in that launch too! Thanks for sharing! I will say those Z06's sound sick!! I ran a friend of mine in his. I can hold him off through about 100 and thats it. He comes around me like I am sitting still!

Ok back to you, I really think you can not go wrong with the PTC.

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/transmission-talk/302663-ptc-converters.html

follow the link. Read what other guys are saying too! Hope you come around;)
 
it's not really big to be honest. i could daily drive it, and in good weather, i do. it idles at 1000 rpm makes 7 inches of vacuum. you have to keep in mind the lash is .016 so to compare it to a hdyraulic cam, its more like 241/247 @ .050. also, the advertised duration is 278/284. the camshaft intensity is high but the engine "sees" the cam as smaller with the shorter advertised duration. not sure if you know all this, just putting it out there.

Its quite a bit for a car that sees a lot of drive time. Definitely not a cam that will develop a lot of torque. Converter and gear will really wake it up Shorter advertised duration with moderate duration at .050 just means it has a more aggressive ramp. Then again most of us drive turbocharged engines that have much smaller profiles. Believe it or not the fastest of the fast run a similar duration or slightly less bu with much less overlap.
 
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