4.1 stock block build

[jmendlik]

Nick-got a part number on this K&P mesh filter for the V6 Buick Motor?

"Also, I run a K&P mesh filter which has given me an increase in oil pressure on my cars, and all others I have installed as well. "

 

[DCVING 6]

The hole for the turbo oil return was drilled and tapped in the front of the block.

Any reason you didn't just run a braided line down to the oil pan?

 

[earlbrown]

It's actually a VERY tight fit. I did that on my 4.1. The line has to thread between the oil pump, block and motor mount and still clear the through bolt that locks the motor mounts together.

http://www.turbobuicks.com/forums/791081-post28.html

 

[Mike Licht]

I started this not to build the ultimate 4.1 but just a good street motor that the average guy could build himself without breaking the bank. I figures I have built an awful lot of these motors over the years and maybe someone could pick up a tip or trick to make their build easier, better, more cost effective or all of above.

 

[Mike Licht]

Any reason you didn't just run a braided line down to the oil pan?

I have a factory drain hose along with a drill and tap. Honestly raining into the pan is likely better since it keeps the oil off the cam and crank which will reduce windage losses. You do need to put a baffle on the inside of the pan to direct the oil down and not into the rotating assembly. This was just cleaner for this car.

 

[Mike Licht]

Contrary to popular belief, the critical clearance in a Buick oil pump is not between the gears and the flat plate mounting surface, but it is the clearance between the walls of the pocket and the gears. This is where the oil pressure is developed.

The factory spec for plate clearance is .002"-.007", and even on the loose side, we always have good oil pressure.

A little know fact in the turbo world is the Buick V-8's used a very similar oil pump, in fact the Buick 350 V-8 pump is identical.

In the early '80's when many Buick 455 parts had been discontinued, Mike at TA redesigned and built a new timing cover for the 455 and incorporated many improvements after working with some of the original Buick engineers, and ended up with a superior product.

One of the MAJOR difference between the new TA V-6 timing cover and an original factory cover is the tolerances in the pocket, and of course passages were also changed and improved for better flow as well as increased pressure.

Our experience is that any booster plate in not needed if all else is proper and in good shape. Since the extra gasket is a potential leak, and have replaced many on GN's, I personally do not use them.

When we build a $10-15K engine for a customer, they almost always opt to spend a few more dollars on the "heart" of the beast with a new cover!

Thanks for the input Nick, I am sure the TA cover is a great product but I am trying to create a thread here about what I am building for myself, how guys can do some of this work on their own.

 

[Mike Licht]

This thread veered hard off course

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

Sure did I am going to steer it back, thanks for noticing!

 

[Mike Licht]

Here is an update, the pistons have arrived and look great, we decided to do the stock stroke steel crank for this motor we are using a GN1 performance unit. The block work is done and the balance will be done in a couple days. I will take pictures of everything then and post them and we will get the assembly started which will be documented here as well. then we will see how it runs once we get it in the car. Thanks for reading along hope someone gets something useful from this thread

 

[Mike Licht]

Here is an update, the pistons have arrived and look great, we decided to do the stock stroke steel crank for this motor we are using a GN1 performance unit. The block work is done and the balance will be done in a couple days. I will take pictures of everything then and post them and we will get the assembly started which will be documented here as well. then we will see how it runs once we get it in the car. Thanks for reading along hope someone gets something useful from this thread

 

[VIN7]

Very cool Mike! Will you be documenting clearances and measurements along the way?

 

[Mike Licht]

That was my plan but time is getting short I have to measure anyway so I will post them but not sure how in depth I can get there with pictures and things. I want to start driving this thing and there is a couple events coming up I want to go to

 

[earlbrown]

build threads are a lot harder to make than it seems, aren't they?

Here's one I did with my 4.1 and I must have left out 80% of it...
http://www.turbobuicks.com/forums/buick-v6-turbo-tech/88129-day-life-earl.html

 

[Big Turbo Scott]

Mike, At a 4" bore, what is the remaining cylinder wall thickness? At what thickness is the wall too thin?

 

[Mike Licht]

This block was still over .180" at the thin spot after boring, it was sonic tested before we started. I took this one to 4.005 I don't see any problem there I would not go a bunch more. it still has a little left in it I saw stage 1 blocks that were that thin from the start.

 

[thadeal4real]

I'm going to chime in how cheap are the parts and what is actual list of the labor price breakdown please? ??

 

[thadeal4real]

Ps I was subscribed from page 1

 

[Mike Licht]

I will put a price down in the end and a break down of what is in this motor

 

[Mike Licht]

making work done short block ready to assemble teaser pic, wrenches start turning this weekend

 

[MQTGN]

Subscribed - love my 4.1!

 

[Mike Licht]

So I stated some assembly first thing we did was take a drill and drill out a thread or two from the head bolt holes to get them away from the deck. The 86/87 blocks have recessed threads to help prevent deck cracking we car going to borrow a page from their book and do something like that. By drilling out a could threads and chamfering the bolt holes we minimize the chance of a cracked deck. A hand drill with a drill stop is all you need.